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cmpman 
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 Topic: steering help d17!!!!
Posted: 27 Mar 2010 at 6:47am |
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My 1963 d17 power steering was only turning to the right under power and not to the left. I changed fluid and still doing it . I read somthing about shims? any one have and idea?
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Chris/CT
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Location: Niantic, Ct
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Posted: 27 Mar 2010 at 7:50am |
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Actuator on the fritz? If you do not have a serv. manual it will help you understand how it works. they [Agco] has a small parts kit to re-fresh the actuator.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 27 Mar 2010 at 8:23am |
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Actually the problem is probably the connecting pin that holds the rack gear to the end of the hydraulic assist cylinder. Remove the radiator shell and on the RH side(of the steering gearbox) is a retangular cover (about 3" x 4") with four countersunk allen head screws. Remove it and you'll see the pin sheared off on the end of the rack and hyd ram rod. Drain the PS oil before removing the cover.
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Chris/CT
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Posted: 27 Mar 2010 at 8:28am |
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DrAllis, So I understand for future ref. If the Pin is sheared would the rack not move i either direction? R or L? or, is the Hyd ram able to "push" it for right steering and unable to "pull" it for left, clarify please.
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cmpman
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Posted: 27 Mar 2010 at 9:03am |
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Thanks for info i do not have manual, but if pin is not connected how would ram move at all. it always turns to right under power no matter how far to left you put it. I have a loader on front so I can pick front end off ground. Everything moves freely when tires off ground so it must be pump related not mechanical. any more help or ideas would be great thanks
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Chris/CT
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Posted: 27 Mar 2010 at 9:27am |
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Well, if it is pump related than why would it have pressure to turn one direction and not the other?, unless pressure is to low?
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 27 Mar 2010 at 10:59am |
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With the front off the ground there could be enough resistance with the sheared pin to move things. If the pump works one way it will work the other way, since it only pumps oil one direction. If it's not the pin the actuator is not working and you will still have to get to it to check it out.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 27 Mar 2010 at 2:32pm |
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With the pin sheared off it will "power-assist" to the right and no assist to the left.
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Jeff Z. NY
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Posted: 27 Mar 2010 at 2:42pm |
My D-17 wheels would turn by themselves to the right because of a loose nut on the shaft inside the power steering control valve.
Part Number 79 in the I&T D-17 service manual.
Edited by Jeff Z. NY - 27 Mar 2010 at 2:48pm
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cmpman
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Posted: 27 Mar 2010 at 4:13pm |
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I found the problem the pin is not only broke the ram tip broke off . I was able to get the pieces out and the rear cap off . now how do I slide the ram out to fix it
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cmpman
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Posted: 28 Mar 2010 at 8:36am |
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do I have to buy a new cylinder assembly if the ram tip is broke off or can I buy just the inner parts and rebuild? not sure how to pull the ram out. I hope I dont have to pull the end of tractor apart.
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Chris/CT
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Posted: 28 Mar 2010 at 8:39am |
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I may have a used piston/rack assy I could sell you, need some dimensions, mine is off D-15 PS, could be same.
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cmpman
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Posted: 28 Mar 2010 at 8:46am |
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do I have to replace the whole assembly or can I get new piston rod. The rod broke where the pin connects to ram rack. not sure if its the same on a d15 or not
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DrAllis
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Posted: 28 Mar 2010 at 8:47am |
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Put a good jack under the bellhousing and jack it up enough to take the weight off of the front axle pivot pin (it is a WF I hope?). Remove the radiator from the front support. Remove all four mtg bolts (loosen all side frame bolts)and disconnect all 3 tubes going from front support to the steering pump. Pull /slide the front support straight ahead and rest it on a short table or barrel or blocking of some kind (a cherry picker would be good too) and remove lines and four bolts and yank the hyd ram out of the front support. Find a good used hyd ram with the rack. Replacement unit has to be timed so it steers equal distances left and right from "center". Stick with the original shim stack on the rack guide plate.
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Chris/CT
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Posted: 28 Mar 2010 at 8:48am |
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IT man. 201 say's; To remove PS Ram, Remove front Support, Maybe someone can chime in if it is possible without all the shtmtl,radiator,removal. IT manual say'd D-14/15 ram/cyl/rack are common to D-17.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 28 Mar 2010 at 9:17am |
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The rack might be the same, but the cylinder sure isn't. You go right ahead and leave the radiator on the front support and let me know how that works when you lose control of things and you have to buy a radiator too.
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cmpman
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Posted: 28 Mar 2010 at 11:55am |
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Thanks for all the tips . it looks like I need to split the front of the tractor. If I manage to do that and can get the assembly out what are the chances of finding a replacement.
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cmpman
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Posted: 28 Mar 2010 at 12:09pm |
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Is it ok to drive tractor without the power steering parts working or will that do more damage?
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Rick
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Posted: 28 Mar 2010 at 12:33pm |
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Dr. Allis has it right...been there a time or two. Despite what the manual tells you about leaving the radiator on,etc.,your best bet is to take it off to keep from spending more money later on. I know that a D17 and D19 PS ram are the same...been there and done that too. Rick
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DrAllis
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Posted: 28 Mar 2010 at 1:05pm |
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Can't drive without it because you'll ruin the power steering pump without oil to lube it.
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cmpman
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Posted: 28 Mar 2010 at 1:15pm |
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should be ok if I take belt off pump right? also is the reason I have to split front end because of that mount the cylinder passes through? Thanks for the great info by the way
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Chris/CT
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Posted: 28 Mar 2010 at 3:22pm |
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I would guess the reason for dropping front support is because you need room top back the cylinder and rack out of the support.
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Rick
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Posted: 28 Mar 2010 at 3:26pm |
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Chris, Yes...that is correct. It might take a little longer to get things apart,but it's easier in the long run and you don't take the chance of screwing up the radiator. And we all know how much they cost! Rick
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cmpman
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Posted: 28 Mar 2010 at 7:06pm |
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Ok I guess I cant get around not taking the front off. The thing that stinks is I have a ts1000 loader on front to and thats got to come off first. Im not really set up to take on such a big job but I cant afford to have a shop do it. Wish me luck not sure how I will make out. Thanks for help every one. This is the first allis Ive owend and I was told you guys were great to talk to.
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Rick
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Posted: 28 Mar 2010 at 7:15pm |
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Cmpman, The first thing you need to do is get on line and purchase an I&T manual. That's a must if you've never done this before. I'm sure that there's a lot of folks here that can help you get things worked out fine,so just ask away. Rick
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cmpman
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Posted: 28 Mar 2010 at 7:46pm |
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Thanks Rick I will get one . What are the odds of me getting a new cylinder assembly once I get it apart. Should I find one first and are they expensive?
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Rick
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Posted: 28 Mar 2010 at 7:58pm |
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I'm sure your local Agco dealer can still get them,but I'm also sure they're very pricey. You could probably just get the kit a lot cheaper and rebuild it yourself or have it done. Also,there are a lot of parts tractors around or folks selling parts that could probably take care of your needs. Rick
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