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CAdon 
Orange Level
Joined: 14 Mar 2012
Location: southern CA
Points: 1019
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 Topic: splitting CA
Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 9:26pm |
 final question for the night: need to split my CA because previous owner disabled foot clutch cuz he "heard some clanking in there". for my limited use i relied on the hand clutch as he did. i HAVE read all the safety warnings here and definitely will follow them (including adequate support of engne half to prevent rollover). looks to me like i'll need to remove the suspended framework (and what's that for btw?) and circled the location of known (guessing here) nuts/bolts to allow it to split. just asking if there are more... i DO hate surprises dealing with heavy machinery... i have a two week vacation coming up in a week (high school teacher) & plan to do "the great adventure" then. while it's open i plan to replace the whole clutch kit. cannot tell you how eager i am do do my first "major project" on this. and now realize i MUST find a B to run while i'm working on the CA... and vice versa. do i really need 2 AC's on a little 5 acre plot? answer: at LEAST 2!! ez to catch orange fever, isn't it...
Edited by CAdon - 15 Mar 2012 at 9:28pm
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Eldon (WA)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Spokane, WA
Points: 7765
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Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 9:38pm |
Well first off that cultivator and frame has to come off (more reason to sell it to me)...then you will see two more bolts behind it that match the top bolts you circled. Remove the gas tank and fuel line. Then the throttle rod and choke wire. Support both halves and remove the 4 bolts on the transmission housing. I use a cherry picker on the front half so I can wheel it away from the rear. Clutch is simple to replace.
You can never have enough tractors....I had 26 with one acre, then moved to a nine acre patch and now have around 80...but who's counting....have fun!
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CAdon
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Joined: 14 Mar 2012
Location: southern CA
Points: 1019
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Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 9:41pm |
thanks for the advice AND the chuckle! i will NOT let my wife read your post... right now she thinks i be stopping at two.
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Eldon (WA)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Spokane, WA
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Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 9:44pm |
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Oops, forgot to mention the steering linkage has to be removed (but that is obvious, right??). To remove it, take the nut almost off at the front steering arm, get a pry bar in there like you are going to pry it off...put pressure on the bar and hit the end of the steering arm with a big hammer and it will pop right out....oh yeah, leave the nut on a couple of threads or it will go flying when it lets go.
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ALLIS EXPRESS!
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CAdon
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Joined: 14 Mar 2012
Location: southern CA
Points: 1019
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Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 9:44pm |
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have fun?! at 70 i finally got my first tractor... and love it at least as much as i did my first car. this isn't a hobby - it's a passion! (like i need to tell you that...)
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MNLonnie
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Baxter MN
Points: 4791
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Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 9:44pm |
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Remove the stuff hanging underneath and then remove hood, steering from either end, gas line, choke rod, governor rod and oil lines in back of filter. Then if supported properly remove the angle iron from the sides and the 4 bolts holding the motor to the torque tube and should slide apart. Don't think I forgot anything, just split my C last night to switch oil pumps. There is an inspection cover under the torque tube that you may be able to see what was unhooked and maybe you don't have to split it.
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Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker
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MNLonnie
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Location: Baxter MN
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Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 9:45pm |
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Holy crap do I type slow!!
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Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker
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CAdon
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Location: southern CA
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Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 9:46pm |
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yep i WILL proceed with all due caution. must survive to go to the next adventure!
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CAdon
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Location: southern CA
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Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 9:51pm |
thanks lonnie but now i am all geared up to split it anyway... msut be something wrong in there... and am naturally curious anyway. when i do get a "backup" B to use i will probably field strip the whole thing just so i know the condition of everything. this is a "first love" tractor and i want to know everything about it i can.
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Dakota Dave
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: ND
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Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 10:57pm |
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You can take those angle iron brackets off and leave them off. once you have the hood steering and fuel tank off. use a cherry picker on the rocker arm cover bolts it will hang straight and be easy to push back together.
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Gary
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Peterborough,On
Points: 5899
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Posted: 16 Mar 2012 at 4:07am |
Anyone else notice ? A CA with 'hand clutch' on L/H side ! Gary
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Dick L
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edon Ohio
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Posted: 16 Mar 2012 at 4:51am |
 Gary wrote:
Anyone else notice ? A CA with 'hand clutch' on L/H side ! Gary |
That would be so you can steer with your right hand while looking behind over your left shoulder to see what is going on using the power take off equipment. Like a combine or baler so it is easier to use the hand clutch. Splitting pictures.
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Dick L
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Location: Edon Ohio
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Posted: 16 Mar 2012 at 4:55am |
CAdon wrote:
have fun?! at 70 i finally got my first tractor... and love it at least as much as i did my first car. this isn't a hobby - it's a passion! (like i need to tell you that...) |
Dang kids will try anything!  I gotchya beat by a coupla years. I be a thirty eight model.
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Ken in Texas
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Henderson, TX
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Posted: 16 Mar 2012 at 7:10am |
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When I first saw this post I thought " A CA with a narrow front". My CA has the single front wheel. Splitting these narrow fronts and SFW models is a bit more tricky. Wide fronts are a piece of cake by comparison. The front half naturally wants to stand up OK without any special attention.
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EdK
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Newcastle, CA
Points: 223
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Posted: 16 Mar 2012 at 9:46am |
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I split my C a few years ago to un-jam the engine. While I was in the clutch housing, after a monumental cleaning chore, I changed a few parts on the clutch mechanism and the starter ring gear. I should have gone a little further and should have attacked the shaft seal from the engine. Be sure to take a good look at everything in there and replace or fix what ever doesn't look or work right.
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CAdon
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Joined: 14 Mar 2012
Location: southern CA
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Posted: 16 Mar 2012 at 9:57am |
dick L - thanks as always for informative (& encouraging) words & pix. btw i do not begrudge you the extra 3 years on earth... but all those years in heaven (on and around tractors) you have on me make me orange (definitely not green!) with envy.
and sorry to disappoint all, the hand clutch IS on the right where it belongs... which is why i am so desperate to get the foot clutch functional again. i seem to be one hand short when steering, shifting and "clutching".
eldon - so sorry to disappoint you but i do plan to utilize that marvelously sturdy "underframe" for a variety of applications, some homemade. plus... i ned MORE orange stuff, not less. (yes, i know, you offfered a trade.)
fyi i got this whole package (including gannon "earthcavator" )for $1000... when i was totally unaware of what "right" prices would be. and was amazingly 2 miles from my house. i guess it was destiny...
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wfmurray
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Bostic NC
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Posted: 16 Mar 2012 at 10:14am |
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I split my B by making a wood frame to support front .Had chainfall on toqure tube . Put pto in gear and tractor ingear ,put vice grips on pto and just cranked it apart.PS I did have other parts unfastened.
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