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Straight 40 weight in a Model 'B'

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resurrection20 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote resurrection20 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Straight 40 weight in a Model 'B'
    Posted: 29 May 2025 at 11:49am
Thought I'd see if I can become the pariah of the day on here. ;)

I've had recommended to me recently by some other B, C, and CA owners to move up to a straight 40 weight if your engine is a little clanky, like mine is. Right now I have straight 30 weight in it. Oil pressure starts out great in the middle of the gauge, but eventually peters down to the "low" side after it's fully warmed up and hovers right on the line between "low" and "normal." It is an aftermarket gauge. My old one always read higher and had numbers, but something blew out inside it and oil filled up the inside of the gauge, so I got a new one from Steven's Lake Parts and it's always read lower, which makes me think it's one of those automobile ones that's meant for higher PSI (30+) cars that just has an "Allis-Chalmers" plate stuck in it for looks.

Regardless of whether I have a dud of a gauge, is it crazy to use Straight 40W in the shoulder seasons and summer when it's above 60 degrees F? Want to add that part that I understand winter multigrade oils and how much damage you can do using a straight weight oil below 32F, lol. 

Alright! Commence keyboard flogging!
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Lars(wi) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lars(wi) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2025 at 1:25pm
No flogging from me, we ran straight 30w on the farm well after multi-grades were on the market.
If I went back farming, I would use straight 30w. We would change to multi-grade only after fall tillage was done, switch back in the spring before heading back into field work.
I have heard all the song and dance on how multi-grades a far better than decades ago, yes that’s true but, 30w engine oil is also far better than decades ago.

Edited by Lars(wi) - 29 May 2025 at 1:26pm
I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2025 at 2:27pm
I would consider 15w-40. I've known people running this weight in trucks that has oil consumption issues.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2025 at 2:30pm
I'm not a B-C-CA kind of guy. I do know the connecting rod bearings are basically splashed lubed by the camshaft having a small orifice hole that lines up with the connecting rod bearing oil hole when they are at their closest point in rotation. You don't have a clue how many psi of oil pressure you have.  10-12 psi on one of those engines is adequate. 40 wt really doesn't lube as well as 20 weight does. Try and squirt 40 wt into the rod bearing oil hole. Get a gauge that isn't over 40 psi and see what you actually have. If it is a bad oil burner?? then maybe you could convince me to try 40 weight.

Edited by DrAllis - 29 May 2025 at 2:41pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2025 at 4:04pm
Dr. is right.. this is a BYPASS SYSTEM.. 15% of the oil goes to the gauge, thru the filter and dumps back to sump.... The PRESSURE reading is due to the filter RESTRICTION... 85% of the PUMP OIL goes down thru the hollow cam shaft and thru ports to the main bearings, and thru orifices that spray the oil out of the cam toward the pistons / rods.

15 psi is NORMAL at high idle if the engine is in good shape and filter is good.. Pressure with a NEW filter might be a couple psi low untill the filter becomes soaked, and gets some BACK PRESSURE.... The filter and the 1/4 inch tube inside it are what causes the BACK PRESSURE on the gauge.... thinner weight oil could actually be pumped thru the orifices easiler and get you BETTER FLOW to the bearings and spray at the piston wrist pins..

Heavier oil will cause more back pressure in the filter and make the PSI reading go up.. It should also cause higher viscosity in the 85% of the oil going to the engine bearings / pistons... That might not get you MORE OIL, due to the THICKER VISCOSITY....

I would prefer a 10w- 40 of 15w- 40 oil if you think the 30wt is too thin.

I have seen more that one B engine that  runs fine with 10 psi at high idle and 5 psi a low idle..... when you loose pressure on a B-C engine, its normally due to oil pump wear on the end covers... Too much thrust clearance and your loosing efficiency.


Edited by steve(ill) - 29 May 2025 at 4:12pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2025 at 5:14pm
If I were planning to run one of these engines hard for long periods of time in 80+ degree weather doing something silly like plowing for 8 hours straight then I would probably run straight 40 Wt HD diesel oil. For the light duty putt-putting for which I actually use my Model C tractor I use only 10W-30 in the summer and 5W-30 in the winter. My engine sees lots of short runs and I want that oil to get circulating as soon as possible.

As mentioned above, these engines use a bypass-type oil filter. If you want to see higher oil pressure, don't change the filter. Did you know that filters actually do a better job of filtering after they start to get a bit dirty? As long as the filter continues to get warm you know that oil is still flowing through it and it is doing its job.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2025 at 5:29pm
Correct.. An OLD or PARTIALY PLUGGED filter will restrict the 15% of oil dumped back to sump.. Pressure on the gauge will go up and more of the oil will go with the 85% that goes to engine Lube..
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2025 at 6:43pm
The CA is my favorite Allis Chalmers tractor. Take everyones advise for what you paid for it. It's your tractor, do whatever you feel is right.
  To properly understand motor oil viscosity labeling, Be aware the _ _W number it what it will flow like when it's cold and the other number it what it flows like when it's hot. 
Soooo with a straight 40 weight oil you get the cold and hot properties that a 40 weight oil specifies. At cold temperatures 40 weight will flow very sluggish and since about 90% of engine wear is from start up until it reaches operating temperature. Do you want to add to an already worn out engine?
  Granted a 40 weight oil will help with a rattling lower end, However the best thing would be drop the oil pan and take out a couple of shims from the rod bearings. Short of that try a 10W40 or 15W40. I personally use 15W40 in everything I have, makes it simple, 1 oil for everything.


Edited by PaulB - 29 May 2025 at 6:45pm
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote resurrection20 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2025 at 7:32pm
My takeaway is that at best it's a waste of time and at worst it will cause unnecessary wear.

My tractor doesn't use any oil. I don't run it all that much, to be honest. Maybe 5-10 hours a year.

Thanks for your responses everyone. Now I'm wondering what straight 40 wt was designed for.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2025 at 8:07pm
Originally posted by resurrection20 resurrection20 wrote:

... Now I'm wondering what straight 40 wt was designed for.

It's for extreme conditions such as "planning to run one of these engines hard for long periods of time in 80+ degree weather doing something silly like plowing for 8 hours straight". Big smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote resurrection20 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2025 at 11:00pm
Originally posted by Les Kerf Les Kerf wrote:

Originally posted by resurrection20 resurrection20 wrote:

... Now I'm wondering what straight 40 wt was designed for.

It's for extreme conditions such as "planning to run one of these engines hard for long periods of time in 80+ degree weather doing something silly like plowing for 8 hours straight". Big smile


Once upon a time, that wasn't so silly, right? Also, I went down the rabbit hole of learning about Detroit 2-stroke diesels and now I want one- they use straight 40 weight.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HudCo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2025 at 9:32am
look and see if it is pumping it to all the rockers if it is it should be fine on it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ed (Ont) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2025 at 10:21am
I use 15-40 Shell Rotella in my WD45 all year round. Starts well even in real cold weather. Good oil pressure. I know it is a different motor! 😀 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2025 at 12:45pm
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

Correct.. An OLD or PARTIALY PLUGGED filter will restrict the 15% of oil dumped back to sump.. Pressure on the gauge will go up and more of the oil will go with the 85% that goes to engine Lube..

Checking math……
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2025 at 1:11pm
Detroit only went to 40W after the emissions crap got crazy. Used straight 30 before that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2025 at 2:00pm
I'm remembering Detroit going to SAE 40 weight oil in the "92" series that had turbochargers added on top of the superchargers. More HP per cubic inch and main and rod bearings maybe not as big as they should have been for the power produced.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 55allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2025 at 8:55pm
My brother runs JD 15w40 in his ca and I’ll run JD 15w40 in my wd but we both don’t use them much in the winter.
1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD45
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2025 at 9:10pm
15w 40 is fine for about any engine... 10w40 or 10w30 is also good... Its the STRAIGHT 40wt that would be a BAD IDEA.... especially in the winter.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 12:11am
I don't know anything significant from hands-on with the Screamin' Jimmy, but the Long Island Railroad's railcar fleet prior to my arrival on the Kawasaki/EMD joint venture's trainset appearing had power units under the floor of many older passenger railcars where hotel electric power and I THINK compressors for HVAC were powered by 3-53's in a basically 'flat' orientation.  They had to run very thick oil in those because, even without any significant wear, they tended to pass significant oil into the cylinders, which the Jimmy would very enthusiastically burn even with the fuel rack pulled back.
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigal121892 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 hours 60 minutes ago at 8:55am
Originally posted by DaveKamp DaveKamp wrote:

Jimmy would very enthusiastically burn even with the fuel rack pulled back.


I can still remember the first time I had a 6-71 run away from me on an oil burn, scared the crap out of me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 hours 57 minutes ago at 9:58am
Originally posted by bigal121892 bigal121892 wrote:

Originally posted by DaveKamp DaveKamp wrote:

Jimmy would very enthusiastically burn even with the fuel rack pulled back.


I can still remember the first time I had a 6-71 run away from me on an oil burn, scared the crap out of me.

You think that's a surprise: once while delivering fuel to a station and a yuppie with his family pulled in to fuel up "daddy's pretty PEV diesel pickup" and left the engine running to run the A/C. Next to him the driver of the car had gone into the store and the filler hose of the car fell out of the car filler neck and continued to flow as the puddle creeped under the front of the pickup the engine. It was hilarious to watch the HORROR on the yuppies face while the diesel pickup quickly rose in speed and continued even after he had jumped in and turned the key off. The Pickup continued to rise in speed until it self destructed in a spectacular fashion. It was worth driving in the DC Metro traffic that night to see that happen. LOLLOLLOL
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ekjdm14 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 hours 44 minutes ago at 11:11am
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

Correct.. An OLD or PARTIALY PLUGGED filter will restrict the 15% of oil dumped back to sump.. Pressure on the gauge will go up and more of the oil will go with the 85% that goes to engine Lube..

Makes me feel a lot better about the filter on my B being likely the original lol 

Not that it means anything because my engine is a hodgepodge of worn out, incorrect and random homebrew parts but I'm running 10w/40 and the original gauge reads about halfway (top of r on "normal") when cool, drops to middle of the "o" hot low idle.

Considering it's a bypass filter I'd rather have more oil getting to the bottom end & just change it regular, if it was a bottom end I knew was great though I'd get a new filter.
Stuck Farmer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ekjdm14 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 hours 39 minutes ago at 11:16am
Originally posted by PaulB PaulB wrote:

Originally posted by bigal121892 bigal121892 wrote:

Originally posted by DaveKamp DaveKamp wrote:

Jimmy would very enthusiastically burn even with the fuel rack pulled back.


I can still remember the first time I had a 6-71 run away from me on an oil burn, scared the crap out of me.

You think that's a surprise: once while delivering fuel to a station and a yuppie with his family pulled in to fuel up "daddy's pretty PEV diesel pickup" and left the engine running to run the A/C. Next to him the driver of the car had gone into the store and the filler hose of the car fell out of the car filler neck and continued to flow as the puddle creeped under the front of the pickup the engine. It was hilarious to watch the HORROR on the yuppies face while the diesel pickup quickly rose in speed and continued even after he had jumped in and turned the key off. The Pickup continued to rise in speed until it self destructed in a spectacular fashion. It was worth driving in the DC Metro traffic that night to see that happen. LOLLOLLOL

Haha that's one of those things you wish youtube & camera phones had been around!  Kinda similar to why any diesel, let alone a jimmy, has a shutdown flapper in mining applications where natural gas concentration may be an issue.
Stuck Farmer
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