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D17 Fuel Filter/Pump

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Coljus View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Jul 2010
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coljus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: D17 Fuel Filter/Pump
    Posted: 15 Oct 2010 at 9:18am
All,
My D17 has been struggling lately and I believe it's due to a clogged fuel filter or leaky fuel pump. It could possibly be Ethanol related but I've added fuel stabilizer and I'm still having the problem.
About 3 weeks ago, while mowing, it started "chugging" after 30-45 minutes of mowing... what's weird is it only did this when I pressed in the clutch, either to slow down or change gears, etc...
The chugging would go away once I got going again... but now it's actually chugging to the point that the tractor dies. I can wait 15-20 minutes and start mowing again, but it only lasts 10 minutes or so and then chugs and dies again.
I bought new plugs but haven't had a chance to put them in yet.
I'm in trouble-shooting mode and the plugs are easy and cheap to replace. If that doesn't do the trick, I'll go to the distributor cap, coil, rotor, etc... until I find the problem.
I had someone mention to me that it sounds a like a fuel problem... maybe a leaky fuel pump, a clogged fuel line, etc... so I wanted to run it by you guys to see what you think.
 
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paulinkansas View Drop Down
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Joined: 30 Nov 2009
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote paulinkansas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2010 at 9:23am
My D17 III gas has a gravity feed fuel system.  Perhaps check your sediment bowl and gas pick up line.
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gcalent View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gcalent Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2010 at 9:34am
Check the fuel system for flow from the tank all the way to the carb, sometimes the problem is right at the cut off valve in the bowl, take it apart and look. A D 17 gas doesn`t have a fuel pump in less someone has put a combine engine in it and used the pump that was on them.
Pullin With AC
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Coljus View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coljus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2010 at 9:48am
ok, thanks! I had someone else recommend I check the tank to see if it's clogged... so I'll check that first. Is there a way to check it without taking everything apart?
 
BTW - I'm not 100% sure it's a D17. It's gas, and is right around 32 HP... and this is kind of a silly way to confirm it but I wrote down the ignition system Tractor Supply part numbers (for reference) and they listed the plugs as J8C... which is what's currently installed in my tractor. The other AC models use different plugs... so I'm fairly certain, but not positive, it's a D17.
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paulinkansas View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote paulinkansas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2010 at 9:56am
I'm fairly positive it's not a D17.  You'd be above 50 horsepower to have a D17.  You probably have a WD45 or something like that.  It's the same 226 gas engine, but has less horsepower than the 226 in the D17.
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Coljus View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coljus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2010 at 10:22am
It's a 4 cylinder engine... and on the right side of the block it has the following raised letters:
L19G
 
 
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gcalent View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gcalent Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2010 at 10:57am
Is the seat in the center of the tractor or offset, and do the frame rails stop at the back of the engine or go all the way to the rear axle under the seat? D series tractors, the seat is in the center and the frame stops at the rear of the engine. W series the seat is offset and the frame goes all the way to the rear axle. Not the best way to identify a tractor but will get you in the ball park.
Pullin With AC
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CTuckerNWIL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2010 at 11:00am
Might be the champion plugs. I would toss them and put in a set of AC 45's or Autolite 295's. If your tractor has a fuel filter other than the sediment bowl, I would toss that, get rid of the aftermarket rubber fuel lines and put steel back on like original.
 If you remove the plug in the bottom of the carb. bowl, you can tell in short time if you have sufficient fuel delivered to the carb. It should drain a solid uninterrupted stream.
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Coljus View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coljus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2010 at 11:05am
The seat is in the center and the I bar frame xtends to the back of the tractor.
 
The fuel tank dumps into a sediment bowl (clear plastic part)... so I'll try to clean it out or replace it. I'm having a very difficult time finding parts... especially when I don't know for certain the freaking model tractor I'm driving.
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gcalent View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gcalent Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2010 at 11:30am

I`m guessing from the onfo you gave,it`s a WD, or WD45,it`s not a D series if it has a full length frame front to rear. The normal seat on those is slightly offset to the right side though. Might be time for some photos, if you can`t post them here, send them to me, gcalent@yahoo.com.

Pullin With AC
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mlpankey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2010 at 11:36am
Sounds to me like its still a fuel delivery problem causing the gov to surge which causes the chugging. A lower gear would decrease load on the motor and take less fuel.  Run it at full throttle with a load on it don't let it idle any before shutting it down. then remove the plugs and post pics of the ground strap and porcelain around the electrode . Maybe then I or others could be a more definite help.

Edited by mlpankey - 15 Oct 2010 at 11:40am
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Coljus View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coljus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2010 at 2:31pm
ok, let me 1st make sure I understand what you're saying; so I'm going to run the thing at full bore and then turn it off (with the key vs. throtling down), remove the plugs, and then snap a  pic (of a plug), specifically the electrode?
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Coljus View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coljus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2010 at 2:33pm
GC,
I sent you pics. The email was about 4mb, so I hope I didn't bog you down.
Let me know if you can identify it by the pics. If you can't, please tell me what  else you need and I'll get it for you. And again, THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR ASSISTANCE...
 
Paul
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mlpankey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2010 at 3:05pm
yes thats correct you can throttle back some but dont let it idle.  need to see the plugs on the main jet and not the idle circuit of the carb.

Edited by mlpankey - 15 Oct 2010 at 3:06pm
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