How do I remove the radiator/water pump?

I'm having a tough time uploading pics... so please be patient with me. The pic is strecthed but I think you can once again see the area I'm having a rough time with...

It appears that somewhere along the line, someone spot welded the nose cone to the bar. Originally, the nose cone was held inplace with 3/8" bolts near the bottom, into the side rails and to the center bar for the hood sections. You should be able to remove the nose cone/radiator as an assembly. Remove the center side panel support bar (two 3/8" bolts front above the radiator hose and two 3/8" bolts just in front of the tank. After the support is removed, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, the fill tube in front of the radiator, and the two 1/2" bolts holding the radiator to the front casting.

Chuck,

Are you saying that the "bar" is that piece of metal (looks like a 2 or 3" bracket)? Why in the world would somebody weld it this way? It does not look like some average Joe welded it... if you look at it from inside the schroud, there's nothing that indicates it was welded... or at least not that I can tell. However, when trying to pry the thing apart, I realized that it's certainly not rusted together, or "bonded" in some way. Why would they weld this piece? Did AC do this? Are most D17 (gas) this way?

Is that a trip bucket loader on it?  Do you have a narrow front on it?   I would pull the loader arms and bucket off.  If it is the trip bucket style which I think it is from the looks of the loader frames, you can pop the pins that hold the rams on towards the front of the loader frame, and then pop the pins that hold the arms to the frame pieces on the back of the tractor.  If you have a narrow front, you can prop each arm up and back out.  If you have a wide front, you can park it under a tree or go in a barn or something and pull the frame up with rope or something and then back it out.  Then you can take each ram and pull straight up and bungee to the back of the frame.  Then you could loosen up the frame supports in the front and maybe loosen them a hair in the back and then drive a wood wedge inbetween the loader frame bracket and the tractor frame and that should give you the room to take the front end apart.   That way you won't lose all the hydraulic fluid from the rams and will make it a heck of alot easier to work on as you can bet right up to the front of the tractor.   Hope that helps. 

Paul - on the top link bracket.  Several vendors here sell them...go to this link and scroll down near the bottom for the D17 Series I, II, III pic on Tony Tractor's web site.  HTH.  Mike

http://www.tonystractors.com/ac3ph.htm

If you just need to change the water pump,you can change it without takin the radiator and shroud off,difficult job but not impossible.

No one said aword about the by- pass being blocked off !Pump already has been  changed one time ,someone put a early pump on it with no outlet for by pass to Thermostat.If it has a thermostat in it best to hook up the by-paas to get water flowing to bottom of thermostat. .Get the pump with hole to install pipe  for by-pass !!!!!     Good luck . Loadors are nice but a pain when needing to work around them.

I'm just going to cut the damn piece off... it's already been a huge headache and I have to get this running by the weekend. I'm frustrated. I REALLY appreciate all of you for taking the time to provide thorough, considerate responses.