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CrestonM 
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Joined: 08 Sep 2014
Location: Oklahoma
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 Topic: Steiner B Oil Pump Kit
Posted: 08 Sep 2016 at 11:20am |
Has anyone used the B/C/CA oil pump rebuild kit from Steiner? I need to get my B totally put back together within the next couple weeks, as Milo harvest is coming up and I'm going to need the B to run the combine.
That said, I'm thinking of just ordering a rebuild kit for the oil pump, as the gauge reads on the "N" when cold, and on the border line when warm. It does have the correct oil filter.
If Steiner's kit is any good, I'm hoping that will fix it. I noticed it doesn't have the little ball that the spring presses against. But first, could someone explain how to remove the pump? Do you just remove the 3 big bolts, disconnect the lines coming from the pipe, and pull the whole assembly off?
Thanks
Here's the link:
Oh...on a side note...when I was rebuilding the engine, I couldn't find shims anywhere...but now that I'm done, Steiner shows them on their website! Phfff! Oh well, my Dr. Pepper can worked Lol
Edited by CrestonM - 08 Sep 2016 at 11:26am
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JohnCO
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Posted: 08 Sep 2016 at 11:33am |
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Sounds like you have it figured out, fairly simple job after rebuilding the engine.
I notice DJS, who is on here occasionally has them for the same price.
Hope it doesn't rain when you are trying to combine, lol!
Edited by JohnCO - 08 Sep 2016 at 11:35am
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"If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"
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wbecker
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Posted: 08 Sep 2016 at 11:39am |
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If you need the tractor for harvest, you could squeeze the hole in the end of the filter tube closed some, or close the hole. Then you can deal with it after harvest.
Bill B
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Allis B, IB, Low B, G, D10, JD M, 8KCAB, C152
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CrestonM
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Posted: 08 Sep 2016 at 12:00pm |
 wbecker wrote:
If you need the tractor for harvest, you could squeeze the hole in the end of the filter tube closed some, or close the hole. Then you can deal with it after harvest.
Bill B
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Shut off flow to the filter to get max pressure? Lol Actually, it was that way. When I first started the tractor I screwed a mason jar on so I could see if there was oil flow. There wasn't, but there was oil pressure. I pulled on the stem some, and oil started spewing everywhere lol Surprisingly it didn't affect the pressure much.
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CrestonM
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Posted: 08 Sep 2016 at 12:04pm |
JohnCO wrote:
Hope it doesn't rain when you are trying to combine, lol!
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It did last year. When the crop was ripe, it rained. And kept raining every time the field was almost dry enough to get into. When it finally dried out enough (still a little damp in places) we were combining a September/October crop on Christmas Eve! And the birds had gotten to all of it, so yields were terrible. I cut 5 acres with my 60A and only got 1 bin full. My friend who actually owns the field cut the rest with his R75 and only got 1 bin full (390 bushels). Not sure how many acres the field was, but I'd guess 45 or so.
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CAL(KS)
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Posted: 08 Sep 2016 at 12:16pm |
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yikes! mine made close to 100 bph but with this years prices $2.45 even that wont be that great
Edited by CAL(KS) - 08 Sep 2016 at 1:08pm
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Allis dave
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Posted: 08 Sep 2016 at 12:53pm |
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Creston, That probably just a little ball bear ball. If you think you want a new one, you can get them from most hardware stores for about $1. I'm not sure if you should, or if it's possible on that pump, but you might want to "seat" the new ball by putting it in it's seat and smacking it with a hammer. Then throw the new ball away and assemble the pump with a 2nd new ball.
Just an idea. I'm sure Dick or Charlie can chime in if it's a "good" idea or not because I don't really know anything about those B pumps.
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Leon n/c AR.
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Posted: 08 Sep 2016 at 2:40pm |
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I am no expert on the B oil pumps but from what I have read is the critical part is the clearance between the rotor and the plate and getting the rotor surface smooth if rough. Leon
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Chalmersbob
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Posted: 09 Sep 2016 at 10:43pm |
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You can probably just get the shims and set the pump up properly and get all the oil pressure you need. If it's not shimmed properly you will not get the max pressure from it. LOL Bob
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4 B's, 1 C's,3 CA's, 2 G's WD, D14, D15, B-1, B10, B12, 712S,
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 09 Sep 2016 at 11:13pm |
I think the pressure generated depends on the quality of the oil pump. It is a very simple vane pump that has to seal on the OD of the vanes and the end plates. You change the paper gasket on the end plate to adjust the end clearance. A couple thousands will make some PSI difference. The oil is pumped down the hollow cam shaft and has a relief at the front. The relief should never pop off...The oil is sprayed at the pistons bottom side and bearings by holes drilled in the cam shaft... The oil also goes to the filter which steals about 15% of the total and dumps it to sump. You use the other 85% of the oil... and that should maintain 12-15 psi of pressure on a good engine. If you locked the relief closed, I would guess you still get 15 psi pressure .... If you want GOOD pressure , you need to fit the vanes good inside the pumps, make sure the edges are nice and smooth, and use very thin gaskets on the end plate to get minimum clearance... and file or sand the end plate first to get and grooves/ wear out of them.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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CrestonM
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Posted: 10 Sep 2016 at 7:06am |
Chalmersbob wrote:
You can probably just get the shims and set the pump up properly and get all the oil pressure you need. If it's not shimmed properly you will not get the max pressure from it. LOL Bob |
By shims, what do you mean? Are you talking about what Steve said, using gaskets?
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CrestonM
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Posted: 10 Sep 2016 at 7:07am |
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Ok so, another question...how do you get the pump off? Just remove the 3 bolts and the oil line and pull it off?
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 10 Sep 2016 at 8:14am |
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yes, the pump mounts with 3 bolts.. it had a lug on the input shaft and plugs into a SLOT in the cam end... just pull off.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 10 Sep 2016 at 8:18am |
with Dicks permission, here is a drawing on his page that shows the vanes and shim gasket.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Rog(NCWI)
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Posted: 10 Sep 2016 at 7:54pm |
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Don't you have to split the tractor to get at the oil pump?
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Norm Meinert
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Posted: 10 Sep 2016 at 9:07pm |
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I sell rebuilt oil pumps for the b-c up to the d-15. If the rotor shaft is loose in the housing and the end plate has wear at an angle, the complete housing must be remachined. The parts from Steriner will not give the proper clearance in a bad housing.
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Chalmersbob
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Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 11:16pm |
Steve(Ill) only on the 149 engine, and possibly the 138, was the relief valve in the end of the camshaft. But the relief valve is also in the pump as on the 116 and 125 engines. So the 149 engine has 2 relief valves, not just 1 as the B and C have. Bob
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4 B's, 1 C's,3 CA's, 2 G's WD, D14, D15, B-1, B10, B12, 712S,
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CrestonM
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Posted: 13 Sep 2016 at 7:46am |
Norm Meinert wrote:
I sell rebuilt oil pumps for the b-c up to the d-15. If the rotor shaft is loose in the housing and the end plate has wear at an angle, the complete housing must be remachined. The parts from Steriner will not give the proper clearance in a bad housing. |
Thanks, Norm. Actually, I was wondering the same thing, "Well, what if the housing itself is worn??" Sent you a PM.
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