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Sandblaster, What To Get?

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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=94204
Printed Date: 29 Jul 2025 at 11:02am
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Topic: Sandblaster, What To Get?
Posted By: DennisA (IL)
Subject: Sandblaster, What To Get?
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2014 at 1:24pm
 I'm thinging about getting a snadblaster to do big jobs like tractor frames and wagons. I already have a cabinent type for small stuff. What do you guys recommond?

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Thanks & God Bless

Dennis



Replies:
Posted By: AJ
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2014 at 1:30pm
I recommend the siphoning blaster from tractor supply. Cost $100 and works great. Just make sure your lines are clear of moisture and your sand is dry. Love mine.

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Can't fix stupid


Posted By: Tracy Martin TN
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2014 at 1:50pm
The wind maker is more important than the blaster.Make sure you have enough cfm's and dry air. Tracy

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No greater gift than healthy grandkids!


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2014 at 3:13pm
LOT"S of CFM's

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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: lowell66dart
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2014 at 3:57pm
I did some rear wheels with a TS blaster. It worked well. I also bought their blastng media.

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AC 6080 (8030,7060,200,175,D-17HC, 6040,160,6140 all gone) Farmall 1066 & 656 Hi-Clear (for sale), White 2-62 High Clearance, JD 4255 Hi Clear.


Posted By: beaud_250
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2014 at 8:46pm
Man I was just thinking about posting the same question. I'm looking for something to mainly sandblast my wheels. would you guys recommend a pressurized blaster or the gravity feed from Tractor Supply?


Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2014 at 9:00pm
I have a 10 gallon pressure tank style blaster from Harbor Freight. It works quite well. A pressure tank blaster will be more aggressive than a siphon type. Tracy's right about the air source. Sandblasters use LOTS of air. I have a pair of 3hp 60 gal compressors and they will run my cabinet blaster or the tank blaster as long as I want. Having clean dry sand is a must too. The only gripe I have about the tank blaster is it won't work with Black Beauty blasting crystals. They just don't flow as well as white sand requiring constant agitation of the tank to work.

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford


Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2014 at 9:02pm
Originally posted by beaud_250 beaud_250 wrote:

Man I was just thinking about posting the same question. I'm looking for something to mainly sandblast my wheels. would you guys recommend a pressurized blaster or the gravity feed from Tractor Supply?
For blasting heavy rust, you want a tank style. Siphon units don't have the velocity a tank does.

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford


Posted By: allischalmerguy
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2014 at 9:42pm
Getting enough air is a problem. I just can't get enough to really do a fast enough job. I think you would need a big compressor. I have tried using my average size compressor and I think I could use two or three of them hooked together! I have thought it would be nice to have something I could hook a tractor up to that would move lots of air!


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It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,


Posted By: allischalmerguy
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2014 at 9:42pm
Where do you guys get the sand?
Do you recyle it?

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It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,


Posted By: AJ
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2014 at 9:44pm
I get mine at Lowe's. Black beauty

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Can't fix stupid


Posted By: Allen Dilg
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2014 at 9:54pm
Hello Dennis    I would recommend finding a used pressure type one most parts are available. You will need a compressor 20+ CFM. I use about a pallet of black beauty every 2 yrs.      ps are you going to Pontiac next week??? we'll be there Allen


Posted By: ACFarmer86
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2014 at 10:02pm
We use a pressure pot, 200 lb capacity and a diesel powered air pump for doing all types of jobs, even works ok on tin parts like hoods if not get too close. I think the brand is clemco. Takes a lot of dry air like the other guys say, we also use a fresh air mask for better viability and safety. Just the blaster is few thousand tho.......

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Grandpa's 1953 WD, D17 series I, 190 XT III


Posted By: ACFarmer86
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2014 at 10:04pm
Forgot to say we use black diamond on tougher blast projects and silica sand o the easier stuff. Hope it helps some

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Grandpa's 1953 WD, D17 series I, 190 XT III


Posted By: oldways
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2014 at 10:35pm
I think I got mine at tractor supply also. I also use black beauty. I sweep it up and put it through an old window screen and reuse it several times. Like others have said gotta have the airflow. I'm in the middle of blasting my WC right now. Bought mine few years ago when I restored my G started out with a wire wheel on a grinder didn't take long to figure out I needed a blaster.

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1 Corinthians 1:18 1969-190xt-III. 1966 190xt gas. 1966 190xt Cab. 1948-G. 1937-WC unstyled. 1950-B. 1951-CA. 1966-D17-IV


Posted By: desertjoe
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2014 at 11:08pm

Hey ACFarmer,,,I'm glad you mentioned using the fresh air mask, when using "SILICA SAND" or "sand blasting sand". Silica sand is very dangerous stuff to use as a blast media as the silica dust is Bad Stuff to your lungs.
   Silica sand does work good in cabinet blasters but you must wear a respirator and have an eductor or dust collector to collect all the air borne dust it produces.
Hope this helps.


Posted By: Boomer
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2014 at 11:10pm
I have the siphon feed, pressure tank, and power washer attachment. I like using the power washing attachment. It does a great job, and is more healthy (you don't breathe the dust). I think I got it from Northern tools.


Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2014 at 11:10pm
Originally posted by allischalmerguy allischalmerguy wrote:

Where do you guys get the sand?
Do you recyle it?
I've been getting silica sand at Menards. I've been intending to sift the used sand for reuse, but so far that hasn't happened.

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford


Posted By: nanuk
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2014 at 2:57am
silica sand grows wild in northern Saskatchewan

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AC7060Pd 1975


Posted By: Dave H
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2014 at 6:02am
I am a hobbyist.  I use the pressure pot (think it is the 80 lb one from harbor freight and get along OK, except for the extremely high humid days like right now in the midwest.

My 11cfm at 90 compressor is what I consider minimum for that blaster.  Hot air from  the compressor is a killer for me.  It carries the water in vapor form until it hits the nozzle.  I found a second 80 gallon tank that I run the air into from the first 80 gallon to help dissipate the heat.  Also keeping a big adz fan on the tanks and compressor seems to help a lot.  Black Beauty is for me, but it is fairly aggressive.

Before using silica sand search up on what that stuff will do to your lungs, and that process is pretty much not reversible

I sweep up the concrete pad and sift the used stuff back i the tank while adding about 1/3 new to the mix.

Found that even new black beauty right out of the sack needs to be sifted.  Screen wire size works for me.


Posted By: David Maddux
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2014 at 6:17am
Here is a little tip to kill the water in air from a hot compressor. Take  a 5 gallon bucket, fill it with cold water, coil 50 ft. of air hose into it. hang water separator over edge of bucket on end of hose . Hook up and use, no more water in air.  Dave. Father of poor necessity.


Posted By: NDBirdman
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2014 at 9:21am
My compressor is a 174 psi/5 gallon sears black oil-less compressor.  I picked up the Black Beauty from TSC.  Worked good, but I had to stop quite often as the compressor could not keep up.  Got the job done on a couple small rims but it took a long time because the air could not keep up.  I laid out a 12X12 tarp and sat in the middle of it for sand blasting, made recovery of the media painless and quick.  Go with the biggest compressor you can get.  I wore a mask and goggles.  When I was done, *I* had sand in places I had forgot I had... LOL.  Long sleeves and no shorts!  High top boots.

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1955 WD45 S#205467, 190XT #6652 DXT


Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2014 at 9:37am
I've got three small compressors all connected together.  I think they are two 20 gallon and one 30 gallon tank.  They work good as a team.  Go team! Big smile
I run the air through an air/water seperator and then through a desiccant to dry the air.


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1957 WD45 dad's first AC

1968 one-seventy

1956 F40 Ferguson


Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2014 at 10:06am
Yeah, water vapor is a problem. Both of my blasters came with water traps on them and I leave the drains cracked so any water collected drains as it forms. Seems to work good enough that I never have any water related problems.
Both of my 60 gal compressor tanks get pretty warm after a while. I put a good sized fan on the pumps if I know I'm going to blast a lot.

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford


Posted By: Clay
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2014 at 12:33pm
In the cooler weather, I blast and coat condenser tube-sheets on HVAC chillers.  My set-up is a 1.5 cu. ft. Schmidt blast pot and a 185 CFM Joy air-compressor.  The media is Black Beauty 12/40 grit.  The result I am after is a near white 3 mil finish.
This is TOO HARSH for doing tractor restorations.
If using Black Beauty (Diamond Blast), use the extra fine.

My suggestion is to rent a compressor and blast pot from a rental store.  You will also need to determine the size and variety of blast media, for your project.



http://mcfinishing.com/resources/blastingtech.pdf

http://blastech.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/spread.pdf

http://www.canfieldjoseph.com/abrasive-blast-media.php

http://www.nortonsandblasting.com/nsbabrasives.html.


Posted By: DonDittmar
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2014 at 7:45pm
Got tired of waiting for shop compressor to build air so I built my own blasting compressor.
http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=56435&KW=air+compressor&PID=441922&title=compressorplan-b#441922

http://youtu.be/Yee81h_73k4




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Experience is a fancy name for past mistakes. "Great moments are born from great opportunity"

1968 D15D,1962 D19D
Also 1965 Cub Loboy and 1958 JD 720 Diesel Pony Start


Posted By: allischalmerguy
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2014 at 9:58pm
DonDittmar,
VEry nice outfit you made there. Where did you get the compressor cyliner part of it?

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It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,


Posted By: NDBirdman
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2014 at 9:09am
WOW, now that's a compressor Don!!

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1955 WD45 S#205467, 190XT #6652 DXT


Posted By: TimNearFortWorth
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2014 at 2:22pm
Two parts, to just the air side; volume and air quality. Whatever you have for an air compressor, go with the biggest tank you can. You will need a compressor to fill it, without the compressor hurting itself by running constantly. CFM does the work so unless you are doing very small jobs, you will be waiting on a compressor that is running itself to death. Lower volume/pressure to work with and you will get frustrated when you "outrun" the compressor. Tanks are cheap and set up with the right compressor, they make all the difference in the world.
Tanks are also a large separator; impact separation and to an extent, a larger area to cool the air, allowing the liquid entrained in the air to fall out.
Compressor sized to the job.
Tank sized to the compressor/max output of what you want to do.
Auto drains; both on the receiver tank and water/particulate/oil removal filters, essential if you want very clean dry air.
If you are running a recip compressor, expect 100ppm oil carryover and this only increases as the compressor ages. No aftercooler on the recip unit, expect hot, water laden air that must be "treated" for quality. With an aftercooler (not intercooler), you can get the "approach temp" of the air down to within 100 degrees of ambient; this is the air temp as it leaves the compressor. A refrigeration unit will drop the air temp which allows more water to be able to be removed. I set up many air systems in factories, body shops, etc. and it all depends on what you want to do with the air; 10 - 1000+HP, you still have to set it up to do what you want efficiently.
The old rule of thumb; a 100HP compressor, set at 100 psi, running at 100 degrees ambient and near 100% relative humidity will make over 20 gallons of water a day.
Many times I received a call to come out and quote a new compressor only to add up the required cfm to find the compressor unit still had 20-30%+ capacity that just was not being used properly. By tieing the dead ended piping together, installing a 240 or 400 gallon receiver tank furthest away from the compressor source and showing the customer how to install proper drip legs at points of use, they quickly realized they did not need another compressor. When they did expand operations, I got the call and they had the luxury of already having the air piping/storage in-place.
If you want to do plenty of pieces constantly, and even bigger jobs if you are seriously getting into blasting, hard to beat a pull behind 180-200 cfm diesel unit as it can also be used to do many other things. It will typically be a rotary screw (low oil carryover compared to a recip), have a separator and designed to run flat out.


Posted By: DonDittmar
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2014 at 6:22pm
Pump is an Eaton, made in Eaton OH. You see them advertise all the time on the tractor pulls on RFD. At the time I bought it, it was the biggest recip they made at 42 cfm. They now make biggers one, up to 98 cfm I think. Compressor is controlled by a standard D2 governor found at any heavy truck shop. The compressor unloads at 120 psi, which helps in keeping the pump cool. In the unloaded mode it draws in air and pushes it and heat right back out.

Tank is 120 gal propane pig. Take had been empty for years, but took awhile to get the perfume smell out

Hose reel is 50 ft from TCS.

Engine is of course an Allis B power unit
http://www.eatoncompressor.com/catalog/item/518643/1320611.htm


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Experience is a fancy name for past mistakes. "Great moments are born from great opportunity"

1968 D15D,1962 D19D
Also 1965 Cub Loboy and 1958 JD 720 Diesel Pony Start



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