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WD burning out kill switch. |
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exSW
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Joined: 21 Jul 2017 Location: Pennsylvania Points: 914 |
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Topic: WD burning out kill switch.Posted: 05 Nov 2022 at 5:44pm |
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'52 WD with distributor.
Converted to 12v. Still positive ground. Generator puts out 13.6 charging. 12v coil with an in line resistor. Lights work. All wires chased and enclosed in loom. Keeps burning out kill switches.
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MACK
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Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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Posted: 05 Nov 2022 at 8:52pm |
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You say kill switch. It should be a off-on switch with 12v to one side with the other wire going to resister. A kill switch grounds current from mag. MACK
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Steve in NJ
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 12014 |
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Posted: 05 Nov 2022 at 9:04pm |
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I don't know how you have your Tractor wired, but if you're using a toggle type switch for a Ignition kill switch, toggles are only rated at 10-15 amps. Put in a high amp switch like a key switch or push/pull like a Cole Hersee or equivilent. Have the Generator checked at a local shop to see what amperage it's pushing out. If it's pushing some high amperage out of it, that could be why you're cooking switches also.... Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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exSW
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Joined: 21 Jul 2017 Location: Pennsylvania Points: 914 |
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Posted: 05 Nov 2022 at 9:19pm |
That's how it's wired. It is indeed an "on/off" switch.
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exSW
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Posted: 05 Nov 2022 at 9:24pm |
It's cooked both. The one it came with. The push/pull from DJ's. The brass Marine grade push/pull,a three way on /off /on (both sides) and the latest a rubber shielded toggle from the starter/alternator shop. But I think your onto something with the amps. I'll put a handheld meter on it tomorrow.
Edited by exSW - 05 Nov 2022 at 9:50pm |
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exSW
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Posted: 06 Nov 2022 at 10:06am |
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Checked the amps (running) at the switch with my ES 585 Multimeter. 10 amp setting. Blew the multimeters internal fuse . So I may be on to something.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 06 Nov 2022 at 4:41pm |
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wire coming off the switch ONLY feeds the coil ? Dont want too much load thru that toggle... just the coil / distributor, which should be minimal..
12 v coil with "NO INTERNAL RESISTOR" ?? That works, but a new design which ELIMINATES the external resistor is a good long term plan. ... maybe thats why the coil is pulling too many amps ?
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exSW
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Posted: 06 Nov 2022 at 5:34pm |
That wire only feed the coil.The coil does have an internal resistor. The tractor came to me with a bad coil. Already had the in line resistor. I replaced the old coil with a resistor equiped one. I've been messing with it off and on all day. This system doesn't have a regulator, just a cutout. I took the cover off and the cutout seems to work properly. The generator delivers power to the battery through the same starter post that the starter switch pulls power from and the coil on/off pulls power from.
Edited by exSW - 06 Nov 2022 at 5:43pm |
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 06 Nov 2022 at 6:10pm |
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normally a cutout does not go with a 12 volt system.. On a 6 v system, the light switch with a resistor acts as a current limiter... You have NOTHING if your using a cutout on a 12v system and no regulation of current..
If you have a 12v coil with INTERNAL resistor.. you dont need the external resistor.. a 12v generator should be wired something like this.. You need to REGULATE the voltage and current outputs.. ![]() Edited by steve(ill) - 06 Nov 2022 at 6:18pm |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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exSW
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Posted: 06 Nov 2022 at 6:49pm |
Well I'm sorting my way through someone elses mess. I had suspected something got lost in the 12v conversion. The burnt out coil, there was a master cutoff blade switch on the battery plus the repositioned on/off switch. So I have to install a regulator,eliminate the cutout and wire accordingly.
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Bill_MN
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Sioux Falls, SD Points: 1471 |
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Posted: 06 Nov 2022 at 6:57pm |
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Unless you're trying to look somewhat original I'd start over with an alternator and wire it like this ![]() |
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1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow
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exSW
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Posted: 06 Nov 2022 at 7:11pm |
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Probably going to stick with the gennie for now. Wiring in a regulator and rerouting a couple wires is quick,cheap and easy. When it eventually gets repainted I'll do the upgrade then.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 06 Nov 2022 at 8:03pm |
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drawing shows a regulator with a "L" terminal.. You may get one that does not have that... L is just a another feed from the BATTERY... so use the BAT terminal..
Since you have a POSITIVE GROUND... you need to get a regulator that it setup for POSITIVE GROUND... or consider just changing to NEG ground... Depends on the REG you buy..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 06 Nov 2022 at 8:07pm |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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exSW
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Posted: 12 Nov 2022 at 8:02pm |
That's the regulator I used. Replaced the ammeter gauge and wired accordingly. Everything works and it's running ten amps off a cold start and then settles back to 4-5 with the lights on. Thanks for all the help.
Edited by exSW - 12 Nov 2022 at 8:03pm |
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 12 Nov 2022 at 8:10pm |
... did you eliminate the RESISTOR in the line to your NEW Coil ?
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exSW
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Posted: 13 Nov 2022 at 8:55am |
No. Would that be an issue?
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 13 Nov 2022 at 9:50am |
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There is suppose to be a resistor INSIDE the coil on a new 12 v unit... If you have a OLD coil with no INTERNAL resistor, then you need the OUTSIDE resistor... Normally when you buy a NEW coil it has INTERNAL and you can eliminate the outside coil.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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