WD45 getting water in oil

Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic

   Today I took the head off a WD45 that we have had since about 1966 The last time I ran it was 2 years ago and I drained the coolant out and ran it for a few minutes and shut it off, and then drained the oil out too.
 Prior to that, for a while, when starting the tractor, it would be a bit fussy and then would miss on one cylinder for several minutes and finally get going and clear up. 
 Well now I took the head off and took pictures and didn't expect to see some things.
 First were the over sized pistons. No wonder that thing could suck the fuel and pull hard... They are 4.125 with a head space of .527 and gasket of .070 thickness at fire ring.
 When taking the head off, I noticed where the thermostat housing is, the nuts came off real easy, not like having to crack the bolts loose. Wonder if them nuts shouldn't be tightened down tighter than the bolts...?
 Found rust on the #1 cylinder wall at the top,
 Found #2 spark plug with rust on it.,
  Found the gasket must not have been sealing very well between 2&3 Cylinders, nor out the side of #2..
 and seen some corrosion from water volute between 3&4 cylinder having white crust between them and then run around 3 and come down into the 2&3 cylinder area. or it looks that way to me. 
Top side of gasket.

bottom side of gasket against the block.

 Block, see where the light corrosion is between 3&4. And can see that no. 4 cylinder was the oil burner.

Now the head pics... Cylinders 1&2.  What is the blue corrosion by the intake valve?

Cylinders 3&4

I expected to see a definite channel for water to flow from a volute to one of the cylinders to create the missing in the engine on start up, and for the gray that was in the oil.  The plan was to drop the pan and put new rings in on the pistons and go through the valves and put a new head gasket in and get it back to running. Now, I guess I better check the seals on the sleeves while the pan is off. Put water in the block to see if there is any seeping or weeping under neath. I hope there isn't any...
  Would like to hear what your thoughts and or assessments are of what you have seen here.  Thanks, JC 

	This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity.
	The Forum	Parts and Services	Unofficial Allis Store	Tractor Shows	Serial Numbers	History

Author	Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic
JC-WI Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: wisconsin Points: 33841	Post Options Post Reply Quote JC-WI Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: WD45 getting water in oil Posted: 25 Apr 2018 at 6:57pm
	Today I took the head off a WD45 that we have had since about 1966 The last time I ran it was 2 years ago and I drained the coolant out and ran it for a few minutes and shut it off, and then drained the oil out too. Prior to that, for a while, when starting the tractor, it would be a bit fussy and then would miss on one cylinder for several minutes and finally get going and clear up. Well now I took the head off and took pictures and didn't expect to see some things. First were the over sized pistons. No wonder that thing could suck the fuel and pull hard... They are 4.125 with a head space of .527 and gasket of .070 thickness at fire ring. When taking the head off, I noticed where the thermostat housing is, the nuts came off real easy, not like having to crack the bolts loose. Wonder if them nuts shouldn't be tightened down tighter than the bolts...? Found rust on the #1 cylinder wall at the top, Found #2 spark plug with rust on it., Found the gasket must not have been sealing very well between 2&3 Cylinders, nor out the side of #2.. and seen some corrosion from water volute between 3&4 cylinder having white crust between them and then run around 3 and come down into the 2&3 cylinder area. or it looks that way to me. Top side of gasket. bottom side of gasket against the block. Block, see where the light corrosion is between 3&4. And can see that no. 4 cylinder was the oil burner. Now the head pics... Cylinders 1&2. What is the blue corrosion by the intake valve? Cylinders 3&4 I expected to see a definite channel for water to flow from a volute to one of the cylinders to create the missing in the engine on start up, and for the gray that was in the oil. The plan was to drop the pan and put new rings in on the pistons and go through the valves and put a new head gasket in and get it back to running. Now, I guess I better check the seals on the sleeves while the pan is off. Put water in the block to see if there is any seeping or weeping under neath. I hope there isn't any... Would like to hear what your thoughts and or assessments are of what you have seen here. Thanks, JC
	He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."

Sponsored Links

Lon(MN) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Elk River,MN Points: 1987	Post Options Post Reply Quote Lon(MN) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 26 Apr 2018 at 8:06am
	I would consider a complete rebuild. New piston rings are the better part of $100. A piston and liner kit is close to $300. A valve train parts kit is about $100. That includes guides and new valves. I have gone the patch method and will not do it again. Just my thoughts.