Draw bar set up

To have the most competitive tractor, you need to have the drawbar as SHORT as the rules allow and as HIGH as the rules allow. Usually this is 18 inches short from the center of the rear wheel backwards and 20 inches high up to the pull point. If your front end is too heavy, you really need to figure out how to change the chassis and rear tire traction to make it work at the shortest setting. You'll find no NTPA puller running a 20 inch long drawbar....it's always 18 inches. Their Techmen are always looking for someone who tries to be shorter than 18 inches. You do whatever you want, and the next time you fall into a set of spin-out holes made by the current leader of your class, you lose, because your drawbar is probably longer than his. I don't particularly believe in belly racks either. They have their place, but limited. For example, if you just ran a 6,000 pound class and your "balance" was good, weighting up for the 7,000 pound class should be easy.....300 on the front and 700 just behind the rear wheels. If your rear weights are centered on the rear wheels, you might get by with 800 rear and 200 on the nose. All a belly rack does is confuse your thinking. Keep it simple.

I agree about the belly bar . I always fill back bar before using mine. Also most of the time short drawbar is the way to go. But if front end is to heavy you can help yourself by sliding drawbar back some but don't get to crazy. Local association here has a very long chain on sled. That helps the deeres that are usually very lite on front end they can move their weight from front to back. Opposite effect on the farmalls they wind up being extremely nose heavy with all the cast iron they have on the front end. I wouldn't go any futher back than 2 inches and then you're still experimenting.