starter?
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Other Topics
Forum Name: Pulling Forum
Forum Description: Forum dedicated to Tractor and Garden Pulling
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=85228
Printed Date: 30 Nov 2024 at 9:11pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: starter?
Posted By: mufflerboltz
Subject: starter?
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2014 at 10:47pm
|
What are you guys doing for starters on higher compression engines? Had an older gentleman tell me today that on these engines the nose cone can break.
|
Replies:
Posted By: patrickmull
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2014 at 10:39am
|
I have wonder this also i would like to put a gear reduction starter on mine
|
Posted By: cotncrzy
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2014 at 6:56am
I have had starter night mares, but never broken a nose cone. I have sheared the drive off on several occasions. I have a starter guy that has built one heck of a starter, still a 6 volt, I use a 12V 1000cca battery, it will spin the heck out of mine, just cant take it for long. I have 3 spares built carry one with the gas can wherever we go.
-------------
C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM!
|
Posted By: THE-MAN
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2014 at 7:28am
|
You usually only break the nose cone when the timing is too advanced and it kicks back. Half of people's problems is faulty timing.
|
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2014 at 7:56am
|
I just love these side-line geniuses who will say something like " you're gonna break nose-cones off your starter" and then offer zero solutions. I've never broken nothing. I always use the later WD-45 gas Delco starter that has a center bearing inside of it to reduce armature flex. There is a better/stronger starter drive available at any good starter/gen/alt repair shop that withstands the "hit" of 12 volts better than the original starter drive. Big battery cables and a good ground are imperative. Correct iginition timing is a must, along with an operator who actually knows where the throttle and choke need to be to achieve a good and quick firing of the engine, instead of constant cranking.
|
Posted By: mufflerboltz
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2014 at 8:52am
|
Thanks for the advice guys. Trying to plan all this stuff out as I took my block and crank down to the shop last week so now trying to round up all the little stuff I'll need.
|
Posted By: IL-D17
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2014 at 11:14am
|
Check out hitorque.com and give them a call. they built a starter for my near 12-1 CR 226 engine and it works great. All they need are some engine specifics and a few measurements where the starter mounts and BOOM you gota strong gear reduction starter at your doorstep.
|
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2014 at 9:04pm
|
Use a diesel starter. MACK
|
Posted By: patrickmull
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2014 at 5:47am
|
IL-d17 how did you do at the princeton IN natpa pull
|
Posted By: cotncrzy
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2014 at 8:55am
|
Mack, I tried the diesel starter, it wouldnt reach the ring gear properly. Should it have been as simple as to "bolt in"?
-------------
C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM!
|
Posted By: mgburchard
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2014 at 7:33pm
|
The secret from the nuclear power pullers is to run more voltage than amperage. Instead of running 12 volts at 1000cca try 16 volts at 550cca. Up to 24 volts just lower the amp capacity.
|
Posted By: IL-D17
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2014 at 8:39pm
|
Not worth a darn, I ran in the bottom 3rd of the pack all day. If consistency is worth any thing I was that LOL. It was my fault for trying to run too hi a gear in the 5500 bt I tried it and ran outa ponies. Sooo I came home and tore engine down lol gonna do a lil more to the ol' girl.
|
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 03 Mar 2014 at 8:19am
|
On a WD you may have to drill a new hole in starter to set at proper depth. It has a tappered hole, but a streight hole will work. MACK
|
|