Replacing axle seals on a wc

I have completely disassembled my wc all but the rearend should I pull it apart and replace the seals? How hard is this to do? Also can I find a factory made cover to replace the cultivator lift?

On my 1934 WC which i restored in 2009 I replaced the donut seals on it, and I got them through agco, they are no longer cork, but rubber now.

I am resealing mine now, I got mine from Sandy lake. I am replacing the big donut hub seals, both inner axle seals wich seal up the brake drum are from the differential side and the final drive side. When these leak it drips out the holes at the bottom of the axle knees where the hub axles are mounted. Every WC I have seen leaks there.There are cork gaskets between the big round bull gear plate and the cast housing and a gasket for the final drive cover that holds the donut seal. One of the inner seals requires a steel adapter because the hole back in the axle housing is about 2 inches bigger than the new seals. They are $60 a side, donuts $50 a side, I think I spent a little over $200 but I am making the $60 adapters myself. All these parts are probably about $300. If you are going to restore and paint it is definately worth the money. You will regret not doing it after you paint and oil is running all over it causing it to lift your paint, I know from experiance. I find it amazing that agco still offers parts for 70 year old tractors. JM

Thad, check your mail

Another vote for Sandy Lake.

Do you have a part number for the seal that goes between the differential and the brakes? I can’t seem to find it at any auto parts stores because it’s such an odd size.

I still have a few NOS seals available that are the large OD that do not require the spacer