| Author |
|
Sugarmaker 
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8527
|
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote  Reply
 Posted: 20 Oct 2020 at 8:39pm |
Folks, Thanks for the comments! And you guys are welcome! I have enjoyed the build! I had not thought of a whitewash look on the interior. But that would make it lighter than natural wood. Will have to think on that one! Picked up more of the small head finish screws and another piece of the primed wood.
Here is the final look for the doors trimmed out on the inside. Way more work than I had anticipated! Plus some dollars too. But I think this will make the door install easier and more finished!
Rain and drizzle all day so tomorrow we dig the french drains and install the 4 inch and 6 inch drains for the downspouts.
Yes looking forward to some projects to get the floor dirty too with some orange stuff too!
Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 20 Oct 2020 at 8:56pm
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
 |
|
Sponsored Links
|
|
|
ac hunter
Orange Level
Joined: 05 Jan 2011
Location: OHIO
Points: 1051
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20 Oct 2020 at 7:00pm |
|
You sure have a dream shop there. Lots of houses aren't that nice. Of course you will be spending a lot of time there working on that orange machinery.
|
|
DiyDave
Orange Level Access
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
Points: 54153
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20 Oct 2020 at 5:19pm |
I'd recommend a light whitewash stain, will make the inside lighter, and easier to see what you're workin on... 
|
|
Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!
|
|
Strokendiesel002
Silver Level
Joined: 04 Apr 2019
Location: 53158
Points: 252
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20 Oct 2020 at 4:04pm |
|
Now that's a beautiful interior in the making! What color are you thinking for stain?
The outside turned out really nice! The drone pics were really cool!
Thank you for taking us on this journey with you :)
|
|
Sugarmaker
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8527
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 9:29pm |
Folks, Well, the block foundation is not going to happen on this build! Maybe the next one?? Spent part of the day in the dentist office getting two new crowns. That was the easy part.
Stopped at local lumber yard to see if they had 1 x 6. Yes they did but as I told them what I was doing they suggested 1 x 6 primed. Took a look at it and thought it might work good so brought what they had home and got the 16 foot door jam covered on the inside with it. Looks similar to the Azeck stuff. This will allow the overhead doors to be mounted to something that is closer to being finished. I will have to butt up to it with what every I put on the walls. Speaking of wall material. I have changed direction a little and am now leaning towards wainscoting the bottom 3 foot with white steel liner panels. Then the top would be planed vertical wood. Hemlock ship lap or pine tongue and groove? So I spent the rest of the day framing around the doors for the nailers for interior insulation and wall coverings. Will trim out the other doors till the primed material runs out. Should have some more Wed. Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 19 Oct 2020 at 9:31pm
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
Ted J
Orange Level
Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Location: La Crosse, WI
Points: 18943
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 8:03pm |
|
I like the concrete block idea from Jay, but I wouldn't use 8" blocks because you'd have to cover up the top with 2x8's and then put the wall on top of that.
Here are prices from our Menards
8 x 8 x 16 Standard Concrete Block $1.00 (This is what Jay is referring to.)
4 x 8 x 16 Standard Concrete Block $0.80 (these are smooth all the way around.) If your walls are going to be made out of 2x4's, I'd go with these. Now all you need is a mixer to make your own mud and then learn how to lay block. Just another thing that I learned and laid a LOT of them in my time, so if I can learn, I KNOW you can...
|
|
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
|
|
tadams(OH)
Orange Level Access
Joined: 17 Sep 2009
Location: Jeromesville, O
Points: 10918
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 2:05pm |
|
Looks like it's too late to do the interior walls the shed is full. I like the idea of tongue and groove interior.
|
|
Sugarmaker
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8527
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18 Oct 2020 at 7:10pm |
Folks, Jim, Yes the vice had to have a shop build for it! Starting to bring some things in from the house garage too. Shameless, Those things in the loft are the short run tubing systems that I have to take down after maple season.
Our builder stopped by and installed the vent in the roof. Thanks Brian!
Tractors have been huddling together:
I have two of the doors with the framing around them to allow the interior wall materials to be fastened. I may trim the inside of the door jams where the tracks will be mounted with more of the Azack material 6 inches wide.
The plan is to insulate the walls horizontally:
Regards, Chris
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
hd1937
Bronze Level
Joined: 25 Jul 2014
Location: Linesville, PA
Points: 19
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18 Oct 2020 at 9:47am |
|
Chris,
That vice you redid looks great on that steel table!
Edited by hd1937 - 18 Oct 2020 at 9:49am
|
|
shameless dude
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Apr 2017
Location: east NE
Points: 13607
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18 Oct 2020 at 12:23am |
|
fony Christmas trees in the upper level?
|
|
wjohn
Orange Level
Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 2223
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 17 Oct 2020 at 11:07pm |
|
Looks awesome Chris! Still some interior work to do as you've mentioned, but it appears to be pretty functional by now if you can keep a dry roof over things.
|
|
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
|
|
Sugarmaker
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8527
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 17 Oct 2020 at 8:36pm |
Jim, Thanks! I have made a decision on the wall covering inside. I think I am going to go with a pine tongue and groove type material. I have started to add the girts to attach the inside materials. The overhead doors are scheduled for next week. Some additional wood is required around the inside of the doors due to the large one being a little undersize. Today was test the concrete day. :
one of my first projects, Grease guards for the 272.
Girls:
Regards, Chris
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
hd1937
Bronze Level
Joined: 25 Jul 2014
Location: Linesville, PA
Points: 19
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 17 Oct 2020 at 5:24am |
Chris, There is an Amish metal shop about 5 miles from me and another one in Atlantic, Pa. The one in Atlantic is where I got the roofing for the sugarhouse. He carries a lot of other stuff and custom bends too. Here’s the ad from the Area Shopper. 
Edited by hd1937 - 17 Oct 2020 at 5:48am
|
|
JohnColo
Orange Level
Joined: 03 Apr 2020
Location: Niwot, CO
Points: 1263
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Oct 2020 at 9:09pm |
|
I don't think the fight ever ends...
|
|
Brian Jasper co. Ia
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Prairie City Ia
Points: 10508
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Oct 2020 at 8:40pm |
 shameless dude wrote:
another thing i did when i had my Astro building built...made sure the doors on it locked from the "inside". there was a reason for that! |
You haven't been fightin' with the shareholders again have you?
|
|
"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
|
|
Sugarmaker
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8527
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Oct 2020 at 8:00pm |
jaybmiller wrote:
I know, kinda late but I always thought 3 course of 8" cinderblock (24" tall) THEN the wooden walls would be nice. sorry... how about white steel 'roofing' panels, done vertically ? It's clean, should last forever, and glossy white really brightens up the stairwell..... anything made of $$$ wood will rot....maybe 'water resistant drywall' won't break the bank ???(keep OFF off floor though).
|
There is always a logical person in the bunch too! Thanks Jay! I did consider that but did not get any quotes on the block work. What would the estimated cost of that be? I still would be wrestling with what the materials on the inside walls would be. I think the steel panels maybe the way to go at least for the bottom 2 foot. How thick are those? Maybe 3/4 inch?? Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 16 Oct 2020 at 8:05pm
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
Sugarmaker
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8527
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Oct 2020 at 7:49pm |
Thanks Guys for the suggestions on the interior surfacing. I have not made up my mind and the options and cost will be factors too. Including toughness and water resistance. Not that it will be a car wash, but may get wet at some point. I didnt realize those milkhouse panels were quite that expensive. But everything in the building trades is going crazy. I need to go look at and maybe get some of the white liner panels in steel. Yes as mentioned the cost may be about the same as other material. But I like the moisture resistance factor near the floor. My pressure treated skirt board is 2 inches above the concrete, so any interior wall material could be above the concrete 1 inch to 2 inches. Also my walls are about 10 feet from the floor to bottom of truss. So I could in theory have a 2 foot high water resistant lower area, maybe the white steel liner panels and then 8 foot of soft material like drywall above??? I would need to put girts on the walls to cover the header boards with drywall as they are attached to the posts. Hummm? Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 16 Oct 2020 at 7:59pm
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
steve(ill)
Orange Level Access
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 87928
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Oct 2020 at 3:28pm |
|
we used 1/2 inch CDX plywood... at the bottom i ran a 1 x 6 pressure treated board horizontal, then set the plywood on top... worked out good because the wall was 8'6" tall.
|
|
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
|
|
jaybmiller
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 24704
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Oct 2020 at 3:13pm |
I know, kinda late but I always thought 3 course of 8" cinderblock (24" tall) THEN the wooden walls would be nice. sorry... how about white steel 'roofing' panels, done vertically ? It's clean, should last forever, and glossy white really brightens up the stairwell..... anything made of $$$ wood will rot....maybe 'water resistant drywall' won't break the bank ???(keep OFF off floor though).
|
|
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
|
|
Dave in PA
Orange Level
Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Mars/Wexford PA
Points: 2628
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Oct 2020 at 3:03pm |
|
On the bottom section, I would use RFP, Reinforced Fiberglass Panels, the 1/16" white plastic looking stuff you see at Home Depot. But it is about $34 a sheet, 4 x 8, and needs a backer. So the cost is a issue there! Metal roofing is good, but the cost will be close as RFP when done. Just a thought here, you could do this, BUT it is not very impact resistant, as you well know. Put up drywall or osb. for the cost cutter, paint it with Red-Gard, a water proofing used for exterior walls, and interior showers, yes it is red, then paint it as you wish. You will need to hold the ply/drywall up off the concrete about 1/4" , to keep the crete from wicking moisture up, and caulk it with a good quality caulk, the apply the coatings. It will give a textured look to it, from the rolled on Red-Gard. But no matter what you use on the bottom, it is only as good as it can be, pending the amount of water, installation, etc.
|
|
tadams(OH)
Orange Level Access
Joined: 17 Sep 2009
Location: Jeromesville, O
Points: 10918
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Oct 2020 at 2:23pm |
|
Unless OSB is cheaper over there than it is here I sure wouldn't use it because of cost. It went from $6.00 per sheet to $29.00 around here. A friend of mine said he's going with drywall and maybe cover bottom with the plastic like they use in milkhouse and milking parolors.
|
|
Sugarmaker
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8527
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Oct 2020 at 1:35pm |
Folks, Ok I am ready to discuss interior wall coverings. I would like to have the wall where my stairs go done before I put in the stairs. So I am considering cost effective functional options for the walls. Maybe even two materials? Bottom more water and or wear resistant and the upper not so much?
Anyway todays activities included securing the 6 inch and 4 inch drain pipe and fittings for the eve drains to be piped out to the ditch. Glad I have a trailer. It worked well.
Also had the 2B stone delivered from local gravel company: That should work in the trench around the perfeorated drains to move some ground water too:
The local gutter guys showed up and completed the leaf guard on the house. Something I have been wanting to do for years. An aluminum perforated 4 foot long shield that is fastened on with stainless screws.
Then it was a short nap and have begun to think about the wall coverings. What works for you or what would you like to have or consider good coverings with out going broke? I need to go get some insulation material (fiberglass 2 foot wide R19) for this one wall too. Regards, Chris
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
Sugarmaker
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8527
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Oct 2020 at 7:39am |
Thad, Thanks! Jay, Folks, That is the method and depth that the propane folks put it in at. About a foot deep with their digger machine. I did not run a trace line. was not familiar with that. Yes there is always a chance someone could hit anything here. I ave things going all over the place now!  Just ordered the 2B stone for the drainage around the shop and will pick up the pipe for the down spout work also. Not sure when this digging will be complete? maybe next week? Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 16 Oct 2020 at 7:48am
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
jaybmiller
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 24704
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Oct 2020 at 5:50am |
more PROGRESS...! My only concern is how shallow the gaslines are... I'd sure hate to hear how you 'found' one while creating a new flowerbed...... BTW did you run a 'tracer' wire with the plastic gasline ?? Sorry, too late to ask.....
Jay
|
|
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
|
|
Thad in AR.
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Arkansas
Points: 9659
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Oct 2020 at 4:51am |
Sugarmaker wrote:
Guys,
Propane install tomorrow. Used 1 inch conduit for the plastic propane line.
Stubbed out the 3/4 line for the shop:
Also stubbed out a 1/2 inch black pipe in the sugarhouse, for a potential ventless heater.
Couple Allis shots:
Pumpkin carving time. Rhett and I teamed up to do long neck dinosour.
Also went to local lumber yard and picked up the 2 x 12 x 18 foot long stair stringers (3) and a 2 x 8 x 20 for above the 16 foot door for the trolley opener to fasten too. Picked up a new Stanley 30 foot tape measure. As I aggressively tried to get it out of the plastic pack, the belt clip on the back broke off. The plastic pack was stronger than the stainless clip. Now that just doesnt make sense!
Regards, Chris
|
Wow things are really lookin good Chris. Nice nice work and an artist as well. Job well done.
|
|
shameless dude
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Apr 2017
Location: east NE
Points: 13607
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 15 Oct 2020 at 11:46pm |
|
another thing i did when i had my Astro building built...made sure the doors on it locked from the "inside". there was a reason for that!
|
|
Sugarmaker
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8527
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 15 Oct 2020 at 8:28pm |
Folks, The propane company arrived as expected and set the new tank, cut in the three lines. and were out of here in a couple hours. I like the location of the new tank.
Did I mention that we hit the drain for the sugarhouse and took out the electric line that fed the camper too. That was yesterday with the back hoe, while digging across the drive. Had to run and get some fittings to fix that. Added a clean out and cleaned (snaked) out the drain while it was open too.
at the shop:
at the sugarhouse:
at the house:
Also called my dirt guy and he arrived and backed filled everything. He also gave me a list of the drain components for the down spouts to take the water to the road ditch. Will try to pick that up tomorrow or Monday.
Finished the screws in the hemlock siding tonight at dark thirty. Builder will do my roof vent for the septic when I get ready.
Several visitors today, including Rosie from Discount Log homes where I got the stain for the hemlock!
Gutter guy will be back to add leaf guard to the house and garage. Getting too old to be climbing up to clean out the gutters!
Thanks for checking on me. Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 15 Oct 2020 at 8:37pm
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
Sugarmaker
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8527
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 14 Oct 2020 at 8:21pm |
Guys,
Propane install tomorrow. Used 1 inch conduit for the plastic propane line.
Stubbed out the 3/4 line for the shop:
Also stubbed out a 1/2 inch black pipe in the sugarhouse, for a potential ventless heater.
Couple Allis shots:
Pumpkin carving time. Rhett and I teamed up to do long neck dinosour.
Also went to local lumber yard and picked up the 2 x 12 x 18 foot long stair stringers (3) and a 2 x 8 x 20 for above the 16 foot door for the trolley opener to fasten too. Picked up a new Stanley 30 foot tape measure. As I aggressively tried to get it out of the plastic pack, the belt clip on the back broke off. The plastic pack was stronger than the stainless clip. Now that just doesnt make sense!
Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 14 Oct 2020 at 8:34pm
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
Sugarmaker
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8527
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 13 Oct 2020 at 7:41pm |
I knew a plummer would come along. So I do plan to vent out the shop roof. Have 2 inch sch 40 vent stack now connected to the 3 inch drain that goes from the shop and ties in to the existing septic drain. Anyway, I think it will work fine, and allow me to vent the sinks also. 
Connection at the back of the house about 110 feet of run:
Maggie saw everyone else digging so she had to get in on the action too.
We put in the 2 inch vertical vent "T" up in between the skirt boards in the wall, and reduced the 4 inch main drain to 3 inch and put in the clean out "T" wit a stub up to ground level, with a screw on cap:
I did have time to get the girls lined up for a glamour shot: I don't get Nic's tractor over here often to stay over night, It sounds way better with the straight pipe than my 45!
Should finish this sewer line tomorrow. Just in time for the new propane tank and lines to be installed on Thursday. The last digging project will be to put in drain lines for the down spouts and a small catch basin located in the edge of the drive way between the shop and the attached house garage. I want to tie in the house garage down spouts to that drain that will go to the road ditch also. That might be 6 inch perforated line I believe. The trench will have 2 B stone in it I believe to help drain the drive. The east side of the building will get one line for the downspouts too, a small slope to the road for yard water run off, and a new short driveway to the east door. Hummm, after saying that I guess there is some more work and costs involved in the infrastructure and work to be done!
Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 14 Oct 2020 at 5:45am
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
plummerscarin
Orange Level Access
Joined: 22 Jun 2015
Location: ia
Points: 3926
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 13 Oct 2020 at 6:54am |
|
Building traps were a stop gap design to prevent sewer odors entering the building before proper vent systems came into being. Uniform code only allows them where jurisdiction requires them and they must also be vented. I understand your desire to not cut a hole in the roof for a proper vent but it is necessary. If your jurisdiction allows, International code does approve venting out a sidwall.
|
|
Topic Options
