Hand Clutch
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9207
Printed Date: 24 Sep 2024 at 6:25pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Hand Clutch
Posted By: 48lakes
Subject: Hand Clutch
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2010 at 10:02am
| I have a hand clutch on a 1954 A.C. CA model that dose not work how do I fix it. |
Replies:
Posted By: GlenninPA
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2010 at 10:05am
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You are going to have to provide more info.
Is it always engaged, will not disengage?
Will it not engage?
Is it engaging but slipping?
It could be a number of things, but it is likely you will need to pull it off and rebuild it.
Depending on what is wrong, will determine how much you will spend to get it working again.
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Posted By: 48lakes
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2010 at 11:23am
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It runs and drives great throughout all the gears. The P.T.O disengages when foot clutch is pressed. The lever for the hand clutch is free to move forward and back but nothing happens.
What is the function of the hand clutch this is my first tractor with a hand clutch.? |
Posted By: firebrick43
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2010 at 11:35am
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Mice get in there and piss, rusting things up. There are two failure modes. One is that the clutch doesn't work or slips, rebuilding the clutch is necessary and expensive. The other failure mode is that it doesn't disengage, which is what your problem is. If you step on the brakes and pull the clutch does the tractor die or does it stop but fells like it wants to go? If it dies, someone probably has bolted it together. If it stops, it either needs adjustment, get a manual, or is rusted up. Mine didn't completely disengage, and I thought I was going to have to disassemble it this winter, but after using the tractor for a couple months last winter it finally freed up and works properly now. There is a hole under the axle/clutch, use a wire/claw/finger to clean the crap out of there. Keep the tractor under cover to keep water out of the clutch and final drives. Use it occasionally to keep it free but don't abuse it. The purpose of the hand clutch is sort of a live pto and hydraulics. When you have a mower/baler/other powered implement and you want to stop but keep the implement or hydraulics going, use the hand clutch. Other wise use the foot clutch. O, and sometimes, people instead of spending the money to rebuild a slipping clutch, they just bolt the thing together and then its as if you don't have a clutch at all. |
Posted By: GlenninPA
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2010 at 12:56pm
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sounds to me like somebody bolted it together.
In addition to rebuilding it (because they probably bolted it together because it didn't work), you may have to buy any pieces that they discarded when they disabled it.....
That being said, it is a task that can be tackled, I think a couple guys on here did it, in fact my buddy WilM (IA) did a pretty good photo essay on it. Not sure if it was on this forum or the old one though, I'm thinking the old one.
Parts are available, but it will not be a $10 fix.
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Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2010 at 1:17pm
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When I rebuilt the hand clutch in my CA, I got a kit to replace the friction material and I also replaced the springs. Good thing I got the springs as the originals were significantly shorter than the new ones. I would also use blue Loctite on the bolts that hold the clutch together. Mine backed out and I had to go back in and tighten them again. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Wil M (NEIA)
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2010 at 5:14pm
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I am going to agree with Glenn on this one, sounds like your hand clutch is bolted together or it is totally out of adjustment. A manual will tell you how to adjust it. Not hard to adjust or rebuild, but like was stated, it isn't a $10 fix. I just did mine last winter and like Glenn said, have plenty of pictures of it. If I remember right, it cost me just a little over $250 for new clutch discs and new springs and I had to buy the 3 expensive springs in it plus the 8 or so cheaper springs plus a new bearing.
This is what the assembled clutch looks like sitting on the bench after I had rebuilt everything and before it was ready to go back in the final drive and back on the tractor.
 The clutch is on the left side and the throw out is on the right. The bearing is not in the picture but sits on top of the assembly on the right. This is what you may have to adjust inside of your final drive as you want that with in a certain distance of the clutch in order for the clutch to work. Here again, a manual will help you with the adjustment aspects etc. It can be adjusted with out having to take anything apart but in order to get to the clutch you will need to take the final drive off to get at everything.
This is what I found when I took my final drive off. It isn't supposed to look this way LOL:
 This is what it looked like just before I went to re-install the final drive:
 Good luck and if you need help, just let us know.
Wil
------------- "Yet there are soulless men whose hand and brain tear down what time will never give again." Anderson M Scruggs |
Posted By: Rick of HopeIN
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2010 at 6:17pm
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I was told they are very unforgiving clutches. Sometimes even with new friction disks they require some more work to get them to engage properly. Everything in the differential has to be working good too, it get lots of exercise. CA is a nice machine tho and a working hand clutch would make it so much better if you plan to do any real PTO work. For pulling wagons and chores around the barns I think some people just locked em up and decided it was not worth the money to fix. |
Posted By: Chris/CT
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2010 at 6:41pm
| I have a nice set if linings w/ rivets for your rebuild, also parts clutch if you need any parts |
Posted By: StewartMD
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2010 at 7:29pm
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Mine was slipping. I really didn't have a good place to work on my tractor. Made the mistake of getting a quote from the local dealer ($2500) and a local tractor repair shop (1600). Once I heard how much they wanted I tackled the task myself. Taking everything apart isn't hard. Paul B in MD rebuilt the clutch for me, luckily he lives about 15 minutes from us. You may also want to check and replace any seals in your rearend while you have it tore down. Good luck and have fun! ------------- 8030, 8010, 220, 185, 160, D-17, WD, Unstyled WC, CA, G, 20-35, Gleaner E |
Posted By: Rick of HopeIN
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2010 at 7:34pm
| A few guys around here (Indiana) have done it successfully. Probably one of those things it is best to ask for lots of help. My luck I would get it together and find out it needs to be pulled apart again for an adjustment. |
Posted By: 48lakes
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2010 at 8:41pm
| Thanks Wil for the pics, and all the other guy's for the help.I am waiting for a shop manual. looking at these pics I wonder if because of the location of this clutch assy would it have anything to do with diff lock up ?? , what am I sacrificing buy not reparing the clutch, I hope to hook up a snow blower to it , do you think ground speed would be to fast in 1st gear , while trying to maintain 540 PTO ,no what I mean |
Posted By: Wil M (NEIA)
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2010 at 9:49pm
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I am not quite following you on the diif lock up part.....
By not fixing the hand clutch the only thing you would be giving up is the ability to stop forward or reward travel while still having the PTO operate. Without the hand clutch the only way to stop your motion of travel is to push in the foot clutch which will also stop the PTO, may not be ideal for operating a snow blower. The PTO is also what operates the hydralics. 1st gear in a CA is slower than reverse gear.....
As far as taking the hand clutch apart and putting it back together, it is not that hard at all.
For the most part the following picture shows everything that is inside the actual clutch part. The only things that are not in this picture are the springs, the ball bearings and the clutch plates
 This shows the new bearing, springs, clutch plates (installed on the piece in the upper left hand corner of the previous picture) and bushing:
 Wil
------------- "Yet there are soulless men whose hand and brain tear down what time will never give again." Anderson M Scruggs |
Posted By: Rick of HopeIN
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2010 at 9:51pm
| I releases only one side axle so the dif spins free to drive the PTO. Strange but it worked. |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2010 at 6:01am
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Several on here have rebuilt that clutch.....be careful whom you listen to, though, as I am about to do it AGAIN! My clutch won't disengage - will be pulling it into the shop to pull it apart again. So I'll likely be asking some questions on here! ------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: GregLawlerMinn
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2010 at 9:34am
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Thanks Wil M for the great pictures. Agree with the others; a stuck clutch is normally one that is rusted shut, or bolted/welded shut by a previos owner. A working hand clutch makes the CA a very versatile tractor. It can run a 5' brush hog or a 5' snowblower just great and motion can be stopped very quickly by pulling back the hand clutch lever (many Ford and Farmall owners have run into trees, barns, or other fixed objects try to stop the motion using only a foot clutch...until they installed an over-riding pto coupler).
The hand clutch on my lawn mower CA (Woods L306; 6' cut) was slipping last season and the brakes were not good. This winter, I pulled the finals and discovered chipmunk/mice nests soaked in oils from worn out pinion seals. Removed the hand clutch; the clutch linings were oil soaked as well. Opened it up and cleaned it with brake cleaner. Springs, balls, ball seats were fine (guess running in oil was good for them). The brake drum is part of the hand clutch and it was worn down pretty good. After nearly fainting when I heard the cost of a new drum for the clutch, I took it to my local machinist who turned the drum down, machined and installed a interference fit ring to bring the drum back to the right OD (went on like a starter ring gear; and for good measure, he spot welded it in place). Installed new pinion seals and brake shoes. Looking forward to a much better running lawn mower this summer.
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Posted By: 48lakes
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2010 at 12:06pm
| Hey guy's what engine oil should I be using ,Ichanged my oil and now it smokes real bad out the exh pipe , Iused 20 50 oil |
Posted By: Wil M (NEIA)
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2010 at 4:15pm
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I use 10-30 in all my tractors.... ------------- "Yet there are soulless men whose hand and brain tear down what time will never give again." Anderson M Scruggs |