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Dr.Fiero 
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Joined: 11 Oct 2013
Location: AB, Canada
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 Topic: Refurbing my '66 BigTen
Posted: 13 Oct 2013 at 12:16pm |
I've had this machine for about 15 years or so, and it's sat for the last dozen I think!
About 5 years ago, I also scored a matching machine that I was going to use for parts - though now I'm thinking I might 'hot rod' the 2nd one with a spare 2 cyl (24hp? can't remember) that I have, since the stock engine tossed a rod through the block.
Anyhow... the stocker was in decent, but very neglected shape (it was bad when I got it!). Have the snow blade, mower deck, and roto tiller attachments for it (and would love to get a snow blower too if anyone has one!).
As I've been refurbing it, I've made a few improvements. Having a reasonable machine shop in my garage helps. ;)
Didn't like the "tie rod ends", so I made up these greasable ones: Not shown is the washer under the bolt head, and the one between the two arms.
With no actual nut on the front wheel spindles, the was no way to tighten down the tapered roller bears, so swapped them out for roller bearings.
While not an improvement... the transmission input pulley (the 7" one at the back right) had spun on the shaft (one keyway was about 12 o'clock, the other about 4!). You wanna talk stuck?! Took me 3-4 hours of various assault techniques to finally pull it off! :D
New front tires are on. New rear tires are on order (yes, that's one of the trashed ones under it).
Tore the engine down and refreshed it (might do more some day).
Blasted all the panels, and anything else that I felt like taking off and repainted it (New Cat yellow or gloss black).
Welded up the holes in the dash, and moved/changed things around. Ditched the ammeter, and switched to voltage, then added a tach. Since the twin slider controls were pretty much botched, I'm switching them to a pair of pull types (unless someone has a better idea - that ones not finished). Also went from the separate 'ign' and 'start' to a consolidated switch, firing an actual solenoid. This is a work in progress so no pictures. :)
Anyhow - just thought I'd share!
Edited by Dr.Fiero - 13 Oct 2013 at 8:44pm
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Dr.Fiero
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Joined: 11 Oct 2013
Location: AB, Canada
Points: 72
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Posted: 13 Oct 2013 at 8:49pm |
Ummm... yeah.... so it turns out that a 7" is a touch large. Oops. Kind of hard to get a reading off that old one!
Oh well - needed a new belt anyhow. 5L420 came off, 5L440 going on (experimental!).
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Dr.Fiero
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Posted: 14 Oct 2013 at 10:56pm |
Yup - 5L440 fit like a glove with THAT pulley (otherwise, use a 5L420!).
Good grab without too much tension on the idler, and still releases nicely.
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Dr.Fiero
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Posted: 19 Oct 2013 at 12:10am |
Here's a before and during of the dashboard:
More to come, as it's all going back together. :)
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Current slow rides: '65 Big Ten, '79 JD 317
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Bigcxjet
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Location: Kentucky
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Posted: 19 Oct 2013 at 11:31am |
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Hi Dr Fiero,
I have decided to restore my 1965 big ten my dad bought new. Have just started to research parts. It's in great shape but need a few parts to make it look like new. Any suggestions on where to find a seat, gas cap, decals, etc. I like the new dash you made. Any suggestions you could give me is appreciated.
Thanks, bigcxjet
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Gary
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Peterborough,On
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Posted: 19 Oct 2013 at 12:04pm |
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Link to a website for Decals:
Gary
http://maplehunterdecalstexas.com/allischalmers.aspx?page=2
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omahagreg
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Posted: 19 Oct 2013 at 12:12pm |
Wells Implement in Plymouth Nebraska was my Grandpas Allis dealer. They have a web page for parts for the B lawn mowers. http://www.wellsimplement.com/bseries.htm
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Greg Kroeker
1950 WD with wide front and Freeman trip loader
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Dr.Fiero
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Posted: 19 Oct 2013 at 4:39pm |
I'm just working with the guys at this place to convert this kit into a BigTen:
Thanks on the dash. That's the stock one (at this moment) cleaned up!. I'll should be able to post back the updates in the next day or so after I've finished the mods.
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Current slow rides: '65 Big Ten, '79 JD 317
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Bigcxjet
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Posted: 20 Oct 2013 at 7:29am |
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Wow that's looks great
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Dr.Fiero
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Posted: 20 Oct 2013 at 11:33pm |
Here's a plug sitting in the now unused hole for the key:
That got welded in, and ground flush (material came from cutting out the tach hole!). Ditto for the one where the starter button was. Ignition/start key is getting moved to the side.
Second (new) large hole is for the tach. On that note! Even if you order up an Equus 6086 tach, make sure it's the right version. The one they advertise on the website says it works with 1-12 cyl engines, including DIS.
The first TWO I got from my local parts place must have been an older version. Instructions stated to not use it with DIS, and it only worked with 4-6-8 cyl's! Same part number though. :/
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Current slow rides: '65 Big Ten, '79 JD 317
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Dr.Fiero
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Posted: 21 Oct 2013 at 4:59pm |
ARRRRGGGHHHHH!!!!!Ok, do NOT purchase the Equus 6068 for use on anything other than a 4-6-8 cyl engine. :(
After having 3 of them brought in, and they were all "wrong", I got on the phone with tech support over there. Seems that the instructions THEY post on their own web site... is wrong. "Oh, those are generic" they say. So, that tach is not dash mountable, nor will it work with a one cylinder engine.
I'm pissed needless to say, as I had already cut the hole out for it. Grrrrrr......
The next model up that would work is the 6086, and it's 3-3/8", and double the price. No go. I've already spent twice as much or more that I had planned on this job. Oh well, what's one MORE hole to fill.
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Current slow rides: '65 Big Ten, '79 JD 317
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 6:39am |
I keep a tach/hour meter in stock. Unfortunately, its not an "in dash" unit, its a flush mount unit. I'll have to look at it again, but you might be able to get creative and mount it through the dash depending on where the wires come out. Its rectangular in shape, has two mounting ears, and a mounting hole in each ear. OR it could be flush mounted on the top part of your dash (half moon area) looking at your picture. It's digital. I sell a few a year. Not a big mover, but a neat little gaget. Was thinkin' about installin' one on my wife's custom B110 but never got around to it yet..
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Dr.Fiero
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Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 10:20am |
That could work... price? Shipping? Model number etc?
Edit: Oh - are you talking about the Tiny Tach? Looked at one already. Thanks.
Edited by Dr.Fiero - 22 Oct 2013 at 11:02am
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Current slow rides: '65 Big Ten, '79 JD 317
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Dr.Fiero
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Posted: 23 Oct 2013 at 9:55pm |
What's this? "Badump, bump". A rim shot.
What's this?  A shot of rims. 
I wish I'd taken some shots of them when I pulled the rubber off initially. OMG!!! There was at least a 1/4" thick layer of rust down the middle. That, and the DPO I guess had developed a rusty air leak - so it looks like he got out the stick welder and put a GIANT blob on that I had to grind down, and smooth out.
I took them into a u-blast shop since he has more air than I do. By the time I was done (almost an hour later), you could see light through the holes!
Well, not wanting to give up the OE rims, I brazed up the visible holes. Then put two coats of a rust converter liquid paint on (so I could mush it deep down into the pores). Let that cure up for a day, then layed down two coats of a spray on rubber sealant (like rocker guard) down the middle (after masking the bead area). Couple coats of white enamel... and they look good as new! 
Brand new Kendra Turf Boss rubber is sitting in the front hall ready to go on.
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Current slow rides: '65 Big Ten, '79 JD 317
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Dr.Fiero
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Posted: 24 Oct 2013 at 9:16pm |
Well, got a few more things done...
Started to refresh the carb:
Tossed it in my ultrasonic cleaner (after stripping it down!), buffed it up with a wire brush, then hit it with some clear coat (why not!). Waiting for a carb kit to show up in the mail. Figured using gaskets and stuff would be a good plan.
This is pretty much what it looks like now:
Obviously still have the spare rims/tires on the back. No exhaust system (that pipes just shoved in there!). The hood/cowl is just sitting there - still haven't made the new wiring harness.
Oh, did get a good cross reference for the mid-PTO belt. 4L330 (if anyone's looking!).
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Current slow rides: '65 Big Ten, '79 JD 317
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Dr.Fiero
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Posted: 25 Oct 2013 at 4:22pm |
Well, you know what they say... If something's worth doing, it's worth OVER doing. Or something like that.
After seeing the underside of the hood from before, and how much heat damage there was - not to mention it's a giant echo chamber in there.... ... I took some leftover self adhesive backed insulation I had from a hotrod project's firewall, and applied a patch to the underside. This stuff can withstand something like 2000* F. It should be good to go here. Ha ha.
----------------
Got to work on the wiring harness as well. Needless to say, there is now not one single bit of ~50 year old wire left.
I'm using a more conventional ignition key (you can just make it out, if you look above the battery) system now. You can see the starter solenoid in the middle, as well as a relay to the right. Key comes on, which engages the relay. This lifts ground off the points, allowing it to run. Key goes off, kills power to the relay which closes it's contacts (the N/C pair of course!), shutting down the engine. Still using the original regulator (except I replaced the rusty slot head screws with philips!) and starter/generator.
Still need to run one more ground wire from the battery over to the engine (just because!).
Ok - time for lunch. More later. :)
Edited by Dr.Fiero - 25 Oct 2013 at 4:23pm
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Current slow rides: '65 Big Ten, '79 JD 317
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 25 Oct 2013 at 6:50pm |
You're doin' a nice job Doc! I've been following along on your project here. Lookin' good so far!  Nice neat wiring. I like it! Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Dr.Fiero
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Posted: 25 Oct 2013 at 6:55pm |
Thanks - been doing wiring most of my life. Might as well make things pretty. :)
Just came back from getting rubber on rims.... Somewhat regretting getting the 8.5's, since the 9.5's just looked so much bigger!
Now to slap 'em on where they belong!
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Current slow rides: '65 Big Ten, '79 JD 317
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Dr.Fiero
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Posted: 27 Oct 2013 at 6:53pm |
Not much to add today, but...
Now wearing all 4 of it's new shoes:
New lynch pins in the back:
And I wasn't liking how the seat pan whacked into the tab when you lifted the seat up. So I bent it back a bit (the tab!), then added a hard rubber pad for it to bump up against: No more chipped paint!
Also changed out the transmission "oil". And I say "oil", because what came out... didn't look like any oil I've ever seen! Thick chunky black paste is more like it. 
Castrol 80-90 hypoid went back in, and I'm thinking I'll change it out again after a few weeks of service.
Still waiting for my carb kit in the post. Figures... After I ordered it (off eBay), I looked where it was coming from. About an hour down the highway (plus a border crossing wait). Well, according to the tracking, it made it about 1/2 hour closer to me up the highway (northern Washington state). Then turned around and went all the way down to Los Angeles!!! I guess that's the only place US Post ships out of the country from.... Shoulda just drove down and picked it up. 
Anyone have ideas on what I should use as foot pad replacements? I was thinking stair runner material maybe? Other ideas?
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Current slow rides: '65 Big Ten, '79 JD 317
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 28 Oct 2013 at 10:41am |
I don't know Doc, looks like yer' makin' headway to me! Starting ta' look purty there. Pretty soon it'll be time to put r' to work!
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Pa'sOldA/C
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Posted: 28 Oct 2013 at 11:22am |
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I went an looked at a Big 10 early 60's. The motor is miss a few things, it does have 3 pieces of equipment. It's going to be a big job, just wonder how hard it is to get parts and how costly. Yours looks great.
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Dr.Fiero
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Posted: 28 Oct 2013 at 11:52am |
I've close to given up just buying parts, so anything I've needed (or are going to need) I've just consoled myself to the fact that I'm going to have to make them!
It turns out that SOME things are (supposedly) still available. It was a huge relief to find out that the bevel gears are still (supposedly) in production. I was thinking I'd have to mill out a set, or have them made ($$$$$!!!).
I made another post about listing dimensions from still good parts, but it died.
Oh, and FYI, AFAIK, it couldn't be an early 60's Big Ten since it was only a '65/'66 model.
Update! The guy I've been dealing with at http://www.clickitandstickit.com/ has now done the BigTen decals. Not sure if he's posted it yet (might still only show the B10), but he emailed me a copy of the set. I just paid for them, and hopefully they'll be on their way in short order.
Too early in the day for the carb kit. Was thinking I'd do yet another How-To for YouTube when it gets here. Worth it?
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Current slow rides: '65 Big Ten, '79 JD 317
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Dr.Fiero
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Posted: 31 Oct 2013 at 11:27am |
Carb kit is now marked "out for delivery"! Yay! Should be here in a few hours. That aside...
The decal kit I mentioned up above is now available from clickitandstickit.com! Great price, nice guy to deal with. Shipped very fast.
I'll of course post pics of it when it's installed on my machine.
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Current slow rides: '65 Big Ten, '79 JD 317
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Dr.Fiero
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Posted: 31 Oct 2013 at 11:31am |
 Pa'sOldA/C wrote:
I went an looked at a Big 10 early 60's. The motor is miss a few things, it does have 3 pieces of equipment. It's going to be a big job, just wonder how hard it is to get parts and how costly. Yours looks great.
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Did you end up getting it?
What attachments?
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Current slow rides: '65 Big Ten, '79 JD 317
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Matt Tallant
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Posted: 31 Oct 2013 at 12:19pm |
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BIG TEN was only made in 1965.
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Dr.Fiero
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Posted: 31 Oct 2013 at 12:24pm |
Matt Tallant wrote:
BIG TEN was only made in 1965. |
I've been trying to get a 100% confirmation of this for years now. '65 is what I always thought (backed up by the initial brochure having a date code of June 64 on it). But the date code on my engine was '66. Then I got confused.
Anyone here old enough to actually remember?? My personal date code is from early '66, so I certainly dont!
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Current slow rides: '65 Big Ten, '79 JD 317
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Gary
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Posted: 31 Oct 2013 at 12:46pm |
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Link to June 1964 Brochure.
If it was like automobiles, new model production usually starts in July, so it would probably be 1965.
Gary
http://www.simpletractors.com/models/b_series/big_ten/big_ten.htm
Edited by Gary - 31 Oct 2013 at 12:46pm
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Matt Tallant
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Posted: 31 Oct 2013 at 6:25pm |
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Ours is dated 1965.
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Dr.Fiero
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Posted: 31 Oct 2013 at 7:18pm |
There's really no way to know, but maybe this machine had a dud engine that got replaced the following year? That would explain the '66 engine in it.
But... Carb kit is in.... it runs! Again. Haven't heard it run for over a decade, so that was amusing.
Got so excited I forgot to open the garage door. Oops! Smoked the shop and myself out. I now stink. Ha ha.
Haloweenie kids will start showing up here any moment though, so I've shut the shop down for the night. If it doesn't rain on me tomorrow I'll post a quickie video of it going.
(edit: fixed my sig to reflect '65 instead of '66!)
Edited by Dr.Fiero - 31 Oct 2013 at 7:20pm
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Current slow rides: '65 Big Ten, '79 JD 317
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Dr.Fiero
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Posted: 02 Nov 2013 at 10:47am |
Wow - just notice I hadn't added to this since... last month!
Still trying to resolve a carb leak. I'm getting fuel leaking from the bowl into the main air plenum. Then it dribbles out the drain in the bottom. Needle and seat are doing there job. Next step is to put some water with food coloring into the bowl, with it on the bench and the top off. It's either leaking around the conical seal between the bowl and the jet tube, or there's a pinhole in the bowl itself.
It's enough of a leak to make it drip about once every 2-3 seconds.
I was poking around eBay the other day... yeah, that's dangerous... and found myself clicking on something. It showed up yesterday in the mail.
Gotta wear the right hat when 'yer out mowing the lawn, or plowing snow! Ha ha ha.
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Current slow rides: '65 Big Ten, '79 JD 317
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