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Pictures of the U I looked at |
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ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Jackson, WI Points: 1826 |
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Posted: 16 Jun 2010 at 9:03pm |
Here are some pictures of the U that I found: Let me know what you think.
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ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Jackson, WI Points: 1826 |
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It has flat spokes on front and back, I am assuming that is steel cutoffs correct? Magneto looks like a younger replacement to the original. Manifold looks good. Rims look good. Tires are all holding air, but can't say a whole lot more then that. No pto on the back. Belt pulley on the side. Crank start with no starter etc. Sheet metal on front is good. Rear of fenders are bent up, but the rest of fenders are ok. Motor is loose, oil looks good. The only bad thing that I saw is the front axle has an extension welded onto it to lift the front end up. Also the front pivot bracket part of the casting was broken off at one time and was welded back on. It is behind that front hitch bracket. Looks to be a good weld job, but I did see it. Antifreeze was drained out of the system. Don't know the serial number as it is tight to the back wall and cant get back there to look at it. What else is wrong or incorrect? I don't know why but my camera took some really crudy pictures. Would love to hear anyones input as to what this thing is worth? I would love to add it to the collection but she's going to need some work. But you don't find a U everyday either.
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David Maddux
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Points: 2524 |
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The narrow fenders looks to be originally an early Continental U. At some time Allis Chalmers provided a repower kit to turn the Continentals into the UM engines. You will see a lot of these. Most of the time you see a narrow fender, this is what happened. Engine fronts are not hard to come by for the replacement of the welded front. I have seen a lot of tractors that the axle was lowered in this fashion. The fronts look as though they may have been refitted with a smaller rim, possibly a 15". It looks like it may have the steering shaft extension. That seems to be common with the repower kit. The radiator core looks good, but with no antifreeze, you don't know what you have. It looks to me like a good possible project. Is the motor stuck? I have bought stuck Continental U's for 1100.00 My guess would be from 750.00 to 1500.00 without hearing it run if it is not stuck. Dave.
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GreenOrange
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Wisconsin Points: 832 |
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Actually 1933, 1934 and 1935 U's with the UM engine had the narrow fenders too. Did you get the casting number off the transmission housing? That may give a clue as to age.
-John Edited by GreenOrange - 16 Jun 2010 at 9:41pm |
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David Maddux
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Points: 2524 |
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Greenorange: I stand corrected, I should have looked at my data book before I shot off my fingers. However there were the repower units available in later years .
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Clay in MI
Silver Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Upper Michigan Points: 56 |
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Chuck, if you're still looking for a baler there was an Allis 303 in Custer, WI on craigslist.
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ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Jackson, WI Points: 1826 |
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Thanks, Clay. I saw that ad after I had committed to buy the International baler from this guy. Thanks for the info Dave and GreenOrange. Does the steel cutoffs make it worth less? You bring up a good point that I should try to fill it up with water or antifreeze and see if everything holds to make sure that it is good. It is loose, I cranked it over myself tonite to make sure and heard the mag click a couple times so all is good there, but it will take some effort on the mag and carb to get it to run. I should him that one AC buyers guide book where it states the values, and poor to excellent it was 300 to like 3500. He said he would like to get a couple grand out of it; I think he's still under the impression that it is worth alot more. I shot from the hip and said that I would be willing to go at a 1000 but I would like to take some pictures of it and then get some other opinions before I go any further. I appreciate the opinions. It does look to be an early one. Where is the transmission casting number?
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David Maddux
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Points: 2524 |
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The trans casting number should be on the top close to the trans top cover and the serial no. will be next to where the pto would be. The cut offs are not the most demanding wheels, but they don't hurt the value any. If it runs well, 2000.00 would be all I would want to give, and I would have to study that for a while. Dave.
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Fred in Pa
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Hanover Pa. Points: 9210 |
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There where 2 differant front supports for the UM engine to axle .The taller one was on the late model .I have one of those extra to sale ,
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