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D14JIM14 
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 Topic: Sickle bar
Posted: 14 Jun 2021 at 1:54pm |
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Best way to get ground off rivets out of sickle bar after grinding off and removing sections .
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 14 Jun 2021 at 1:58pm |
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I use a steel punch.. set a 1/2 inch socket below the bar for support and PUNCH the plug into the socket.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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AC720Man
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Posted: 14 Jun 2021 at 2:29pm |
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That’s the way I did mine also, took me a good while the remove every section because I wanted to put tiger tooth sections on the entire bar. Make life easier for yourself, use the bolt kits to put your new sections on. Makes it much easier to repair in the field also.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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D14JIM14
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Posted: 14 Jun 2021 at 2:39pm |
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Gonna do the bolts if I ever get these driven out . I think I will use drill press to drill the stubborn ones then punch them out!
Thanks Jim
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AC720Man
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Posted: 14 Jun 2021 at 2:43pm |
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It really helps to have a second person to hold the bar while you drive them out. I have also laid it across 2 sections of railroad rail if your lucky enough to have access that.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Oldwrench
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Posted: 14 Jun 2021 at 2:53pm |
I think the easiest and fastest way is to have a large piece of steel block with a square edge, or a heavy vise. Support the backbone of the sickle bar against the steel edge, or loosely held in the vise, and hit it the section to be removed squarely with a 5 lb hammer or similar. The section will shear right off, and the remaining rivet stubs will either fall out our can be easily punched out.
Riveting the new section(s) on, put the two rivets in and support the bar on the the same or another heavy steel block and a few blows with the same hammer will spread the rivets. You might need to put some small wooden blocks under the far ends of the bar, just to keep everything stable and aligned while working on it.
When I was a kid, I used to be able to pull the bar and replace and fix sections pretty quickly if we broke a tooth and didn't have a spare bar. The hammer method is a lot quicker and easier than grinding and drilling the rivets.
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PaulB
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Posted: 14 Jun 2021 at 3:17pm |
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I have one of those knife repair tools. You can remove the knife replace a section and replace the knife quicker that rounding up the tools to do a bolt on section. I've redone a complete 7' knife in just a few minutes.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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automaticdave
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Posted: 14 Jun 2021 at 3:30pm |
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Oldwrench - my Daddy taught me that method of removal 60 yrs ago! It still works today.
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D14JIM14
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Posted: 14 Jun 2021 at 3:51pm |
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I'm using a 5 lb hammer and having one heck of a time driving out the rivets ! I'm gonna grind off other side and drill if I have to .
I knocked off the sections as above as I have many times but rivets are really tight in the holes .
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john(MI)
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Posted: 14 Jun 2021 at 5:41pm |
As was said. Place the section in a vise that is just a little loose with the bar on the vise. Give it a whack with a hammer and everything will fall into pieces. I did a No. 3 blade this way, it took me about an hour to do the entire bar.
Make sure you put the bolts in the correct direction. They are a pain to get back out after they have been tightened. Don't ask how I know that! 
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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wjohn
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Posted: 14 Jun 2021 at 9:06pm |
I kept my eye out for a used Johnson Sickle Servicer for years and finally picked one up nearby for $50. This is not my video but it shows how slick they are when you know how to use them.
If I'm elsewhere and don't have access to mine, then as said above I usually just set the bar across a vise with the jaws slightly open, support the other end, and knock the rivets out with a punch, between the jaws. A socket underneath works too.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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AC720Man
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Posted: 14 Jun 2021 at 9:22pm |
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That’s a slick tool! Yeah would be much easier with that. Sure does a nice job.
My problem is 2 of the fields we mow are 4 miles away, a broken section or loose rivet shuts us down. A lot of wasted time driving back to make a repair. With the bolts, it’s really easy to get back to mowing after a quick repair in the field. This works for us, not saying rivets are a bad thing, just easier and faster. Converted our 390 mower/conditioner also. Thanks for the video because I have never seen one.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Ray54
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Posted: 15 Jun 2021 at 1:52pm |
My experience has been as oldwrench described it. If you shear the rivet it comes out easier. I have taken more than my share of rivets off with chisel and hammer leaving the knife in the machine. Then using a hydraulic jack as back up and hammering rivet, or one of the C clamp screw down rivet sets.
I never owned a Johnson Sickle Service but have taken a knife to someone  that did and replaced all the knife section. With the bolt on method they have lost there appeal, but a real slick tool in there day. But the knife did have come off the header which I have seen be a all day job. At least by the time everything is straightened out so the knife goes back in with less than a big hammer.( more so on a combine head)
Another bit of knife repair that has served me well. If the knife breaks it is most always at the head. Take the broken piece and weld it on the other end of the knife. The weld is then only driving a few cutter section rather than all of them. You probably need a piece from another knife to get all the wholes in the right places and length to be right.
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D14JIM14
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Posted: 16 Jun 2021 at 2:33pm |
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I am totally stumped . I have replaced many sickle bar sickles but never after shearing the sections off not been able to punch out rivets !!!!
I have broken punches , bent punches and after grinding off bot sides . Unless I can find a tool to pass these out I'm done . I have been able to punch some out after heating with a torch .
Any help out there ??
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allisbred
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Posted: 16 Jun 2021 at 2:45pm |
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Sounds like someone may have threaded the holes??
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D14JIM14
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Posted: 16 Jun 2021 at 3:21pm |
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No they were not threaded !!! I finally took the torch and heated the rivets 3 at a time then punched them out !
That was 22 that had to be heated . Now rebuild with bolts . Never rivets again !! Where do I get the longer bolts for the drive end ?
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AC720Man
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Posted: 16 Jun 2021 at 9:32pm |
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TSC and Rural King both sell the complete kit for a 7’ sickle. I’m sorry you had so much trouble. I know the rivets are a nostalgia thing, but time is money. I remember dad always having a spare sickle ready, but pulling a sickle and sliding a new one in takes time and sometimes torn up knuckles. Not a fun job in a field. The bolts have saved me a ton of time and kept from saying bad words lol.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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HudCo
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Posted: 16 Jun 2021 at 10:36pm |
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i did them for many years out on the front of the wd radiator on the frame rail when i broke one out in the feild that was after i used the spare knife wired to the frame rail , i just used a hammer punch and chiesel, i would have got sent back out to the feild with a pair of hand clippers if i would have went back to the yard just to change a section. each night we pulled out the knife and the spare and brought them in to sharpen so we started out sharp each day. we custom cut and baled when i was young
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LionelinKY
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Posted: 17 Jun 2021 at 3:25am |
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Dad had a 2 sided tool that he used all the time on the haybine. 1 side punched out the rivets and the other side pressed in the new rivets. Used a socket and ratchet to work. Also worked right in the haybine without the need to remove the sickle bar.
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"My name is Lionel and I'm an Allisoholic"
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D14JIM14
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Posted: 17 Jun 2021 at 8:22am |
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I got sections and shorter bolts at TSC but didnt find the longer ones .
Thought about regular bowls and grinding head to rounded shape . Using lock nuts .
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D14JIM14
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Posted: 17 Jun 2021 at 8:25am |
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Bolts not bowls !
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allisbred
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Posted: 17 Jun 2021 at 8:34am |
 HudCo wrote:
i did them for many years out on the front of the wd radiator on the frame rail when i broke one out in the feild that was after i used the spare knife wired to the frame rail , i just used a hammer punch and chiesel, i would have got sent back out to the feild with a pair of hand clippers if i would have went back to the yard just to change a section. each night we pulled out the knife and the spare and brought them in to sharpen so we started out sharp each day. we custom cut and baled when i was young |
Glad to see I’m not the only one that used the work bench on the front of the WD gas tractors!
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ac fleet
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Posted: 17 Jun 2021 at 10:44am |
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Never had any trouble with rivets and still use/prefer them today.
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http://machinebuildersnetwork.com/
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D14JIM14
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Posted: 17 Jun 2021 at 11:56am |
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Dad had one of those tools like lionel talked about . I had it when I farmed and used it on my combine sickle . Wish I had it now !
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 17 Jun 2021 at 11:57am |
I bought a BOX of LONG bolts on e-bay 2 years ago...
Edited by steve(ill) - 17 Jun 2021 at 12:00pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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AC720Man
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Posted: 20 Jun 2021 at 4:44pm |
 Took me less than 6 minutes to replace these 2 sections since I had used bolts. Like I said earlier, it’s just the convenience of how fast they can be replaced versus rivets.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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AC720Man
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Posted: 20 Jun 2021 at 9:51pm |
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Should also have stated the sickle stayed in the bar. Removed the one tie down and rotated the belt to access the nuts.
Edited by AC720Man - 20 Jun 2021 at 9:52pm
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 21 Jun 2021 at 12:07am |
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Down side to rivet use is not stretching bar from too much/too hard pounding. It's a science.
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