Pulling HD6G final drive sprocket

Looks like I have to go into my left final drive unit. Got some clunking on the left side, probably a failed bearing. Only does it in reverse. I'm wondering where to obtain a rig that will pull this off, and how many tons of force it will take. I'd be interested to here from anyone who has done this job, to hear what they have to say. Might talk to the tractor dealers around here and see if they know any freelance HE mechanics that might come out and pull it for me. Might be cheaper than buying the proper equipment. 

Yeah, Coke, I think I recall reading a post here somewhere about you sectioning the frame to get to the sprocket. Can you add to why the frame was a problem i.e. were you unable to get the anchors, bolts out, or maybe you were in a place where you couldn't access, or jack the machine up properly? I'm going to pull the bottom cover today and take a peek, hopefully no gear teeth damage. I have 50 years experience pulling, pressing out stubborn gears, races, and flywheels, but never anything this big. A pain for sure, and hope that these bearings and seals can be found on this planet. thanks.

Machine was a 1952 HD5G and trying to get the loader frame separated from the truck frame became a real problem so stood back and just said what is the next way . 
So I made up a plate to attach to that piece of truck frame that held the outboard bearing , drilled 4 holes in each end of 1/2 " plate , tack welded it onto truck frame drilled and tapped 1/2" bolts through plate in 8 locations , removed plate , cut truck frame , pulled sprocket, replaced axle , reassemble - mount plate and start welding truck frame back into place , shim outboard bearing as needed .
 On a HD5B I did moving the truck frame was easy but then found cracks in rear housing and had to get under machine to weld them up , another great day of laying on back and playing welder .

take note on # of splines if you need to change sprocket shaft there was a serial # change,  otherwise i think the pinion and intermediate are the same.    I am parting a 6g 2 hrs west of KC if you cant get something closer.

Coke-in-MN wrote: I pulled mine with no special equipment , just things in shop , no special puller like needed for CAT sprocket . It's a tapered spline and once ruck frame is moved so you have access no problems .   On my HD5G the truck frame was the big problem so I came up with a way to cut the rear section of frame using a jig so I could weld the section back and it being aligned and in same position . by making a plate and bolting it into position before cutting , then using jig to hold position when rewelding .   Outer nut holding sprocket to axle requires high torque to loosen and tighten , around 1200 Ft Pounds . so large wrench and 10 ft piece of pipe as a cheater were required to service that . My memory fades in what  I used to pull sprocket from splines , if hydraulic jack or porta power - and a home made jig to go into sprocket spokes and press on axle stub - as I was replacing the broken axle end that went into outboard bearing holder . Don't remember where the axle stub was broken or how much was outside sprocket face .

     Where did you cut your frame, and with what, a torch?

I'm trying to remove this master pin on my track. I assume it is to be pushed out from the outside of the track? I have a undercarriage manual from AC but it covers a lot of HD series up to 16, and doesn't really show much. Some have tapers, splines, locks, clips, etc., but 'HD-16 shown, HD6G is similar' doesn't inspire much confidence over here.  I've made a bucking bar apparatus to steady the track from the inside while I bash on the pin with my sledge. I welded a 4'' length of pipe to the outside of the plate to hold my driving pin while I wail on it, as I'm alone and only have 2 hands. With no experience with tracks, I assume the pin is press-fit in the side plates, and floats inside the bushings. Sadly, twenty years ago I knew guys who probably had the right equipment to do this, and the knowledge, but they're all gone now, and their kids just sold most of their tools for peanuts. 

When I did the layout , I chose a spot ahead of the outboard bearing housing and area far enough away to allow a good weld position to get to all parts of truck frame . 
 Then I laid out plate of flat of the frame , drilled and tapped the trilled holes I made through the predrilled holes in plate , then marked and cut that section of the truck frame .
 In assembly it was just bolt cut piece and frame body back into position , weld part of it then remove and complete welding of cut piece , re-shim outboard earing housing to complete the job . 

 Will note when removing the master pin from track section it seems it works best to leave shoes on track to keep both sides aligned - I pound pin out when located at front idler - but use a pipe between the opposite side of machine track as a bucking area , for without bucking it the rebound force will ab absorbed . 
 I made up a driving pin and welded a piece of metal onto it as a handle and had someone hold it to keep pin from rebounding when hit . A also found by tacking a guide onto track pad to keep driving took in place centered on master pin it made it easy . A slight amount of heat to both sides of track link will also create some extra clearance. 
 When going back together it's said to use a new pin but I didn't have access so used old pin and shims over , I froze the pin , lubed it good , and just drove it back into position , No need to weld it in place as I figured I might have to remove it again .
 

HI  Just for make sure is it the pinion 049886 and the pinion 049881 for HD6.