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1954 Allis Chalmers won't stay running
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cabinfourus View Drop Down
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Joined: 03 Jun 2025
Location: Asheville, NC
Points: 26 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cabinfourus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 1954 Allis Chalmers won't stay running
    Posted: 8 hours 48 minutes ago at 8:30am
Hello again, 
I am (still) working on a 54 Allis Chalmers G tractor for my 83-year-old neighbor. So far, it has been a nightmare, but it is coming around. 

BACKGROUND:
The owner had the engine overhauled two years ago. When he got the G home, it ran for about 30 minutes and died. It would start back up, but die after a few minutes. His son, who knows nothing about four-stroke engines, worked on it and made things worse. After his son gave up, the tractor would not run at all.

MY REPAIRS:
I found that his son had wired the engine backwards. He had even wired the coil backwards. After I got the tractor running again, it would run for 8–10 minutes on a cold start, before stalling out. After the engine is warm, it will only run for 1–2 minutes. 

PARTS REPLACED:
Fuel tank, fuel line, starter motor, battery, carburetor, sediment bowl, coil (internal resister), condenser, points, wiring harness, plug wires, plugs, and cut off switch. 

PARTS REPLACED TWICE:
Rebuilt carburetor, coil (internal resister), points, condenser, carburetor main jet, and plugs. 

DIAGNOSTICS:
I put a spark tester inline and watched the spark on first start up. When the engine died, the spark was okay. I removed the fuel line from the carburetor and the fuel supply was good. I checked the timing of the engine, and it was dead on. I checked the points gap, and it was good at .020

THINGS TO KNOW:
This tractor has seen many mechanics. Someone replaced the cut-off switch with a household light switch. I rebuild the wiring harness with all new wire, due to a ground problem at the starter. It has been converted to 12v, and is why I used a coil with the internal resister. The problem seems to be heat related. The 12v alternator is not charging. I did replace the condenser with a capacitor, just to see, but it didn't help. 

Guys, I am stumped! I am a retired dealership technician with 35 years of line work under my belt. Never have I given up on a repair, but this thing has been a nightmare. I am open to any and all suggestions, and will report back when I find a repair that works. 

Thanks for allowing me to request help on your forums, and I hope you all have a great week. 
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 87853 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 8 hours 34 minutes ago at 8:44am
sounds like your a good mechanic and you know what the problelms are.. You need gas and spark to run and you know that... That narrows it down to fuel flow and spark... You have done the carburetor multiple times and the coil  / condenser multiple times.. If it has good spark when it gets hot and shuts off, the only things i can think of are fuel line getting hot and vaporize, or spark plugs breaking down when hot, ( but you think both of those have been verified ??) etc.. another possibility is never reject the possibility that the CONDENSER is bad... even 1-2 new ones are not a guarantee that they are GOOD ( when they get hot)..  NEW 12v coils normally are good to go.. I never got a NEW COIL that didnt work when hot.

and as gas leaves the fuel tank and goes to the carb, you need makeup air to enter the tank. Make sure the tank is vented with the cap. and NOTHING is floating around in the tank that can block the outlet.


Edited by steve(ill) - 8 hours 30 minutes ago at 8:48am
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Les Kerf View Drop Down
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Joined: 08 May 2020
Location: Idaho
Points: 1295 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 7 hours 30 minutes ago at 9:48am
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

...
and as gas leaves the fuel tank and goes to the carb, you need makeup air to enter the tank. Make sure the tank is vented with the cap. and NOTHING is floating around in the tank that can block the outlet.

Yup.
I have had both of those problems more than once Confused
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mdm1 View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Onalaska, WI
Points: 2678 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mdm1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 4 hours 30 minutes ago at 12:48pm
Try running it with air filter tube disconnected from the carb.
Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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Gary View Drop Down
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Peterborough,On
Points: 5900 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 37 minutes ago at 4:41pm

Luckily MD has hit on the third thing that is required for an engine to run, and that is Air to have Oxygen.

Air is one of the 3 standard requirements to sustain a FIRE.

Verify that Air is getting through the Air Cleaner and in to the Carb to mix with the Fuel.

G
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