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Water temp for heated floor.

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scott View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scott Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Water temp for heated floor.
    Posted: 12 hours 20 minutes ago at 8:02am
I have two connected pole barns that share a Navia on demand water heater. One building has an overhead box heater with radiator, fan, and louvers. The other building has tubes in the cement radiant heat.
The floor heat is off. The overhead box has been keeping both shops warm with 150 degree water. Last night it was colder and the OH box didn’t keep up.
What is my more efficient option? I can raise the water temp to the OH box (180?) or drop the water temp so I can run both heaters as the floor can only take 120 or so.

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jaybmiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 hours 38 minutes ago at 8:44am
heat the floor.
hot water heats concrete, huge 'thermal mass' and warm air rises.
it'd be interesting to know what the temp leaving the overhead is.
say 150 going in and 120 coming out.... you could plumb to go IN the floor......
even if 80, I'd still try it......
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DMiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 9 hours 42 minutes ago at 10:40am
140 was the magic number I was explained as to spalling Concrete or causing cracking.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plummerscarin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 8 hours 18 minutes ago at 12:04pm
Were it me, I'd heat the floor. I don't fully understand your set up. Two buildings, connected. A wall separates the 2? No wall? Two heating methods. The floor system operates at a lower temperature but this is a set it forget it method. The overhead blower can operate off a programmable thermostat because it can raise and lower room temperature more quickly. My solution is a mixing valve on the radiant with water and thermostat at a lower temp. Operate the boiler at a higher temperature and a separate thermostat to raise and lower room temperature above fixed radiant temperature as desired.
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DonBC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote DonBC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 7 hours 22 minutes ago at 1:00pm
There are different systems for different purposes. Insulated building with constant use a heated floor works as well as forced air or a furnace.  For an uninsulated building and intermittent use it is best to use radiant heat as it heats the objects (you) quickly.
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tadams(OH) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tadams(OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 5 hours 54 minutes ago at 2:28pm
Heat rises and cold falls, I would keep the floor heated so it doesn't freez the pipes and have fans to circulate the heat from above.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 4 hours 45 minutes ago at 3:37pm
set the boiler at 120 degrees. The floor heat will work great and do 50% of the buildings.. The 120 degree water in the radiator heater for the other building should heat that 50% to an acceptable temp.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 4 hours 30 minutes ago at 3:52pm
hmm. share a Navia on demand water heater.

so WHERE is the thermostat placed ?
when I did remote energy control systems, each building had 'zones'( 1-6 space heaters), with their own thermostats.
In your case, you have two pole barns so two 'zones'...... each should have it's own stat and valving., PLUS the floor... so minimum of 3 zones.
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scott View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scott Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 48 minutes ago at 7:34pm
Ok I need to be more clear. The two buildings have a shared 30 ft wall and a 10x10 door. The old 10’ side, fully insulated, has the overhead box heater.
The 14’ side, also insulated, has the heated floor.
With the door open between the two the overhead heater has been keeping up with both sides until today.
I tried turning up the water temp today but it seems the OH box is struggling to maintain temp.
I am trying to be as efficient as possible. My options appear to be turn the temp up for just the OH box or lower the temp and put on the floor to help the box. The above suggestion of a mixing valve is what I need. The OH box is nice with 172 degree water going in and at that temp the return temp shows 154.
I’ve sat here and decided to drop the WH temp and put the floor on with the thermostat set at 62 and see what that gets me.

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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 34 minutes ago at 7:48pm
  I’ve sat here and decided to drop the WH temp and put the floor on with the thermostat set at 62 and see what that gets me.   Thumbs Up

We dont know the size of the radiator or the size of the fan pushing the air...  Right now you have a drop of 20 degrees ( 170 - 150 ) for the water and your raising the air temp a given amount as it blows over the radiator... It is POSSIBLE that if you set the water at 120 and get the 20 degree drop to 100 degrees, that you will STILL TRANSFER the same amount of heat to the air ... not a guarantee, but very possible not knowing the radiator or fan size... Its not the TEMP, its the DROP across the radiator that counts.. That could be why you see no difference when you raise the water up from 150 degrees... your still getting a 20 degree drop..


Edited by steve(ill) - 22 minutes ago at 8:00pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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