AC motor grader D - year and engine type
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=98749
Printed Date: 16 Nov 2024 at 2:49pm
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Topic: AC motor grader D - year and engine type
Posted By: cjm
Subject: AC motor grader D - year and engine type
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2014 at 9:28am
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Hi all. I am new here but grew up with an Allis Chalmers D-type grader. My dad bought it second hand in the early 60s and it was one of the first things I was allowed to drive before I had a formal driver's license. It was used primarily to shape fields for irrigation purposes and is still in use on the farm. I have grown to love it and would like some more information about it. The serial (?) number is D -1976 The engine number (hardly legible) seems to be WD 305 904. Can anyone tell me the year of manufacture and the type of engine. Would the engine be a WD or WD45. Are there manuals with exploded views of the engine available? Thanks in advance! |
Replies:
Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2014 at 10:00am
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Your D grader was built in 1952 and the engine in her was built in 1951. The engine is the same as the WD farm tractors used.
------------- 3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep. |
Posted By: cjm
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2014 at 11:51am
Much appreciated, Don. Some more about our grader. The cracks in the tubular frame were welded some years ago. I have been carrying out some very needed maintenance on her. Changed the oil (I guess multigrade is not really ideal - should I change it once again?). The oil filter I could not locate in SA and got a Baldwin from the US. As described somewhere in these forums, with other makes, it caused a major drop in oil pressure. I then replaced the filter taken out. Still mulling what I'll do next time I change the oil. With the old filter the pressure is about 25 psi (checked that with a new oil pressure meter). I replaced one of the chains on the drive wheels which was slipping. For much of her working life she was started without a battery by cranking manually. Eventually the magneto started giving problems due to wear and tear and a local mechanic converted her to a 12 volt system, using the magneto as a distributor. That works very well. At the same time the generator was replaced with an alternator. I note that her exhaust does not protrude through the engine shield (like some pics on the forum), but is angled sideways. Apart from the listed changes, she is still original. I also had her brake shoe refitted. She does not look as well as the magnificently restored version I also saw on the forum, but then she is still a working girl. Two of her top engine mounting bolts are shorn off and I still have to replace those. I was so pleasantly surprised when I stumbled upon this forum, to find that there are still so many (in a manner of speaking!) of these graders running. She had a canvas canopy. I intend replacing that shortly over the unsightly protruding frame. I also add some photos below.   |
Don(MO) wrote:Posted By: Calvin Schmidt
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2014 at 9:03pm
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There was a major discussion here some time ago about the oil filter problem you have. I don't know the brands that had the problem but it was with a paper element. Your engine relies on the resistance in the filter to creat the oil pressure. The filter must have a wooden stick in the center that has to be removed before slipping on over the little pipe sticking up in the center of the filter base. The filter media must be a cotton type material. Hopfully some one else will fill in more exact info. ------------- Nothing is impossible if it is properly financed |
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2014 at 3:57pm
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Go to the Baldwin filter site, is the only place I found correct and exact match to OE filters for my 7G crawler. Napa had a close second but they too did not seem up to the mark. http://www.baldwinfilter.com/ |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2014 at 9:56pm
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You must have the little tube that sticks up into the filter.Old units have been know to leave the tube stuck in the old filter.If you didn't know it belonged there you wouldn't notice it missing.That is what gives resistance to the system to create oil pressure to the rest of the engine. I have only seen that exhaust on WC's. |
Posted By: cjm
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2014 at 11:22pm
The filter which I have (but took out again due to low oil pressure) is indeed a Balwin T300M which is supposedly the equivalent of the Fram C159. That latter reference I also got from this site (thank you!). I made sure about the stick etc. I can only think that the filter material is too efficient? It is not a paper element as far as I can make out through the holes in the base plate. I used a multigrade oil but that should not make a difference? It works ok with the old filter. It might interest you that Fram filters are widely sold here but the C159 does not appear on their database. Baldwin has a presence in the country which makes it easier to obtain filters. |
Posted By: cjm
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2014 at 11:25pm
I made sure about the little stick - thanks to posts elsewhere. See also my further reply above. I know nothing about the engine types. Allis Chalmers tractors for some reason were not widely used here. I may be wrong about some of the other digits but there definitely is a 'D' in the engine serial number. |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 09 Dec 2014 at 4:45am
| Baldwin and Wix were the problem filters, I think. I also think it was a matter of the rag chaff used in these old not being packed in dense enough. grab the punched plate in the questionable filter, that retains the filter media, and see if you can move it easily. the filter itself can be found, easily, I think it originated as a early chevy "mayonaise jar" filter. |
Posted By: cjm
Date Posted: 09 Dec 2014 at 9:28am
It can be moved easily. I noticed that right at the beginning. I am going to try Fram in the US. The Fram ones are all over the internet but they don't ship here :(( We have also had a postal strike running for 4 months now :(( |
Posted By: cjm
Date Posted: 09 Dec 2014 at 1:25pm
Two more pics...  |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 09 Dec 2014 at 10:57pm
I'd say Don was right about the WD engine but all I was saying was I've not seen that manifold on a WD,only early WC's |
Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 11 Dec 2014 at 8:56am
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I see the old starting gas tank on the left side and above the engine in the hood, so I'm thinking it was a K at one time in it's life that why that manifold is on her. If you look at the end of the engine ser# WD 305 904 I'll bet it will have the letter K there too. ------------- 3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep. |
Posted By: cjm
Date Posted: 11 Dec 2014 at 11:56am
You will have to excuse my ignorance here. The grader used to be started on gasoline (petrol, in our terminology). When hot, it was switched over to what we call the power paraffin tank - your Kerosine. I assumed all the while that all those WD engines operated like that. From your comments I gather that that was not the case and that the Kerosine engines were a different species, labelled with a K? I will look for the K. Kerosine is now not generally available anymore, so I run it on leaded gasoline. On the terminology see this quote: ... Kerosene is a http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Combustible" rel="nofollow - combustible http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrocarbon" rel="nofollow - hydrocarbon liquid widely used as a fuel, in industry, and in households. Its name is derived from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greek_language" rel="nofollow - Greek : κηρός (keros) meaning http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wax" rel="nofollow - wax ,and was registered as a trademark by http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abraham_Gesner" rel="nofollow - Abraham Gesner in 1854 before evolving into a http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Genericized_trademark" rel="nofollow - genericized trademark . It is sometimes spelled kerosine in scientific and industrial usage. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kerosene#cite_note-1" rel="nofollow - [1] The term "kerosene" is common in much of Canada, the United States, Australia and http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_Zealand" rel="nofollow - New Zealand . http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kerosene#cite_note-2" rel="nofollow - [2] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kerosene#cite_note-3" rel="nofollow - [3] Kerosene is usually called paraffin in the UK, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ireland" rel="nofollow - Ireland , http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Southeast_Asia" rel="nofollow - Southeast Asia and http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_Africa" rel="nofollow - South Africa . http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kerosene#cite_note-4" rel="nofollow - [4]... Kerosene is widely used to power http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jet_engine" rel="nofollow - jet engines of aircraft ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jet_fuel" rel="nofollow - jet fuel ) and some http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rocket_engine" rel="nofollow - rocket engines , but is also commonly used as a cooking and lighting fuel and for fire toys such as http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fire_poi" rel="nofollow - poi . http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kerosene |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 12 Dec 2014 at 10:11pm
| Don't know the years involved but 30's through 40's? I think most American tractors were designed to run on kerosene after starting on gasoline. It was called "distillate" and I don't know how different it was from todays kerosene.Engines were low compression.Gasoline cost more to burn. Burning the cheaper fuel diluted engine oil.I remember Farmall tractors with 2 petcocks on side of oil pan. Dad said top one was "full" level and you drained off excess to lower one after a period of use and added fresh oil. My UC has kerosene pistons and it's somewhere around 4:1 compression ratio. Might be 4.5:1 what Don is saying is that kerosene "W" engines had a K at the end of the engine serial number. |
Posted By: cjm
Date Posted: 13 Dec 2014 at 2:40am
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Hi Don and Steve, Very interesting. I had another look at the serial number and think I can see a 'K' (not stamped on, but in fact a permanent, raised letter). After the 'K' there is perhaps an 'A' stamped on. The issue is, however, I think, settled by a large 'K' which is cast into the manifold. I attach a photo. I also include a copy of the manual, which does not show the starter tank, but does show an exhaust angled sideways. On the manifold in the illustration appears a 'G' (or, perhaps, 'O'?) In the manual, under the heading 'Specifications of fuel' the following is written: 'For economy and performance use fuel specified for your engine. For regular loads use 60 octane gasoline or higher, For continued heavy loads use 70 octane gasoline or higher'.   |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 13 Dec 2014 at 10:23am
| Those two outlets are different on the inside.The K one puts more exhaust heat to the intake side of manifold.My UC uses two different outlet locations to achieve that. |
Posted By: TramwayGuy
Date Posted: 13 Dec 2014 at 10:39am
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The 'K' engine was an option on the WD, and it used the same manifold as the 'WC'. Gasoline fuel and the 'PA' suffix was standard. The WD 45 was supposedly available with distillate option, but the exhaust was a little different as it bent back up through the hood. I would guess not very many made that way. You have a very rare grader and I urge you to keep it stock. It may be the only one in existence! |
Posted By: cjm
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2014 at 10:30am
Thanks for for advice. We intended fitting a Cat D6 engine to give it a little more power. Guess that is not an option now! (and of course I am joking - been sort of a family joke for many years!).  Thanks everybody for all the comments, information and advice. It is much appreciated. |