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Allis b 6v starter switch

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Brinky View Drop Down
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Joined: 30 Aug 2024
Location: Uk
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    Posted: Yesterday at 10:00am
Hi, I’m still having starter trouble. All I have is a starter and 6v battery, no other electrics. The switch on the starter operated by a lever keeps burning the contact, then the starter doesn’t turn. I know I can change the contact to a stud, but then I’m not sure on the best way to switch the starter. Has anyone else done this ?
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Alberta Phil View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alberta Phil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 hours 3 minutes ago at 12:52pm
That switch can be removed and the internal copper contacts cleaned up to make a more positive contact with each other, if they are not too badly worn.  If it's a new replacement switch, it may have brass contacts inside which arc and burn much more readily than the original copper ones.  I have had not much luck with those modern replacements.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HoughMade Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 hours 13 minutes ago at 1:42pm
I took the switch/plunger off of mine and worked on the contacts on both sides with a file until they would make full contact across the whole width.  No problems since. 
1951 B
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brinky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 hours 55 minutes ago at 2:00pm
The starter came with a switch, which was arcing , so I bought a replacement which arced even more, I have taken them both off several times and filled the switch and contact. Works briefly then burns again
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JoeM(GA) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeM(GA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 hours 37 minutes ago at 2:18pm
look at your arc marks on the contact of the switch, it may only be touching on the very edges, it may need a tad of shaping. These starters have seen many years of use, the pad on the starter may be due for a change out.
Allis Express North Georgia
41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's,
Ford 345C TLB
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If you decide to eliminate the present push switch and put a STUD on the starter... Then you buy a SOLENOID and mount it between the battery and the starter... BIG wire to the solenoid.. BIG wire fromt  the solenoid to the starter... SMALL power wire to a BUTTON or KEY... and then a small wire from the BUTTON to the solenoid.. Small wire carries a little current the pulls in the SOLENOID and it powers the starter..

Here is a portion of a diagram that shows the battery, starter, solenoid and a key ( or button)... 12 or 6 volt, pos or neg makes no difference.


Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Steve in NJ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 hours 40 minutes ago at 10:15pm
If you have a local rebuilder in town, take the Starter motor to him and have him change the Starter over to a stud, and while he has it, have him run through the Starter motor to make sure all components inside are in good working order.  Have him inspect the Armature and put it through some tests to make sure its good. Have him also fix you up with a Starter Solenoid and your problem is solved. Those silly switches were the worst. As time progressed, the Starter motors started failing because of the king size voltage drop at that switch. Eventually, the Armature is toast. I've done a ton of em' over the years for my customer's. BTW, since you have a B, I always tell my customer's to mount the Starter Solenoid inside the toolbox out of the elements. My B has been like that for years. Starts every time....
Steve@B&B
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Brinky View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brinky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 hours 33 minutes ago at 12:22am
Thanks for the reply’s, unfortunately where I am in the UK, all the older generation that used to repair this type of thing have retired.. it also seems difficult to find a suitable 6v solenoid, will any 6v solenoid be suitable or do I need to look for a minimum rating ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeM(GA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 6 hours 8 minutes ago at 5:47am
Paul, this might be a great time to reach out to another “across the pond friend “ Mark Everett, he is quite knowledgeable on Allis and a very nice person 

Allis Express North Georgia
41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's,
Ford 345C TLB
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 5 hours 47 minutes ago at 6:08am
those contacts need to be perfectly clean( no pits or crates ) AND perfectly flat ( parallel to each other)
this allows all the current thought them an minimizes arcing ( which is bad)
on 'trick', after contacts have been refurbished is to QUICKLY engage the switch and LEAVE it 'on' until engine starts or 'time runs out'(10-20 seconds).
Those contacts arc EVERY time they connect AND disconnect.
On my CA, I think I turned the 'bar' upside down to get 'fresh' copper.
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 4 hours 29 minutes ago at 7:26am
will any 6v solenoid be suitable or do I need to look for a minimum rating ?

dont use one made for a riding lawn mower... but any 6v solenoid made for a CAR or TRUCK ( engine in the 125 cubic inch or bigger) should be fine..
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 4 hours 23 minutes ago at 7:32am
i havae a couple B tractors that i have MODIFIED with a starter solenoid.. I left the original starter switch on the tractor and made a little wedge and set screw thah holds the switch CLOSED all the time. That way it can not arc.. I have a solenoid and run the BIG CABLE from it to the original terminal on the original switch.. Didnt have to install the STUD by doing this.............. but i also use a 12v battery so the AMPS are much lower than on the 6v system..... that is a possibility for YOU , switch to a 12v system and should be a lot less LOAD on your starter switch.

Edited by steve(ill) - 4 hours 20 minutes ago at 7:35am
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 3 hours 52 minutes ago at 8:03am
if running 6 volts, be sure solenoid is rated for 400 amps !
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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