Hand clutch is removed now I want to dry it up
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=96205
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Topic: Hand clutch is removed now I want to dry it up
Posted By: cotncrzy
Subject: Hand clutch is removed now I want to dry it up
Date Posted: 11 Oct 2014 at 8:25am
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I want to be able to dry the housing up. I have read on here to use sealed bearings, I have searched without results. Can anyone give me bearing #'s, and info on just exactly how much it is to it...
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C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM!
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Replies:
Posted By: Fields
Date Posted: 12 Oct 2014 at 1:08pm
Posted By: Honey B
Date Posted: 12 Oct 2014 at 1:41pm
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You would need to seal the front of the trans. Sealed bearings don't always work.
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Posted By: wi50
Date Posted: 12 Oct 2014 at 2:42pm
I'm cheap and lazy, sealed bearings will leak oil in time and weep around the shaft to race.
Get a can of Great Stuff foam insulation and just foam the housing to displace as much oil as possible and leave things we enough am one
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"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 12 Oct 2014 at 9:55pm
The "seal" in a sealed bearing is to keep the grease IN the bearing not to seal out leaks side to side.
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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: cotncrzy
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2014 at 7:30am
I understand that, but I have to run oil in order to lubricate, where is if I had a sealed and lubed bearing I wouldn't
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C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM!
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Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2014 at 8:28am
I suppose if you had them out already you could cross them to a sealed bearing or go by dimensions but I assume you are wanting to get the bearings before you tear into it.
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2014 at 8:32am
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OK, I was thinking, I get in trouble that way, that you were trying to separate compartments with the seal. If those bearings are a ball bearing , it shouldn't be hard to find a replacement by size. Timken tapered bearings would be another story. I don't know what is in there.
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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2014 at 9:22am
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If the ball bearing has a standard 4 digit bearing number such as 6405 then adding a seal to one side would be 6405-RS. To add seals to both sides would be 6405-2RS. To add the metal shields such as you often see in motor bearings you suffix the number with Z 6405-Z. If the bearing you have now has an Allis part number then you will need to convert it to the standard numbering system to get your part number then simply call any bearing house or better yet punch it into Ebay to get lots better pricing.
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Posted By: mattb
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2014 at 11:26am
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I got rid of my housing to save more weight made a steel plate for the clutch housing and one for the trans and welded a pipe between them to let the oil flow back and forth no seal needed
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Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2014 at 1:25pm
Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2014 at 2:32pm
if hes running anything close to natpa i doubt that would be legal
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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