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Codger 
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Location: Illinois
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 Topic: Split my firts D17 Series IV Today:
Posted: 30 Oct 2023 at 5:46pm |
Rear main puking profusely so split her apart. Very recent clutch from someone else so why it wasn't addressed then; I don't know. Now pulling the engine from the front frame as can't seem to get the oil pan removed because of the power steering unit? I'm not doing the actual work but was heavily involved in the split as the mechanic has not done this in the past outside of a community college atmosphere with all proper tooling. He is learning how to adapt to what is available.
I'll post some photos when back together as the owner purchased it new and pretty decent shape yet.
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A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 30 Oct 2023 at 5:53pm |
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Rear main seal on a G-226 gas practically requires removing the crankshaft from the engine block. Not quite, but almost. And yes, pull the front support out so the oil pan can be removed and reinstalled easily.
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Codger
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Posted: 30 Oct 2023 at 6:42pm |
The mechanic is a sharp young guy just out of school and hired on in the lawnmower shop the next to last week of June. Primary lawnmower mechanic that was to train him prior to his retirement at the end of the year didn't wake up the morning of June 30th, so he's been going it alone with some of my limited help. I've been helping him off and on and now with harvest concluding and the three primary AG shop mechanics being gone all day servicing equipment, this young guy is thrust into arenas he's not experienced in. I have absolutely no retail tractor repair experience so something new to me also.
I'll pass along about the crankshaft guidance. I went and dragged the old engine stand and adapters out that was used to work with these when commonplace, so it will get mounted up tomorrow and flipped over to make it easy.
Thanks for the tip!
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A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 30 Oct 2023 at 6:54pm |
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Rear main seal installation and correct oil pan gasket installation is an art !! If it ain't done right, you'll still have a leak. I believe there are some U-tube videos on the matter. Rear seal must be glued into place top and bottom. Oil pan arch gaskets need to be shoved inside a piece of pipe for days to make them take shape. Lots of tricks to help be successful.
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
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Posted: 30 Oct 2023 at 10:22pm |
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Dad had an old pork and bean can in the shop that shaped the corks.
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plummerscarin
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Posted: 31 Oct 2023 at 6:11am |
 SteveM C/IL wrote:
Dad had an old pork and bean can in the shop that shaped the corks. |
Likewise. Would DonMO's video in the knowledge section apply?
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DrAllis
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Posted: 31 Oct 2023 at 6:17am |
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I used to put them inside a piston ring compressor around a can and they'd just sit on the shelf until the next job came along.
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 31 Oct 2023 at 7:07am |
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...always had one in the chamber eh?
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DrAllis
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Posted: 31 Oct 2023 at 7:29am |
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10-4. Always prepared.
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Codger
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Posted: 31 Oct 2023 at 2:58pm |
The owner's second D-17 Series IV tractor is in the main shop also. This one had coolant in the oil and service brakes problem of some sort. After the mechanic removed the cylinder head and was giving it a preliminary lookover, I noticed the block is cracked between the lifter valley and the coolant passage at the rear most cylinder:
Owner wants it fixed so on the hunt for either a block, or complete donor engine.
Anybody have something for sale that could be used?
Thanks,
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A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 31 Oct 2023 at 5:13pm |
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Looks like a scratch to me, not a "crack".
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Codger
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Posted: 31 Oct 2023 at 7:07pm |
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Deck has a bit of shift to it and crack is down into jacket. Easily catches a thumbnail.
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A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
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Allis dave
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Posted: 01 Nov 2023 at 6:37am |
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Check out DonMO's oil pan gasket video in the Knowledgebase section. He explains the rear main very well. I miss Don's posts
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Codger
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Posted: 20 Nov 2023 at 8:27pm |
Old engine removed from chassis:
Donor engine getting ready to be installed shortly:
All new braking system both sides, bands, drums, flanges, etc. Engine was found bad after tearing into rear end which is now back together so starting back on the front of the tractor:
Got a date with the pressure washer tomorrow:
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A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
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Codger
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Posted: 20 Nov 2023 at 8:38pm |
Received a replacement sheave for the other Series IV tractor today.
Took it back to my shop and ran it through the heated parts washer to soften and remove the crud that was built up in, and on it:
It slipped right onto the crankshaft snout after being cleaned up. I did use a stiff brush on the keyway which was crusty but it slipped on with very little effort. I did also chase the 3/8-16 threaded holes in the sheave with a bottoming tap so they are clean and ready for reuse if need be.
Hopefully get this one finished up tomorrow or the next day and sent home. Both of these Series IV tractors are owned by the same family. This one was sold here new.
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A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
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rtwfarm
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Posted: 20 Nov 2023 at 8:41pm |
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Got a series 4 here for parts. 402-469-1738
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Codger
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Posted: 20 Nov 2023 at 9:43pm |
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I'll pass your number to the owners as I'll probably see them in the next couple of days. Don't know if they need anything or not but these tractors still work and earn their keep.
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A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
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Codger
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Posted: 21 Nov 2023 at 2:05pm |
This tractor is the one that had the leaking rear main seal and broken front sheave. It is going back together nicely. All original including paint:
What can be learned from these two serial numbers?
Thanks,
Edited by Codger - 21 Nov 2023 at 2:05pm
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A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 21 Nov 2023 at 2:43pm |
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80082 is a late 1965 build and 84559 is summer/fall of 1966 build. Can you get the original engines s/n for each chassis please ?? behind the carburetor air cleaner hose/tube. 17-XXXXXX-M
Edited by DrAllis - 21 Nov 2023 at 2:46pm
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Codger
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Posted: 21 Nov 2023 at 3:10pm |
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I will be into the dealer tomorrow morning for a Thanksgiving employee breakfast and photo both engines. Although not an employee, I am a family friend and invited to participate in these things.
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A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
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Alex09(WI)
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Posted: 21 Nov 2023 at 6:02pm |
Nice pics! The engine you removed has 4-1/8" M&W pistons, 7.3:1 compression ratio. Replacement engine may be slightly less hp depending on what pistons it has.
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Codger
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Posted: 16 Dec 2023 at 7:10am |
Both D-17 Series IV tractors left yesterday and the owner was very pleased with the work performed on both. Now he no longer has oil leaks in the one tractor, nor a coolant in oil problem with the other.
Kind of expensive when you have to pay a dealership to do the work, but he really didn't have any issues at all with the invoice and is happy to have the tractors back.
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A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
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EPALLIS
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Posted: 17 Dec 2023 at 7:47pm |
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I had to have a split done on my D17 a couple years back. Agreed, it is a little pricey from the dealer. However, soooo nice when it is done! I have really enjoyed the tractor when it is all fixed up. Just enjoy every day of your D17 Series IV's now that they are all fixed up!
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