Stitching cast iron

I think a lot of it depends on the LOCATION.. if the area can FLEX, you might have future problems.. If it is out in the flat area and plenty of meat around it ... probably OK.

I'm not looking at it, but the crack is on the front machined face? and wraps around to the right side behind the injection pump??  I think the only welding/brazing that will have ANY chance of holding would require the block to be stripped, put in an oven and warmed up to a proper temperature and then repaired. If you've got to go to that expense to have a repaired block, I'd be looking for a good used block or engine to harvest a block from.  This isn't an engine block in a 1930's WC with 5 to 1 compression. It is an engine that makes waaay more HP and torque and operates at double the RPM's with three times the compression ratio. The block absorbs all this hammering and vibration and it's too bad it has a crack, but I don't think it will ever work with an in-chassis repair.

"stitching" is a process of drilling a line of 5/16 inch holes thru the crack and screwing in special little screw like set screw.... you space them with a small gap between, then go back and drill between the screws and install more... you end up with a line of screws thru the crack that overlap and are all locktite together... It is a process that was started probably 70 years ago... now "special tools" are used to space / drill/ install .

Edited by steve(ill) - 16 Aug 2022 at 7:53pm

Thanks to all who responded.
Guess that I pretty well knew in the back of my mind that a new block is inevitable. I have too many projects to do, and not enough money to get em all done in as timely of a fashion as I would like to be able to, so sometimes I start grasping at straws.
I do know that if the original didn't hold up, a fix that is not as strong as the original damn sure won't hold up. I'm not sure what caused the original crack in the block behind the water pump, or if maybe the PO that fixed it didn't quite fix it 100 percent, and it may have held with a better fix or not. At the time that the crack came around the corner and went down the side of the water jacket, it was getting worked harder than it ever had since I owned it, so stress was no doubt a factor.
I do have a block in an 8050 that burned up a few years ago, should be the same block, not? Just needs 8070 components. Sad part, this engine ran like a swiss watch, didn't burn any oil, pulled very well. Was actually a 7580 engine with the roosa pump. But despite all of that, it's still not going to be a cheap fix, because even though things were in good shape, you just don't tear an engine down and put back together without some new parts. I know that the pump and injectors will be fine, head will need a "looking over". Beyond that, time will tell. They say that a gasket set alone now, which is a given, is over a grand. Way too sweet of a tractor to watch it just sitting there. Where there is a will, there's a way. Looking forward to somehow getting it back to earning it's keep.
Darrel

8050 block is the same. The 7080/7580/8070/4W220 engines were stretched out to 210 to 222 flywheel HP depending on which chassis the engine went into. If it is any consolation, they are not known at all for block failures like you have. Broken crankshafts, yes, and many of those could be attributed to over fueled and/or bad fluid vibration dampers.

NEVER green wrote:   I have a engine out of a 7040, ran,wore out very cheap if you would pick up.  Minnescrotum cant be too far away.

What part of Minnesota are you in?
Thanks, Darrel