D 15 rear tire toe out

Seems to come and go . Hope this is not an early warning sign of a catastrophe . When I pulled the bull gear pan I could see where the gear had rubbed the inside of the pan sometime before I got tractor . Hope my fav son will post a picture . Thanks

Jack it up and push the tire top in and out. That's camber not toe it caused by bad wheel bearings. If the top of the tire moves when you push on it it's bad. On my C I was able to change shims on the spindle and tighten it up enough to make me happy. Changing the spindle bearings is a fairly involved task.

Have left rear tire jacked up . No movement when I push and pull on the top of the tire . Anything else I should do before I let tire down ? thanks !!

When you had it jacked up did you spin it. If the rim isn't running true with the wheel center you should be able to see it when you spin by hand. Is the other tire a match and inflated the same. I assume the other tire is on the same concrete pad. If you have no grabbing crunching lurking or jerking and the wheel center isn't loose I'd run it till something breaks.

Edited by Dakota Dave - 21 Apr 2020 at 2:54pm

Now we're getting somewhere . Both rear tires are slap full of water . With a chalkmark on the concrete I can see in and out movement when I spin the tire . Thanks everyone !

Point well taken Jay . I've had both of these loaded tires off and recruited my fav son to help me . I ain't no spring chicken either . Thanks !!

Fact is he's my only and most favorite son 🙂

You'll never regret fixing the problem...

Now I wish I hadn't watched that video Dave . Thanks anyway

Took a couple tries but I have my wheel cribbed up where it's just off the shop floor . Soon as I recruit some help I'm gonna pull this loaded tire . Also have the inner cap pulled off . Thanks !

Yeah Thanks Jay .

The roll pin is to keep the axle from unscrewing the bolt thru the washer. Roll pin should be thru washer and into the axle to do this. If washer has score marks, bearing or bearings could be bad. When in that far, I would replace seals and both cups and cones, on inner and outer . Bearings will have a slight preload on them when correct. If washer is bad, resurface it if only a little will clean it up, if not, replace.It will take a couple of tries to get it right. HTH Tracy

Yeah Tracy the roll pin fits in the axle but i was wondering about the other side of the washer . The 3 shims have slots in them that maybe the roll pin also fit in . It's not sticking out now and that's where the washer's scored . Might be able to file washer smooth but I'll prolly just buy a new one . Was hoping I wasn't gonna have to pull all this apart but I still don't see what's making this tire  lean so . Just checked those 4 nuts Dr allis . They're tight . Thanks to both of you !

The shims are to set the preload of the tapered roller bearings. It is a must to have them correct. To tight will cause premature failure. Too loose will do the same. I would guess your bearings have been too loose as the movement of wheel and scored washer.If replacing the cups, they must be bottomed against the stop surface. When not done correctly, you can't set preload correctly. Then after a while of use and running, the bearings will be loose, and little to no tension on bolt and washer. This is how they get loose. HTH Tracy

Made up a crude dial indicator . When I turn the axle flange it's about an 1/8" off . Guess I'm gonna have to pull this final drive apart . Any thoughts or advice ? Thanks !