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Help with RC Gear in WC Rearend

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Reilly View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Reilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Help with RC Gear in WC Rearend
    Posted: 06 Feb 2018 at 9:05pm
Can anyone lead me in the right direction to contact someone that knows the correct way to put a Allis chalmers rc ring an pinion in a Allis chalmers WC
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Ken(MI) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken(MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 2018 at 6:41am
Not that difficult, but if you want to do it correctly, the pinion shaft needs to be ground for the support bearing in the WC differential and the parts should be installed in a WC center section, preferably an older one with the large tooth side gears, for pulling, this step is pretty important, the lazy way is to just swap center sections, and not fool with moving the ring and pinion from one carrier to the other, if you work it hard, it will break, just a matter of when.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Reilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 2018 at 7:38pm
Thanks for the info, but I'm actually looking for someone to do it for me. Do you know of anyone? What tractor would you recommend to do it on unstyled WC or a styled WC with a steel rearend?

Edited by Reilly - 07 Feb 2018 at 7:39pm
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1955allisca View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1955allisca Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2018 at 11:09pm
Sorry to hijack post but I am in the process of putting RC gears in a WC and I keep seeing stuff about machining the RC shaft down. My first question is what type bearing is supposed to be there? The one in mine is a flat roller bearing and the pinion has a bushing on it that rides inside bearing. Is that how they all are? Also if I can get this bushing off WC pinion will it go on RC or is that where the machining will have to occur? Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken(MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 2018 at 7:58pm
There are several bearings that will physically fit, that choice is yours, and yes, that is where the RC pinion shaft needs to be ground to accommodate the bearing, any decent machine shop should be able to handle this,if someone tries to tell you it can be turned in a lathe, run, don't walk, it needs to be ground.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1955allisca Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 2018 at 9:34pm
Well I got the bushing off the WC pinion and took 20 thousands off it and pressed it on the RC pinion but I guess it swelled from the heat and abuse and not its too big to fit in the bearing so I guess it back to the machine shop to have some meat ground off outside of bushing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken(MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Apr 2018 at 4:01am
Not sure why you heated it, but if you heated it over 300 degrees, it's now scrap, don't grind the race, remove it and grind the shaft for a proper fit, if it expanded so much that the bearing won't fit, it's way too tight and may split, which will really make your day when it fails.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1955allisca Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Apr 2018 at 8:02am
I had to heat it to get it off WC shaft, no heat to install so it is not too tight.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken(MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Apr 2018 at 12:56pm
If everything was right, there was no need to machine the inner race, the only machine work required is to finish grind the tail of the pinion shaft, from the factory these are only rough turned before heat treating on the RC, very rough on most that I've seen, the pinion shaft is case hardened and must be finish ground to accept the inner race of the bearing and to maintain concentricity, when done, everything should be within .001 total indicator reading or less if you expect it to live. If the race was heated enough to remove it, you might as well throw it away, it is now soft, at least where the rollers run. Heat anywhere near gears and bearings is a no, no unless the affected parts are to be thrown away, Anything over 300 degrees begins to compromise the heat treatment on those types of parts, anything over 500 degrees renders them useless. 

Edited by Ken(MI) - 07 Apr 2018 at 12:57pm
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