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Sugarmaker View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2020 at 1:35pm
Folks,
 Ok I am ready to discuss interior wall coverings. I would like to have the wall where my stairs go done before I put in the stairs. So I am considering cost effective functional options for the walls. Maybe even two materials? Bottom more water and or wear resistant and the upper not so much?

Anyway todays activities included securing the 6 inch and 4 inch drain pipe and fittings for the eve drains to be piped out to the ditch. Glad I have a trailer. It worked well. 

Also had the 2B stone delivered from local gravel company:
That should work in the trench around the perfeorated drains to move some ground water too:

The local gutter guys showed up and completed the leaf guard on the house. Something I have been wanting to do for years. An aluminum perforated 4 foot long shield that is fastened on with stainless screws.

Then it was a short nap and have begun to think about the wall coverings. What works for you or what would you like to have or consider good coverings with out going broke?
I need to go get some insulation material (fiberglass 2 foot wide R19) for this one wall too. 
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tadams(OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2020 at 2:23pm
Unless OSB is cheaper over there than it is here I sure wouldn't  use it because of cost. It went from $6.00 per sheet to $29.00 around here. A friend of mine said he's going with drywall and maybe cover bottom with the plastic like they use in milkhouse and milking parolors.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave in PA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2020 at 3:03pm
On the bottom section, I would use RFP, Reinforced Fiberglass Panels, the 1/16" white plastic looking stuff you see at Home Depot. But it is about $34 a sheet, 4 x 8, and needs a backer.  So the cost is a issue there!  Metal roofing is good, but the cost will be close as RFP when done. Just a thought here, you could do this, BUT it is not very impact resistant, as you well know.  Put up drywall or osb. for the cost cutter, paint it with Red-Gard, a water proofing used for exterior walls, and interior showers, yes it is red, then paint it as you wish.  You will need to hold the ply/drywall up off the concrete about 1/4" , to keep the crete from wicking moisture up, and caulk it with a good quality caulk, the apply the coatings. It will give a textured look to it, from the rolled on Red-Gard. But no matter what you use on the bottom, it is only as good as it can be, pending the amount of water, installation, etc.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2020 at 3:13pm
I know, kinda late but I always thought 3 course of 8" cinderblock (24" tall) THEN the wooden walls would be nice.
sorry...
how about white steel 'roofing' panels, done vertically ? It's clean, should last forever, and glossy white really brightens up the stairwell.....
anything made of $$$ wood will rot....maybe 'water resistant drywall' won't break the bank ???(keep OFF off floor though).


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2020 at 3:28pm
we used 1/2 inch CDX plywood... at the bottom i ran a 1 x 6 pressure treated board horizontal, then set the plywood on top... worked out good because the wall was 8'6" tall.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2020 at 7:49pm
Thanks Guys for the suggestions on the interior surfacing. I have not made up my mind and the options and cost will be factors too. Including toughness and water resistance.
Not that it will be a car wash, but may get wet at some point. I didnt realize those milkhouse panels were quite that expensive. But everything in the building trades is going crazy. 
I need to go look at and maybe get some of the white liner panels in steel. Yes as mentioned the cost may be about the same as other material. But I like the moisture resistance factor near the floor. My pressure treated skirt board is 2 inches above the concrete, so any  interior wall material could be above the concrete 1 inch to 2 inches.
Also my walls are about 10 feet from the floor to bottom of truss. So I could in theory have a 2 foot high water resistant lower area,  maybe the white steel liner panels and then 8 foot of soft material like drywall above??? I would need to put girts on the walls to cover the header boards with drywall as they are attached to the posts.
Hummm? 
Regards,
 Chris


Edited by Sugarmaker - 16 Oct 2020 at 7:59pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2020 at 8:00pm
Originally posted by jaybmiller jaybmiller wrote:

I know, kinda late but I always thought 3 course of 8" cinderblock (24" tall) THEN the wooden walls would be nice.
sorry...
how about white steel 'roofing' panels, done vertically ? It's clean, should last forever, and glossy white really brightens up the stairwell.....
anything made of $$$ wood will rot....maybe 'water resistant drywall' won't break the bank ???(keep OFF off floor though).



There is always a logical person in the bunch too! Thanks Jay! I did consider that but did not get any quotes on the block work. What would the estimated cost of that be? I still would be wrestling with what the materials on the inside walls would be. I think the steel panels maybe the way to go at least for the bottom 2 foot. How thick are those? Maybe 3/4 inch??
Regards,
 Chris


Edited by Sugarmaker - 16 Oct 2020 at 8:05pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2020 at 8:40pm
Originally posted by shameless dude shameless dude wrote:

another thing i did when i had my Astro building built...made sure the doors on it locked from the "inside". there was a reason for that!
You haven't been fightin' with the shareholders again have you? Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JohnColo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2020 at 9:09pm
I don't think the fight ever ends...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hd1937 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Oct 2020 at 5:24am
Chris,
There is an Amish metal shop about 5 miles from me and another one in Atlantic, Pa. The one in Atlantic is where I got the roofing for the sugarhouse. He carries a lot of other stuff and custom bends too.

Here’s the ad from the Area Shopper.


Edited by hd1937 - 17 Oct 2020 at 5:48am
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Sugarmaker View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Oct 2020 at 8:36pm
Jim,
 Thanks! I have made a decision on the wall covering inside. I think I am going to go with a pine tongue and groove type material. 
I have started to add the girts to attach the inside materials. 
The overhead doors are scheduled for next week. Some additional wood is required around the inside of the doors due to the large one being a little undersize.
Today was test the concrete day. :





one of my first projects, Grease guards for the 272.

Girls:



Regards,
 Chris


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Oct 2020 at 11:07pm
Looks awesome Chris! Still some interior work to do as you've mentioned, but it appears to be pretty functional by now if you can keep a dry roof over things.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shameless dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct 2020 at 12:23am
fony Christmas trees in the upper level?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hd1937 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct 2020 at 9:47am
Chris,
That vice you redid looks great on that steel table!

Edited by hd1937 - 18 Oct 2020 at 9:49am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct 2020 at 7:10pm
Folks,
Jim, Yes the vice had to have a shop build for it! Starting to bring some things in from the house garage too.
Shameless, Those things in the loft are the short run tubing systems that I have to take down after maple season. 

Our builder stopped by and installed the vent in the roof. Thanks Brian!


Tractors have been huddling together:

I have two of the doors with the framing around them to allow the interior wall materials to be fastened. I may trim the inside of the door jams where the tracks will be mounted with more of the Azack material 6 inches wide.


The plan is to insulate the walls horizontally:

Regards,
 Chris



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tadams(OH) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tadams(OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 2:05pm
Looks like it's too late to do the interior walls the shed is full. I like the idea of tongue and groove interior.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 8:03pm
I like the concrete block idea from Jay, but I wouldn't use 8" blocks because you'd have to cover up the top with 2x8's and then put the wall on top of that.
Here are prices from our Menards
8 x 8 x 16 Standard Concrete Block    $1.00  (This is what Jay is referring to.)

4 x 8 x 16 Standard Concrete Block    $0.80  (these are smooth all the way around.)  If your walls are going to be made out of 2x4's, I'd go with these.  Now all you need is a mixer to make your own mud and then learn how to lay block.  Just another thing that I learned and laid a LOT of them in my time, so if I can learn, I KNOW you can...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 9:29pm
Folks,
 Well, the block foundation is not going to happen on this build! Maybe the next one??
Spent part of the day in the dentist office getting two new crowns. That was the easy part.

Stopped at local lumber yard to see if they had 1 x 6. Yes they did but as I told them what I was doing they suggested 1 x 6 primed. Took a look at it and thought it might work good so brought what they had home and got the 16 foot door jam covered on the inside with it. Looks similar to the Azeck stuff. This will allow the overhead doors to be mounted to something that is closer to being finished. I will have to butt up to it with what every I put on the walls.
Speaking of wall material. I have changed direction a little and am now leaning towards wainscoting the bottom 3 foot with white steel liner panels. Then the top would be planed vertical wood. Hemlock ship lap or pine tongue and groove?
So I spent the rest of the day framing around the doors for the nailers for interior insulation and wall coverings.
Will trim out the other doors till the primed material runs out. Should have some more Wed.
Regards,
 Chris



Edited by Sugarmaker - 19 Oct 2020 at 9:31pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Strokendiesel002 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct 2020 at 4:04pm
Now that's a beautiful interior in the making! What color are you thinking for stain?

The outside turned out really nice! The drone pics were really cool!

Thank you for taking us on this journey with you :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct 2020 at 5:19pm
I'd recommend a light whitewash stain, will make the inside lighter, and easier to see what you're workin on...Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ac hunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct 2020 at 7:00pm
     You sure have a dream shop there. Lots of houses aren't that nice. Of course you will be spending a lot of time there working on that orange machinery. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct 2020 at 8:39pm
Folks,
 Thanks for the comments!  And you guys are welcome! I have enjoyed the build!  
I had not thought of a whitewash look on the interior. But that would make it lighter than natural wood. Will have to think on that one!
Picked up more of the small head finish screws and another piece of the primed wood. 

Here is the final look for the doors trimmed out on the inside. Way more work than I had anticipated! Plus some dollars too. But I think this will make the door install easier and more finished!

Rain and drizzle all day so tomorrow we dig the french drains and install the 4 inch and 6 inch drains for the downspouts.

Yes looking forward to some projects to get the floor dirty too with some orange stuff too!

Regards,
 Chris



Edited by Sugarmaker - 20 Oct 2020 at 8:56pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct 2020 at 2:00pm
Yer gittin there Chris.  Sure wish I had one that nice.  I'd move in! 
You just need a stove, a fridge for food and one for beer, a bed, and a bar. LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct 2020 at 8:17pm
Ted,
 Thanks! I wold like to have a fridge in there too.
Still raining today so all drain work was postponed. I worked on adding inside girts. Moved the electrical panel up and out to have it in correct position for the final wall material.

 Adam helped me noodle out the layout for the bathroom area. I may enlarge it by 2 feet for the width. This would allow the door to be re positioned and provide a little more elbow room too.

Moved the temporary electrical outlet to 48 inch off the floor and out to be surrounded by finished sheeting.

I found the D17! Fired right up. It has been neglected all summer!
(Ooops had the wrong picture here! Was tired when I posted.)

Hope things are good in Orange land

Regards,
Chris


Edited by Sugarmaker - 22 Oct 2020 at 12:24am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Strokendiesel002 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct 2020 at 8:28pm
Looking good!

All the outlets in my garage, I set the bottom hight at 50" off the floor. Well, I measured 50" at each corner and snapped a line down the wall.

Found the D17? Where was she?!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JohnColo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct 2020 at 8:49pm
Did she know she was lost?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Oct 2020 at 12:17am
Stroken, John, Folks,
I have been trying to use a chalk line more. Some times I dont and get things out of whack. Still learning as I build. Grandson said 48 inches to top of outlets was what he uses. Now that maybe code for a house. In the shop anything goes.

The D17 wasnt really lost it was parked at our daughters place all year. Rhett wanted to go fishing over there so I had the chance to start and move it. I need to get it home for the winter. She has someone plow her snow so it doesn't need to set over there all winter. In fact I could put on the blade and use it to plow snow here too.  Should find a good set of chains for it. They are about useless with out chains in our area. Its hard on them setting out like that too. They get some black mold growing on them?

A friend was talking with me about spray foam insulation in the shop walls. He said 2 inches would be all that would be required. Comments about spray foam?? Costs? I was planning to use R19 bats in the walls, and R39 bats in the ceilings.

I did some cans of spray foam around a couple of the windows. I found I dont need much because it oozes out all over, and I also found that it doesnt stick to the vinyl window. Which is good.

Getting ready to cut out the bottom of the truss that is in the stair well area soon. Still measuring and doing real life layout work!:)

Regards,
 Chris




Edited by Sugarmaker - 22 Oct 2020 at 12:20am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Oct 2020 at 5:41am
If I had my choice, I'd spray foam. Insulation is like PEX in the concrete floor. You've got ONE chance to do it RIGHT, the 1st time !
Late friend did his 40x60 shop, FILLED the walls, similar to yours(6-8" thick ?) Itty bitty woodstove heated the entire shop. neighbour had his basement foamed, $3 a foot, good deal he said, I don't know as my garage refurb is in 'Lala land'.....Foam totally seals ALL the knooks and cracks and seams and NO wind get in.No need for vapour barrier either,so saves that money for material and labour AND time. Odds are real good you'll need more receptacles, here or there, so I'd foam, sheet, then run conduit for power. Im my basement I ran  1by6 strapping which hid the horizontal drywall joint 4' off the ground, mounted 3/4" EMT metal conduit to it. That was 35 years ago...my basement became wife's woodworking shop.......
Foam is easy to apply..just cut a check, batts (MUST be roxul, NOT pink)are messy, itchy and never ,ever fit perfect and you have to wrestle with the vapour barrier...grrrrr.
I'd expect at LEAST an R20 for the wall, the ceiling...use blown in Roxul and R30-40.
The 'tighter' the building, the less the boiler/PEX will have to work......

Jay


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Oct 2020 at 7:56am
I went batt fiberglass in my shop, did not want Air Tight as foam could make also did not put much of anything Inside the walls where if need to change configuration just pull the conduit or extend a conduit and used Tin inside as do perform some serious welding/grinding where is Less prone to spark acceptance.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Oct 2020 at 7:57am
Exposed conduit is not as Pretty but for myself was much more functional inside a building not many others will see.
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