1941 Wc Stock Puller
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Other Topics
Forum Name: Pulling Forum
Forum Description: Forum dedicated to Tractor and Garden Pulling
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=93988
Printed Date: 24 Nov 2024 at 6:18pm
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Topic: 1941 Wc Stock Puller
Posted By: Clay2017
Subject: 1941 Wc Stock Puller
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2014 at 9:50pm
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Hi I'm new to this forum and I'm only 15 but I'm lucky enough to own a 1941 WC. I'm looking to build it into a puller and be somewhat competitive in my local club. I know pretty much nothing about pulling and need a lot of help. Money is not a huge factor but is something I have to consider. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!
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Replies:
Posted By: bigcountry48
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2014 at 6:38am
Start by finding a good used wd45 crankshaft and use that with those rods and pistons, make sure everything in the motor is nice and tight while you are replacing the crank. This crankshaft has a longer stroke, and you dont have to change anything in the motor to get it to work. that will create more torque. Also get as big a carburetor as you see fit probably a tsx464 would do you good. After all that get a 12 volt battery and a high performance coil along with a petronix system, these will help you run more efficiently while producing a little more horse power. Next you'll need some weight bars wheelie bars and most likely a new draw bar design. The closer and higher up the draw bar is the better (in theory, some will disagree its just what I've heard by the majority) pm me your number and ill text you some pictures of my weight bars just to get you started. Oh I almost forgot dont run the carb through the air cleaner, it restricts air. Go to your local auto parts store and buy the biggest air cleaner you can get that will work. You want as few bends in the line running to the carb as possible, bends restrict air. The longer the tube the more the air will spiral which will cause it to cool down and compress, which means more gas and air to the motor for more power. Hope this helps and if I'm unclear on something feel free to ask!
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1950 B, 1952 pulling wd, and 1954 wd45
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Posted By: dgerth
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2014 at 9:41am
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Then start stripping weight off to get as lite as possible. You remove the weight so that it can be put back on where it is needed the most to balance the tractor. A rough formula for this is 70-30. 70% on the rear and 30% on the front. Just think of the tractor as a teeter totter and find the balance point ;and then place the weights accordingly. It takes some practice but is crucial to successful pulling. Get the balance right coupled with good traction and you are well on your way in the sport of pulling. Good Luck and have FUN! dg
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Posted By: Clay2017
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2014 at 10:50am
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What should I take off? Things like cultivator lifters pto? I still have the cast rear centers but I'm looking to get spoke wheels
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2014 at 6:43pm
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Remove anything that you don't need for Pulling. A "WC" is pretty light as it is, and you might want to actually use the PTO later for some tune-up/dyno time(IF you have access to a dyno). If your weight class is 3500 lbs and up, you won't need to remove much as long as the fluid is removed from the rear tires. Get your drawbar up to the maximum height allowed and as short as allowed. This is usually 20 inches high and 18 inches from the center of the rear wheels to the hitch point. These are standard dimensions but not always the Rule, depending on where you're competing. Having a way to add 500 lbs in 100 lb (or smaller) increments will allow you to pull a light class and then one heavier. It's always best to use suitcase style weights and be able to hang them on the front and rear of the tractor without any hassle doing so. General rule for me is when increasing my total weight by 500 lbs, I add 100 to 150 lbs to the front and 300 to 400 on the rear. This of course assumes my balance in the first class was correct. My front weights are 11 ft from the rear wheel center and rear weights are very close to the rear axle.
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