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raddle for Gleaner e3

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wjkrostek View Drop Down
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    Posted: 10 Sep 2016 at 4:00pm
I had posted about needing a fix my raddle but that was a week ago so I thought I'd start a new post.  I got a new raddle with new sprockets. Now I hope some one knows how to take the old sprockets and drive off the shaft.  To remove the drive do you need  a puller to pull it off.  I see there is a set screw to hold it on the shaft.  Then on both the sprockets there are spring pins holding them on the shaft.  But how does the shaft come out?  For some reason I just can't seem to get my head around how the comes apart. any experience  out there to help me before I start beating on the old thing and break something.
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shameless (ne) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shameless (ne) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Sep 2016 at 5:19pm
what is attatched to it on the outside? will hafta come out on that side
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Skyhighballoon(MO) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Skyhighballoon(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Sep 2016 at 5:31pm
Bill - I'm going to be watching this too as I've never had to work on the raddle on my EIII.  Not a single bearing has even went bad in it yet!   Mike
1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimWenigOH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep 2016 at 3:51am
If you PM me your email address, I'll send you a scan of that page out of my K2 Service Manual. They should be very similar.
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep 2016 at 6:32am
Raddle chain removed from upper sprockets. Reach in the sides of the combine with a long bar. With a BIG hammer break off all the teeth on each sprocket one by one. Torch off the left bearing and unbolt the right bearing and pull the shaft out thru the side. Reassemble with a clean oiled and polished shaft by sliding things back together.
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wjkrostek View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjkrostek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep 2016 at 6:07pm
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

Raddle chain removed from upper sprockets. Reach in the sides of the combine with a long bar. With a BIG hammer break off all the teeth on each sprocket one by one. Torch off the left bearing and unbolt the right bearing and pull the shaft out thru the side. Reassemble with a clean oiled and polished shaft by sliding things back together.

Will it break off the teeth without bending the sheet  walls?  How hard to you need to hit it to break them off?  they look like they will take a beating.  will they break  off low enough to fit out the hole or does it take a lot more hits.  would using an old car axle   sound like the right  kind of bar?   I would of never thought of doing it that way .   How do you cut off the bearing?  From the inside or out side?  just cut until I can break it off?  for sure can't cut into the shaft.   I better have some water around to spray her down.  sounds like you must of done this before.  Thank you for your input.  I need all the help I can get.

I just came back from looking at the combine and it looks like the teeth will have to break off blow the bottom part of the base or it will not fit through the hole .  the hole seems to be about the same size as the bearing. So it looks like the sprocket needs to stay inside.   


Edited by wjkrostek - 11 Sep 2016 at 10:58pm
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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep 2016 at 9:16pm
Does your straw walkers need any repairs? If they do, it would be a good time to remove them. Then you could get in from back to work.    MACK
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wjkrostek View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjkrostek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 12:08pm
no need to repair walkers.  I was thinking.  will an air hammer work on getting the roll pins  out of the inside sprockets.  They are impossible to reach.  I don't have an air hammer but if someone has done it before and it works.  I'll try it.  kind of makes sense but I have never done it. 
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 12:52pm
If you break off all the sprocket teeth, and cut off the left side bearing (I say left, but whichever side doesn't have a drive sprocket on it) you can pull out the shaft with the remaining sprockets hubs still on the shaft. Then, you can drive out the roll pins easily, polish the shaft clean and make sure the new sprockets slide freely on the shaft and reassemble in chassis.
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SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 9:38pm
It is an easier job with the walkers out.Doc works on stuff for a living.....time is money so he does things the most efficient way.Be sure to pay attention to the timing of the sprockets.You can have one,1/2 turn off and be 1/2 tooth off. The shaft is held n place by the lock collar bearings. The drive probably has a roll pin through the hub the slip clutch drives. Go to agcopartsbooks.com and look at how it's made.
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SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 9:38pm
It is an easier job with the walkers out.Doc works on stuff for a living.....time is money so he does things the most efficient way.Be sure to pay attention to the timing of the sprockets.You can have one,1/2 turn off and be 1/2 tooth off. The shaft is held n place by the lock collar bearings. The drive probably has a roll pin through the hub the slip clutch drives. Go to agcopartsbooks.com and look at how it's made.
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wjkrostek View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjkrostek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Sep 2016 at 9:34pm
Well I got it out .  I couldn't break  the sprockets off as I had the bearings out already so it wasn't fast anymore.  what I did was cut the sprockets  out with a torch.  I bought an air hammer and it was a good thing to use to loosen the bearings and the collars on both ends. the left side has no room for hammers as all the belts are in the way .  the air hammer will also work to put the roll pins back in as there is no room for a hammer in there.  Now I wait for the new bearings to come should have them by this week end.  If I had to do it again I would do the break thing but you need to do that when it's still  held fast and then you take the bearings out. Live a learn.  This is hard job for a one man show.  It would be an easier task with a helper.  Make sure you have some sprayer around with some water as sparks go everywhere.  I only had a small fire but the hand sprayer saved the day.  I'll let you know if I learn anything more. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 6:16am
You mean you didn't get to enjoy red hot metal sl*g falling into your shirt pocket like I enjoyed last Saturday? Why does the puter change the a to an *?


Edited by Lonn - 15 Sep 2016 at 6:46am
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