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Jay Tee 
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 Topic: Fixing up my Allis B
Posted: 16 Oct 2025 at 7:48pm |
It's charging! I had to tap on the regulator to get it to start doing its thing, but it's doing its job mow.
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 12 Oct 2025 at 9:25pm |
Finally got some time to spend on the Allis B - so I worked on the wiring Here's the harness being laid out
After laying it out I covered it with split loom and two layers of Scotch 33. I forgot that the wiring loom is run under a cover in the tool box, so the location here would have required a hole cut into that. The regulator is now inside the tool box, using the same holes the previous installer had used to mount it to the outside.
Finally here's a start on wiring the generator
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 12 Aug 2025 at 8:15pm |
Small job - Installed the shutters, bent up a bit of 5/16" threaded rod, added a hardware store spring, a shutter crank I found online and a lot of grease. Next maybe fit the grille...
Edited by Jay Tee - 12 Aug 2025 at 8:20pm
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 07 Aug 2025 at 8:02pm |
 steve(ill) wrote:
original gear lube was not much better than tar.... and let it set for 60 years and it REALLY looks like tar.. I normally use 80-90 wt... some guys use heavier... some have tried the newer HY-Trans type oils... ( not me !!) |
I'm using 80W-90 in the final drive housings and UTF in the transmission itself. Things in there looked pretty good once I flushed out all the water and goo with about $10 worth of diesel. It runs reasonably quietly with the UTF - I will see how things go and may replace it with 80W-90 later.
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 07 Aug 2025 at 7:52pm |
This goobered up steering arm made me sad.
I happened on a good one and immediately installed it once it got here. Now I'm not so sad!
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 07 Aug 2025 at 7:47pm |
Sugarmaker wrote:
Jay Tee, Nice documentation on your work with the B! Good looking tractor that you have made many positive improvements in too. I will be watching the set up ( throttle linkage ) on our CA when we get to that point. What plans do you have for the B? the sickle bar would work good for mowing ditches. Regards, Chris and Cheryl |
Actually we were looking for a sickle bar mower for the Kubota, but then this B came up on Marketplace for less that a three-point project mower. We both kind of missed the old CA, so we brought this one home. My plan is to get it and the mower that's on it into good enough shape for regular use. I'm planning to keep it in its working clothes, although my wife thinks it could really use a nice paint job (uff da).
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 07 Aug 2025 at 6:35am |
Jay Tee, Nice documentation on your work with the B! Good looking tractor that you have made many positive improvements in too. I will be watching the set up ( throttle linkage ) on our CA when we get to that point. What plans do you have for the B? the sickle bar would work good for mowing ditches. Regards, Chris and Cheryl
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 06 Aug 2025 at 9:41pm |
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original gear lube was not much better than tar.... and let it set for 60 years and it REALLY looks like tar.. I normally use 80-90 wt... some guys use heavier... some have tried the newer HY-Trans type oils... ( not me !!)
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 06 Aug 2025 at 7:26pm |
Changed the watery oil in the transmission and dropped the pans on both final drives. Looks more like tar in there!
And cleaned up with new cork gaskets cut
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 06 Aug 2025 at 7:19pm |
steve(ill) wrote:
that last sentence about having slight tension on the governor spring when the throttle lever is in the LO IDLE positon .... i have fixed that by loosening the square set screw on the LEVER and sliding the throttle rod in or out 1/8 inch.... You would be suprised now much effect, 1/16 inch will make in the carburetor rod or the throttle rod... |
You can say that again! I assumed that the settings were copacetic since nothing looked *too* far out of adjustment. Little did I know that these adjustments are far more critical than they are on small single-cylinder engines as found on garden tractors and lawn mowers. I've prudently kept my mitts out of the governor in my big Kubota (my other favorite orange tractor) because it just works and it's buried in the high pressure pump.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 05 Aug 2025 at 1:28pm |
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that last sentence about having slight tension on the governor spring when the throttle lever is in the LO IDLE positon .... i have fixed that by loosening the square set screw on the LEVER and sliding the throttle rod in or out 1/8 inch.... You would be suprised now much effect, 1/16 inch will make in the carburetor rod or the throttle rod...
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 05 Aug 2025 at 1:15pm |
This is from the 1960 issue of the Allis Chalmers Shop Manual produced by Technical Publications Inc. and available in several places online. You can see clearly it's for the B-C-CA-RC engine - not the WC-WD engine. Also it says the carburetor connecting rod should be 1/32" longer than necessary.
This next one is from another AC shop manual - the provenance is unknown, but it does seem to originate with AC themselves - this is the correct instruction. Confusing, no?
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PaulB
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Posted: 04 Aug 2025 at 5:50pm |
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On the whole the I&T (BUT FIRST) manuals should be trashed as much of the information is very general and not as specific as really needed. When in doubt go with what the OEM engineers published.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 04 Aug 2025 at 4:33pm |
PaulB wrote:
All small engine need to have the carburetor rod just a bit too short...
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Well, I do believe that to be true, but I have two manuals that are indeed contradictory.
This first screen shot is from the I&T manual which is known to be unreliable; however, not everyone is aware of that.
This second screen shot is from another manual, possibly an official version?
I have been able to glean useful information from both manuals as sometimes one gives a more thorough explanation than the other.
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PaulB
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Posted: 04 Aug 2025 at 1:01pm |
All small engine need to have the carburetor rod just a bit too short. All the Large (201-226) engines need to have the rod just a bit too long. This is the discrepancy you are seeing and not fully grasping.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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CA13414
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Posted: 03 Aug 2025 at 8:16pm |
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Awesome job!
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Helping the aged survive and thrive! 1953 CA
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 03 Aug 2025 at 7:51pm |
Except one factory manual says to bend the cross arm to shorten the carburetor rod, while another manual from a different year says bend the cross arm to lengthen the carburetor rod - the typos get confusing some times. Anyway - it's running and moving on its own now without any fuss.
Edited by Jay Tee - 03 Aug 2025 at 7:52pm
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PaulB
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Posted: 03 Aug 2025 at 7:09pm |
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They wrote service manual for a reason. When you do what they tell you, things operate soooo much better.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 03 Aug 2025 at 12:16pm |
You guys were right! The governor cross arm was pulling too hard on the rod to the carburetor. Once I bent the arm back towards the carburetor by a little over 1/16" it started working perfectly. I'm guessing this was the governor from the original engine that was slapped onto this one without adjustment. Next job is to get the shutters back on and button up the engine cover. Then it's on to the hydraulic rams, which are stuck.
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Straanger
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Posted: 03 Aug 2025 at 11:55am |
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Could this be a gen-set governor instead of a tractor governor?
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 03 Aug 2025 at 7:57am |
its possible that the rod from the throttle lever by the steering column, to the governor arm is the wrong length.. Lever should go from LO ( back) to HI RPM ( forward) and you see the spring loaded arm on the governor move... spring starts out loose, then stretches and pulls the cross over arm as you go to HI RPM......
you might try to loosen the set screw on the throttle lever and pull the small rod out 1/8 - 1/4 inch and try that... then looosen and put it in 1/8 to 1/4 inch from Original position and see if either of those changes things for the better... fine tune from there..... assuming you have the RIGHT SPRING on the gov and not just a hardware store replacement.
Edited by steve(ill) - 03 Aug 2025 at 7:58am
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 02 Aug 2025 at 11:03pm |
I double-checked the relationship between the governor cross arm and carburetor throttle rod, and it was within the 1/32" to 1/16" preload figure the manual specifies. I guess the idea is that the governor spring should pull the throttle lever to WOT just a hair before it runs into its own stop.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 02 Aug 2025 at 7:42pm |
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set the hand throttle lever WIDE OPEN ( forward)... go to the front left side of the engine and pull the pin out of the carburetor rod to the governor cross arm..... pull the carb rod FORWARD to the wide open position... see if the hole and pin align... if not, bend the cross over arm until the hole and pin align.... Make sure the cross over arm is not dragging on the thermostat housing..... make sure the carburetor lever on the shaft is not dragging the engine block..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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PaulB
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Posted: 02 Aug 2025 at 7:34pm |
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These engines are extremely sensitive to having the cross arm adjust correctly as instructed in the service manual. Also if the butterfly is lose to the throttle shaft or the arm on the throttle shaft is lose they could also give you problems. I'm not there looking at it so I can only throw darts in the dark.
Edited by PaulB - 02 Aug 2025 at 8:00pm
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 02 Aug 2025 at 2:32pm |
Here's the governor itself - looks OK to me!
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 02 Aug 2025 at 2:24pm |
The tractor is mostly back together and it runs pretty nicely except I cannot figure out why the governor goes from idle to pretty much full speed with very little in between. All the linkages are free and greased. The governor doesn't show any signs of sticking or heavy wear and the bearing is installed correctly. Is it because this engine didn't start life as a tractor engine and it really wasn't supposed to have more than one speed?
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 13 Jul 2025 at 7:41pm |
Had a little bit of time to make a magneto clamp out of 1" flat stock
Edited by Jay Tee - 13 Jul 2025 at 7:44pm
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 07 Jul 2025 at 6:51pm |
Removed the front end since the pivot bolt head blocked the pan just enough.
And the pile of parts is getting bigger.
Edited by Jay Tee - 07 Jul 2025 at 6:51pm
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 06 Jul 2025 at 7:02pm |
I was fitting the magneto I got from Phil48ACWC when I noticed the crank had a lot more end play than the 1-5 thousands specified by the book. More like 1/32". I dropped the oil pan, removed the main caps and took a look at the crank, which seems fine to me. Although there was some goo in the pan and the remains of the thrust bearings, everything looks pretty good in there as well. So I'm thinking I might get away with just replacing the bearings.
The only marking on the bearings I see is a script FM with 2 51 underneath that. This makes me think this is a stock crank since I don't see the usual 010, 020 etc. stamps in undersized bearings. Is this assumption correct?
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Phil48ACWC
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Posted: 19 Jun 2025 at 5:19am |
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I have a good hot spark FMJ Magneto if your interested. It came off my WC and has been totally gone through. Works great. $100 plus shipping.
Edited by Phil48ACWC - 19 Jun 2025 at 5:20am
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