Snow Plow on a B, PICTURES!

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   Two recent threads have been about mounting snow plows on B tractors, and I had promised to get some pictures of my recently rebuilt setup.  The fellow I bought this plow from said that he thought it was made by Allis-Chalmers, but I rather doubt it.  The mounts look a lot like pictures from Meyer catalogs and the drawings on Rod Thompson's website, but the plow trip spring setup doesn't look like a Meyer, so maybe it is someone else's product.  At any rate, I'm pretty sure it was a factory built unit. You'll have to excuse the tractor, one of its' previous owners thought that it would look better in gray... 
When I got the plow, most of the actual mounts were in poor condition.  It had obviously seen a lot of use and abuse in upstate New York where it came from.  I ended up building new bars to mount along the engine block, a new "yoke" that mounts below the grill, and I made one new angle to go between the "yoke" and the drawbar.
I changed the engine side bars some from the original design.  It was more like what Rod Thompson shows on his site, but I was concerned that it was not rigid enough to protect the grill if the yoke was inadvertently run up on a rock or a stump.  Rather than have the side bars merely perched on top of the front engine mount, I welded tabs to the side bars with holes that allow them to be bolted to the engine mount using the same holes that are used for the front of the side weights.

A front view of the "Yoke".  I'm not really sure what the original yoke looked like, or how it was mounted.  The original had been badly hacked up, and was bent to the point that it would barely work.  Hopefully my replacement will do the job. I really need to get some real pins to mount the plow, the bolts with cotter pins are left over from the previous owner:
Here's a view from the rear, I left the rockshaft cylinder in place and plugged its' hose with a plastic Caplug:

Lift height is not great at 12", but it could be a lot worse.  Unfortunately, it does get worse when the blade is angled (~9").

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BrettPhillips Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Strasburg, VA Points: 808	Post Options Post Reply Quote BrettPhillips Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Snow Plow on a B, PICTURES! Posted: 14 Dec 2010 at 9:58pm
	Two recent threads have been about mounting snow plows on B tractors, and I had promised to get some pictures of my recently rebuilt setup. The fellow I bought this plow from said that he thought it was made by Allis-Chalmers, but I rather doubt it. The mounts look a lot like pictures from Meyer catalogs and the drawings on Rod Thompson's website, but the plow trip spring setup doesn't look like a Meyer, so maybe it is someone else's product. At any rate, I'm pretty sure it was a factory built unit. You'll have to excuse the tractor, one of its' previous owners thought that it would look better in gray... When I got the plow, most of the actual mounts were in poor condition. It had obviously seen a lot of use and abuse in upstate New York where it came from. I ended up building new bars to mount along the engine block, a new "yoke" that mounts below the grill, and I made one new angle to go between the "yoke" and the drawbar. I changed the engine side bars some from the original design. It was more like what Rod Thompson shows on his site, but I was concerned that it was not rigid enough to protect the grill if the yoke was inadvertently run up on a rock or a stump. Rather than have the side bars merely perched on top of the front engine mount, I welded tabs to the side bars with holes that allow them to be bolted to the engine mount using the same holes that are used for the front of the side weights. A front view of the "Yoke". I'm not really sure what the original yoke looked like, or how it was mounted. The original had been badly hacked up, and was bent to the point that it would barely work. Hopefully my replacement will do the job. I really need to get some real pins to mount the plow, the bolts with cotter pins are left over from the previous owner: Here's a view from the rear, I left the rockshaft cylinder in place and plugged its' hose with a plastic Caplug: Lift height is not great at 12", but it could be a lot worse. Unfortunately, it does get worse when the blade is angled (~9").

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Chuck(ONT) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario Points: 1055	Post Options Post Reply Quote Chuck(ONT) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Dec 2010 at 6:41am
	Thanks for the pictures, looks like a project for next summer. What size angle did you use for the yoke?
	Never take life too seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway! 1C 1 WD45 1 AC180

JohnThomas Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Traverse City Points: 332	Post Options Post Reply Quote JohnThomas Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Dec 2010 at 6:58am
	Looks workable Brett but I'd like to offer one suggestion...I would put a brace/tie between the two angle irons running to the hitch to help spread any sudden loads to both members. That's a long span there as it is. . Only other problem you may have is riding up onto the plow with a sudden hit. The blade does not have a trip mechanism like a Meyers plow blade would so you'll need to watch for this. I'd also run a bolt thru the chain up at the eye to keep the blade from sagging on one side or the other. Good Luck..& have fun!
	Life is short...Make haste to be kind

BrettPhillips Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Strasburg, VA Points: 808	Post Options Post Reply Quote BrettPhillips Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Dec 2010 at 10:32am
	Chuck: I believe the vertical members are 2 X 2 X 5/16, and the horizontal member is 3 X 3 X 1/2 angle. The mounting tabs and the diagonal brace are 1/2 x 2 flat bar. John: I agree that it's a long span, but the Meyer blades used something very similar (of course their span looks to have been a little more than a foot shorter). Here's a picture that forum member "AC WD45" posted a couple of days ago: Regarding the spring trip function, my plow does have a spring trip, but instead of being a pair of extension springs, it is a compression spring that is enclosed in the tube at the center of the blade. Your point about using a bolt to keep one side of the blade from sagging is well taken. Anything to improve the transport clearance will be helpful! Thanks!

morton(pa) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Lancaster, PA Points: 1234	Post Options Post Reply Quote morton(pa) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Dec 2010 at 10:38am
	FINALLY someone has pictures! Brett, thank you so much!!!!!! It's always easier to LOOK at something then to try to picture it in your head. I think it makes for a better end result too. Thanks a lot.

Russ-MI Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Corunna, MI Points: 12	Post Options Post Reply Quote Russ-MI Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Dec 2010 at 2:31pm
	Thanks that is what i was looking for also. Looks like it's all bolted together. Thats good cause i don't know how to weld.

AC WD45 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 28 Sep 2009 Location: Mid Michigan Points: 2058	Post Options Post Reply Quote AC WD45 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Dec 2010 at 6:43pm
	Welding isn't as hard as you'd expect, I'm 16 and I taught my self. It's an acquired skill though, not something you'll learn overnight.
	German Shepherd dad 1957 Allis Chalmers WD45 #WD234847 1951 Allis Chalmers WD #WD88193

CTuckerNWIL Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22823	Post Options Post Reply Quote CTuckerNWIL Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Dec 2010 at 7:07pm
	Brett, If you have plenty of lift force, you could relocate the top cylinder connection toward the pivot point for more travel. You might experiment with it but when done you might have to reinforce the top channel. Nice looking out fit and I hope you don't need it much for snow this winter. Charlie
	http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF

BrettPhillips Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Strasburg, VA Points: 808	Post Options Post Reply Quote BrettPhillips Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Dec 2010 at 7:15pm
	Charlie: I've thought of that, and I may yet try it. Right now I really need to change the transmission oil to something thinner so the hydraulic pump will work a little faster! Thanks for the compliment, BTW! Russ: There is still a fair amount of welding! Especially in the yoke and the cylinder mounting frame.

Ted J Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 05 Jul 2010 Location: La Crosse, WI Points: 18849	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ted J Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Dec 2010 at 6:29am
	Hi Brett, Never mind the gray, it looks like it is gray PRIMER. Someone was gonna paint it Persian #1 and didn't get around to it. I agree with JohnThomas on the supports that are needed, the safety trip and chains on the outboard of the plow to keep it level. As CTucker said the lift on the blade would be more if you moved the bar up for the bottom of the piston. That would shorten up the distance between the upper and lower and that in turn would lengthen the throw of the piston. That would enable the plow to lift higher. Looks great though and I expect you will have a ball using it in the near future. Great job!! I sure could use something like this in WI right now. Tooooo much show already and it isn't even winter yet! Merry Christmas, Ted
	"Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17

RockyBottomFarm Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 16 Oct 2011 Location: Fall Creek WI Points: 253	Post Options Post Reply Quote RockyBottomFarm Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 Nov 2011 at 2:30pm
	bump
	38 & 41 B, sickle mower, 2 way plows, rear field cultivator, 2 row drill planter 40 Combine 66 Combine Roto Baler

Bob-Maine Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Central Maine Points: 922	Post Options Post Reply Quote Bob-Maine Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 Nov 2011 at 3:52pm
	Brett, Charlie got it right. If you move the pin at the top of the cylinder closer to the pivot point of the lever, you will have more movement at the end where the chains attach. It just might require a stronger lever. The all you would have to do is change the chain length to have the plow resting in the ground when the cylinder is retracted. Nice looking outfit. I built a plow for my B many years ago and I wouldn't dare put up a picture after seeing yours. Couldn't take the grief I'd get. :>) Bob@allisdowneast
	I used to think I was indecisive, but now I'm not sure.

Don(MI) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 15 Sep 2009 Location: Michigan Points: 3802	Post Options Post Reply Quote Don(MI) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 Nov 2011 at 4:40pm
	Brett, wow thats nice! Let us know how it did last winter for you! I wouldn't worry about the blade height either. Also, those rear tires on that B look good. Grandad has a set on the B at the farm, I like em.
	Galatians 5:22-24 "I got a pig at home in a pen and corn to feed him on, All I need is a pretty little girl to feed him when I'm gone!"