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Oil pan Gasket video

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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=93356
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Topic: Oil pan Gasket video
Posted By: JimD
Subject: Oil pan Gasket video
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2014 at 9:45am
It's finally done!
My son had a lot of commitments this summer, and I forgot to upload the video while he was gone last week. Anyway, here it is. He has about 20+ hours in editing it. Yes, it really does take that long. If you wish to contact him directly, I can get you his information.

http://youtu.be/9LWCMvO_Dis" rel="nofollow - http://youtu.be/9LWCMvO_Dis

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Owner of http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central.

We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543



Replies:
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2014 at 10:35am
Thanks to all involved in making this!!!!!


Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2014 at 12:52pm
A BIG Thanks to Jim for getting the boys to make the video. They did a good job with all the editing all four classes into one class. I liked all the still shots they put in the right places.
I hope someone will get some help out of this video.
As far as how the classes went; I never been good at getting in front of people to talk about something but before all you guys that know me will say I can talk you butt off one on one, but put me in front of a crowd and I tend to lock up. lol
I did have fun doing this but at this time in my movie star life I think it might be best to just retire now before I get fired. lol


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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.



Posted By: beaud_250
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2014 at 2:22pm
I pulled it up but couldn't get any sound. Is it just my phone?


Posted By: Michael Crowe
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2014 at 3:57pm
Sound is garbled on my phone; would love to hear it though.

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The 10th Annual Exclusive AC Swap Meet will be held in Boonville, MO, March 5-6, 2021. See the club website for details: http://www.moacclub.com


Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2014 at 4:15pm
I just checked and the sound is OK on my computer.


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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.



Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2014 at 4:26pm
Same here. I am able to hear and see everything. I wonder if the quality is just too high for phones?

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Owner of http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central.

We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543


Posted By: Tony.Or
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2014 at 5:51pm
Looks  good & sound   great  on a real computer. TC

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http://www.tonystractors.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.tonystractors.com


Posted By: Chris (swIA)
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2014 at 6:14pm
Don, you did great putting on the class in Lathrop and the video will be a BIG help to all those that couldn't attend. You would be correct your movie star life though. You're over qualified!


Posted By: Jacob (WI,ND)
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2014 at 8:25pm
Thank you all for doing this!  I learned a lot and I'm sure others will too!  Good job!

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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C's; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45


Posted By: Reindeer
Date Posted: 06 Aug 2014 at 4:41pm
I have not had to do this, but I bookmarked the video, just in case.  Well done!

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67 D15 S2
83 5015
Several Kubotas'                     


Posted By: DonDittmar
Date Posted: 06 Aug 2014 at 6:14pm
Must be worthy, it's been stikied

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Experience is a fancy name for past mistakes. "Great moments are born from great opportunity"

1968 D15D,1962 D19D
Also 1965 Cub Loboy and 1958 JD 720 Diesel Pony Start


Posted By: j.w.freck
Date Posted: 06 Aug 2014 at 9:58pm
don.....you did a great job on the oil seal replacement.i detected the learned from experience exerpts in the video.you are right.....IF YOU ARE DOING A REPAIR DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME.....j.w.


Posted By: garden_guy
Date Posted: 06 Aug 2014 at 11:04pm
This is fantastic. Hopefully there's more to come of videos like this! :)


Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2014 at 7:30am
I had to laugh at myself yesterday for making this video. I'm overhauling a 226 in the shop and got to thinking about the video as I was installing the rear main seal, front cover and oil pan. I did the work in the shop on a real engine faster that I did in the video. LMAO   

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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.



Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2014 at 9:01am
great job! I haven't been in the AC shop in over 20 years and had forgotten more than I thought. Pretty much what I was taught by the older mechanics at Peterson Implement.

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Wink
I live in Minnesota but am a Russian Bot


Posted By: RonM
Date Posted: 13 Aug 2014 at 11:20am
Great video & info.
I need to do this with engine in the tractor.
Any helpful hints on how to do that?
Can it be done without removing the front engine support on a WFE?
 
Thanks


Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 13 Aug 2014 at 1:37pm
Why not just take the engine out? It doesn't take all that long and you'll get a much better job. I've put one on with the engine still in frame and it wasn't easy and it wasn't long before it leaked.

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-- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... -
Wink
I live in Minnesota but am a Russian Bot


Posted By: RonM
Date Posted: 13 Aug 2014 at 4:43pm
I'm doing a restoration and just want to swap out a dented pan for a nicer one.
I don't need to do any engine work. 


Posted By: Greg(WI)
Date Posted: 13 Aug 2014 at 4:49pm
Thanks for the great video, it is much easier to learn by watching something like this than just reading the instructions.  I would like to thank everyone involved and as I need parts in the future will be sure to support those involved with this.




Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 13 Aug 2014 at 6:51pm
Like Lonn said, just pull the engine out; you will do the pan change with the engine out of the tractor in about the same time it will take you to change the pan in the tractor. I think that I said that in the class too. I have done the oil pan gaskets in the tractor before and will not do it again.


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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.



Posted By: RonM
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2014 at 11:43am
Thanks Don.
I guess that's what I wanted to know.
 
Now I have to decide if I want to pull the engine or live with a few dents in the pan.
 
Gut feeling is; live with the dents ( Ive seen worse on restos at shows).
 
But, I've never been one to rush into things, so I will mull it over before deciding.
 
Thanks again.
 


Posted By: oldways
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2014 at 11:37pm
Thanks for the video! I agree hope to see more like it in the future.

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1 Corinthians 1:18 1969-190xt-III. 1966 190xt gas. 1966 190xt Cab. 1948-G. 1937-WC unstyled. 1950-B. 1951-CA. 1966-D17-IV


Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2014 at 10:34pm
So if I come back out of retirement what should I make a video about next?  

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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.



Posted By: oldways
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2014 at 10:51pm
Everything that happens before you are ready to put on the oil pan. Haha

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1 Corinthians 1:18 1969-190xt-III. 1966 190xt gas. 1966 190xt Cab. 1948-G. 1937-WC unstyled. 1950-B. 1951-CA. 1966-D17-IV


Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2014 at 9:43am
Originally posted by Don(MO) Don(MO) wrote:

So if I come back out of retirement what should I make a video about next?  


Engine rebuilding?????

What machining needs to be done, sleeve removal & replacement, main and rod bearing replacement, valve work and reassembling an engine.

I a mthe guy that originally asked you to make a video of your presentation at GOTO. Again, I want to thank you and all that were involved in making the video!!!! I have learned a lot from this video!


Posted By: Greenacres
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2014 at 9:51am
Don,
How about a carb rebuild video?
I also would like to thank you and all who contributed the pan gasket video- it was very well done and helpful!


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2014 at 10:46am
 
Thanks Don for the effort you put into this. Thanks to Carlton and Corban for the video, stills and editing. Wish I would have know a few of these tricks about 7 year ago :)
 Oh and thanks Tony C for your part too!


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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2014 at 10:55am
I was gonna suggest Don do the brake pins on a WD, but then we wouldn't be able to have any audio.

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Owner of http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central.

We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543


Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2014 at 11:12am
There are some videos on YouTube about rebuilding Marvel Schebler carbs.

Here is one:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OEa-PcyxY54" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OEa-PcyxY54


Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2014 at 2:11pm
Originally posted by JimD JimD wrote:

I was gonna suggest Don do the brake pins on a WD, but then we wouldn't be able to have any audio.


Well Jim I might do a video on WD/WD45/D17 brake pins sometime down the road, Most of the guys on here will not like the way I change brakes, I cut the pins off first thing and don't fight them danged old pins at $15.00 per pin it's to much trouble to save them for me. lol


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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.



Posted By: 1946WP
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2014 at 10:07pm
great video, thanks.


Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2014 at 4:15pm
Thanks to EVERYONE involved in the making of this film!!  GREAT job by all concerned.  Don, accolades to you for knuckling under and becoming a movie star now.  Hats off to you!
For you guys on iPhones, here is a converter place to make this better for your phones and also to you guy on PCs that want to save this for the future.
http://www.clipconverter.cc/" rel="nofollow - http://www.clipconverter.cc/
I saved it in AVI and also MOV for future use.
** BE VERY CAREFUL,,,,,when you go to download the video, another window will open with some jibberish in it.  DO NOT click on ANYTHING in this window except the X in the corner to SHUT THIS WINDOW!! **

I like the idea of doing a brake job on a WD/WD45.  And I agree with you Don on just cutting the pins out!  Saves a lot of time and grief!

Congrats!!  You are right up there with Tom Mix now.  LOL


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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17


Posted By: j.w.freck
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2014 at 7:24pm
that's the way I do it to don,i give them one chance and then it is the Hobart plasma torch.....


Posted By: BennyLumpkin
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2014 at 7:15am
I've tried watching this on my phone and computer and the sound is muffled and garbled.. anyone else have that problem?

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Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254
1945 WF
1945 WC135755
1951 WD68085
1953 WD45-150217
1957 WD45D-230744D
B110


Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2014 at 7:52am
I just looked at it and the video is working fine for me. 

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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.



Posted By: dashingrampallian
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2014 at 2:46am
Originally posted by JimD JimD wrote:

It's finally done!
My son had a lot of commitments this summer, and I forgot to upload the video while he was gone last week. Anyway, here it is. He has about 20+ hours in editing it. Yes, it really does take that long. If you wish to contact him directly, I can get you his information.


Nice video... :)


Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2014 at 8:54am
Originally posted by j.w.freck j.w.freck wrote:

that's the way I do it to don,i give them one chance and then it is the Hobart plasma torch.....

I'm going to get a diff head for my plasma torch that will let me get up inside that little hole better. lol  


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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.



Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2015 at 6:50pm
Don you did a great job!!!  Thanks to all involved with this effort.  Mark


Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2015 at 9:06pm
OK guys after a phone call I got asking about the oil pan INFO, I just went back to watch the video again and low and behold I made a big mistake on the oil pan's with I said in the video it was 4 3/4" that's wrong, it is 4 7/8"
I'm sorry for the wrong INFO in the video, Please add this note to your list.


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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.



Posted By: beanking
Date Posted: 09 Feb 2015 at 12:59pm
With background noisebut understand what his talking loud and clear.


Posted By: David Terry
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2015 at 6:10am
Great Video. I am in the process of upgrading my WAC and I for sure don't want any oil leaks. I've got an Oliver 880 with a pretty good oil leak in the rear, and I'm going to pull it and see where I went wrong the first time I "fixed it". Thanks again for making the video. Dave


Posted By: alliskid13
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2015 at 9:08pm
Thank you to everyone who was involved in the video. I am rebuilding my 57 WD45 and needed a few tips on putting the seals on my oil pan.


Posted By: JM
Date Posted: 14 May 2015 at 9:12pm
Great video, wish I had seen it before I did mine. I have one question, can the rear seal be replaced in the tractor? Would you have to loosen the mains to let the crank drop a little?


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 14 May 2015 at 9:19pm
Originally posted by JM JM wrote:

Great video, wish I had seen it before I did mine. I have one question, can the rear seal be replaced in the tractor? Would you have to loosen the mains to let the crank drop a little?

You wouldn't have to loosen the crank, just the remove the rear cap and remove the top retainer. The clutch and flywheel have to be removed to do this.


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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: allishawk
Date Posted: 30 May 2015 at 5:59am
Great video Don. What should a guy use for gasket material when making the "F" gasket for the early motors?


Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 30 May 2015 at 1:01pm
Originally posted by allishawk allishawk wrote:

Great video Don. What should a guy use for gasket material when making the "F" gasket for the early motors?

I make .012" to .015" thick gaskets. Hope this helps.


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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.



Posted By: BillyTheKid
Date Posted: 09 Jun 2015 at 11:44am
Great video. Should be titled A Hundred Ways for Your New Oil Pan Gasket To Leak.


Posted By: MARK W (NY)
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2015 at 9:40pm
When talking about the  F gaskets    You said the early models, ,where does a 1950 WD fall into the mix Early or late ?    Thanks    

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Its a Great Life if you don't weaken


Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2015 at 5:46am
Originally posted by MARK W (NY) MARK W (NY) wrote:

When talking about the  F gaskets    You said the early models, ,where does a 1950 WD fall into the mix Early or late ?    Thanks    

Mark, your WD will use the little F gaskets, If you go back and watch the video again I show how to tell the difference in the F gaskets needed.
Hope this helps.
Don 


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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.



Posted By: 79fordblake
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2016 at 5:53pm
Geez I hate to even ask this question because I watched the video and I know what it said. But anyway here I go...lol. I had my WD45 block aligned bored so there will be no shims. I ordered the correct NOS "F" gaskets from my Agco dealer. Will they cause an issue using them or do I need to do something else?


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2016 at 11:57am
Line boring shouldn't make any difference. That only removes the shims from the Main Bearing and has nothing to do with the rear seal.



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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: 79fordblake
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2016 at 12:21pm
So the "F" gaskets won't hold the main cap up giving more clearance?


Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2016 at 5:04pm
Hey Blake, please go back and look at the video again at 9:50 to 10:00 I talk about F gaskets and line boring. I talked about the F gaskets in the 170 that don't have shims and still use the F gaskets. If you need more INFO PM me and we can go over more.I'd be happy to help.


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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.



Posted By: srvpks
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2018 at 6:06pm
Thanks for making & posting this video, it's very helpful. I might have missed it in the video but do you apply gasket sealer to the "F" gaskets?


Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2018 at 11:07pm
Originally posted by srvpks srvpks wrote:

Thanks for making & posting this video, it's very helpful. I might have missed it in the video but do you apply gasket sealer to the "F" gaskets?
No sealer on the F gaskets, just clean and dry.


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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.



Posted By: srvpks
Date Posted: 30 Jul 2018 at 7:16pm
Thanks Don!


Posted By: New Old Owner
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2019 at 2:20pm
I recently found Don's video when I discovered my front seal leaking. I've had the WD for 1.5 yrs and the PO said he paid to have the rear seal replaced. To replace the front seal do I also need to replace the rear seal? I plan to order parts from Steiner and want to make sure I have everything needed. I don't have an indoor shop so will be replacing it in the elements. Any help/advice appreciated.


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2019 at 8:27pm
No, all you really need to do is pull the radiator out of the way and get the front pulley off. The seal can be removed by using a self tapping screw and prying it out.
 I would advice you check concentricity, between the bore and the crankshaft before installing a new seal. The front cover is not doweled in place, so there is no guarantee it is line up properly, since it can 'float' in the bolt holes.
 There are several ways you can do this. A magnetic base with a dial indicator, mounted on the crankshaft would be great, but most guys don't have these things in their toolbox.
 I know people have turned a short plug so the OD is .002 smaller than the seal bore, then bore the middle out to .002 over the crankshaft diameter, and us it a s a gage or alignment tool.


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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2019 at 9:10pm
Originally posted by New Old Owner New Old Owner wrote:

I recently found Don's video when I discovered my front seal leaking. I've had the WD for 1.5 yrs and the PO said he paid to have the rear seal replaced. To replace the front seal do I also need to replace the rear seal? I plan to order parts from Steiner and want to make sure I have everything needed. I don't have an indoor shop so will be replacing it in the elements. Any help/advice appreciated.

New Old Owner,
First: Welcome to the forum!
I would ask how bad it the front seal leaking? Sometimes the pain is not worth the gain??
If the PO paid to have the rear seal done, and its not leaking then someone did a good job on it!

I have done a couple of these in different ways. It has gererally been improved when I am done but I would call it a controlled leak after the repairs! Just my 2 cents:)

CTucker has excellent suggestions for the tool to align the crank and housing. 
And no you dont have to do the rear seal when replacing the front one. 
Realize that to do this front seal you may or may not need to have the timing cover loose to move it into alignment with the crank! That could mean more tear down and more room needed to work. If you take the timing cover off you will need the timing cover gasket also. Then I think about the pan gasket corners which are under the timing cover lower corners. Humm. If I were you, I would call and see if Don(MO) would take the time to walk you through the front seal replacement process too. He is very good on these old WD's! It would be well worth your time!

He convinced me that the rear seal work needs to have the engine removed to do it right!

Regards,
 Chris


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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets



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