I have a 120 mower which is basically the same with a trailing wheel and uses a hyd cylinder to raise/lower.
Here is a scan for the spring, mounts in the same position on your
mower. The spring however has no function in that actual lifting of
the bar. It helps take the weight off the bar while mowing. The
manual says that it should be adjusted (there is a long square headed
bolt that screws into the end of the spring with a lock nut) so it
takes approximately 85 pounds to lift the inner shoe by hand when the
mower is lowered. When unhooking the mower, you lift the arm, and
remove the spring pin that retains the springs bolt head and then lower
the mower. The spring shouldn't be stored with tension on it.
As far as you having lifting problems, which type of lift do you have?
One type is a cable , pulley, and a bracket that mounts to the drawbar,
so as the lift the 3 point lift arms it pulls the bell crank and
lifts. You adjust this style by adjusting the length of the cable. You should be able to just barely slip in the pin to the drawbar when the mower is lowered. You probably have this style of lift.
The other style has a roller on the left side that contacts the 3 point
lift arm as its raised and lowered. This style has a hook that catches
a chain that is attaches to the bell crank. You adjust it by adding/dropping links at the hook on the roller mechanism
O, on greasing the wobble box, numbers 14 and 15. Do NOT over grease. You grease it every 30 hours, with 3/8 oz of grease. My grease gun does this in about 10 strokes but they vary. Over greasing will damage the wobble box and you don't want to rebuild it, trust me. If you take care of it, it will last a long time.
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Edited by firebrick43 - 07 Sep 2010 at 11:12am
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