Modle D Grader engine support

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   ALMOST ready to fire up my 1953 Model D grader.  Axle is repaired, just waiting for new drive chain. D17 engine is installed, need help with the front motor mount. When they put in the D15 diesel they discarded the motor mount, now I need one.  I assume the block (70065842 parts 9 and 10 page 134) serves some purpose in the alignment of the engine, but then the 1949 WD tractor I took the engine out of did not have one. Does anyone have the measurements of the block or know the height above the crossmember the engine should be?.Is the support block cast or machined?  Would a block made from White Oak work?  Thanks for your help, again.

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newbe2 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 16 Jan 2024 Location: California Points: 46	Post Options Post Reply Quote newbe2 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Modle D Grader engine support Posted: 02 Jan 2025 at 11:26am
	ALMOST ready to fire up my 1953 Model D grader. Axle is repaired, just waiting for new drive chain. D17 engine is installed, need help with the front motor mount. When they put in the D15 diesel they discarded the motor mount, now I need one. I assume the block (70065842 parts 9 and 10 page 134) serves some purpose in the alignment of the engine, but then the 1949 WD tractor I took the engine out of did not have one. Does anyone have the measurements of the block or know the height above the crossmember the engine should be?.Is the support block cast or machined? Would a block made from White Oak work? Thanks for your help, again.

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ac fleet Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Jan 2014 Location: Arrowsmith, ILL Points: 2321	Post Options Post Reply Quote ac fleet Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 03 Jan 2025 at 10:24am
	all mine has is an angle iron across the frame under the front of the motor like the wc, wd, wd-45, etc has and bolts down the same way.
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DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20802	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 03 Jan 2025 at 6:02pm
	2" or 2 1/2" angle iron 3/8" thick works just fine.

im4racin Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Jun 2017 Location: Garrison ND Points: 967	Post Options Post Reply Quote im4racin Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 03 Jan 2025 at 6:44pm
	That shouldn’t have a spacer. The trans will tip to the rear to let the engine settle on the angle iron cross member

Dave Richards (WV) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Fairmont, WV Points: 881	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dave Richards (WV) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Jan 2025 at 3:34pm
	I think you have us confused. Do you Have a D17 engine or a Wd Engine? Do you need both Part 9 and 10 or just 10? Part 10 is the engine mounting block and it is machined. It is about 2 inches tall so I would not mount the engine directly on the cross member which is the angle iron. The parts book lists shims so I imagine the dimension is important. I am not at the farm now but can measure it next week if you still need it. Oak would work initially but will degrade with time. Short pieces of steel pipe would work better until you get a block made. Mine is a 59 model with the D17 engine. The 53 with a WD Engine may be different but the parts manual makes no distinction. Edited by Dave Richards (WV) - 06 Jan 2025 at 3:44pm

newbe2 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 16 Jan 2024 Location: California Points: 46	Post Options Post Reply Quote newbe2 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Jan 2025 at 7:48pm
	Thank you Dave. I have a D17 engine in a 1953 wd grader, that had a D15 diesel in it when I acquired it. Long painful story, hopefully with a happy ending. My engine holds off the bell housing connection at 2.375+-" above the angle iron cross member. so I know I need something to fill the gap and secure the front of the engine. What I don't know is how critical that dimension is. I assume, from what you told me, about 2"-2.5" seems right as that would fit the purpose for the block and shim shown in the book. It's not a support so much as it is an alignment issue being the weight is totally supported from the bell housing/transmission connection.??? I'm thinking of bolting a 2x2 angle to the bottom of the engine and a 2x2 angle to the cross member then weld them together to fill the gap and hold the front of the engine.

im4racin Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Jun 2017 Location: Garrison ND Points: 967	Post Options Post Reply Quote im4racin Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Jan 2025 at 9:28pm
	Does the engine sit level currently? If not loosen the clamps between the frame and axle pivot. The engine will settle down on the crossmember

newbe2 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 16 Jan 2024 Location: California Points: 46	Post Options Post Reply Quote newbe2 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Jan 2025 at 10:02pm
	thanks Im4racin. The engine looks level, but, I have no idea what they did when the D15 engine was installed. The D15 did not have a bolted front mount it used a ring mount around the crank pully the allowed the front of the engine to float, being held in place only by the bell housing/trans connection. as far as I could tell the crank pully never touched the ring. So I don't know if they adjusted the height by loosening those clamps or if the height is predetermined at the factory. It might be that the shims shown in the book are there to create some sort of preload on the mount.

DonBC Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Courtenay, BC, Points: 928	Post Options Post Reply Quote DonBC Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 6 hours 30 minutes ago at 6:26pm
	The gas engine did not have any support at the fan pulley end. It just hung off the bell housing. My machine was very basic, left and right blade controls and tilting front wheels control. It was set up so the left blade control was on the left of the steering wheel and the right blade control on the right side of the wheel. If you wanted to control both sides of the blade at the same time you had to hold the wheel with? Who created that setup? How had this machine been operated for tens of years set up that way? It took me less than a couple of hours to get both blade controls on the same side of the steering wheel.
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