Allis B {LOW RIDER}
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Garden Tractors
Forum Description: A great place to discuss the Simplicity and Allis Chalmers Garden Models
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=80949
Printed Date: 04 May 2024 at 9:57am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Allis B {LOW RIDER}
Posted By: helmoozark
Subject: Allis B {LOW RIDER}
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2013 at 7:56am
Have Found an Allis B but need to know how to flip the front end and bull gears to convert to a low rider. Can I Keep the stock seat. How do I rig the fenders? I need a full run down on this process. Like to talk to someone that has been through this process. Can you still use pull type mowers with these set ups? Any info would be appreciated!!! 
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Replies:
Posted By: sandman2234
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2013 at 8:05am
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Welcome to the forum! How does it run, and operate? What are you trying to do with it as a "low-rider"? Show, or to use it? I would think that making it low would tend to be a problem clearing rocks in the Ozarks, but I guess low hanging limbs could be avoided easier. David from jax |
Posted By: helmoozark
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2013 at 8:11am
| Runs good. Looking for lower center of gravity. Rocks will be a problem --but-- Going to do some parading also still want to use as a mower. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2013 at 8:45am
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I assume your turning the final drive cases forward 90 degrees and not backward ? Turning them forward will lower about 7 inches and look similar to an IB or industrial. You can make brackets and mount WD45 fenders on it, or you can make larger brackets and keep the B fenders. I made one and cutout a large triangular plate that bolts to the final drive drawbar holes, and comes up to hold the foot pedal 2 x 2 beam, and the fender. See if i can post a photo. I made a straight axle for the front end. Think i too two 5/8 x 3 inch straps and welded together to get a 1 - 1/4 x 4 inch solid box. Welded pipes on the end to hold new bushings and reused the old spindles. Seems like you have to do a little rework on the spindles because the tie rod is on the other side ??
One problem you will get is the steering wheel tube seems kind of low when you move the fenders and tires forward. Seat location is important. I normally shorten the steering shaft 6 inches to get a little more room between seat and wheel. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2013 at 8:47am
 ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2013 at 8:48am
 ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2013 at 8:54am
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O.K., i reread the post and sounds like your turning the alxes 180 degrees. That will lower your unit about 14 inches. Your not going to have much ground clearance at all. Morre of a road tractor at that point. I mounted a belly mower to the unit above and PTO height off the ground is tight on it. 7 inches less would be difficult. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: ErikR
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2013 at 12:34am
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Here's a link to a B with flipped axles.........
http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=46740" rel="nofollow - http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=46740 ------------- 1950 B |
Posted By: Glockhead SWMI
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2013 at 3:00pm
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I'm getting ready to build one like yours steve. Plan on using a ca trans.Ought to be fun. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2013 at 4:32pm
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always wanted to get a CA 4 speed and put in a B... That would be nice. Not sure you get more top speed, but better ratios for 1 and 2. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: AJ
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2013 at 9:44pm
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Steve how did you do your brake linkages and draw bar with the finals turned up like that? ------------- Can't fix stupid |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2013 at 9:59pm
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brake rods are 1/2 inch diameter and sweeping 90 degree bend. Made them look like the IB version. (I have an IB also). I did make a special draw bar that bolts to the original holes in the finals and sticks out back, but later i took that off and put a 6 ft belly mower under it. Most of the brackets and linkage for seat, brakes, fenders, mower have to be hand built. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2013 at 10:08pm
 ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: Glockhead SWMI
Date Posted: 12 Dec 2013 at 12:54pm
| Thanks for the pics Steve. I hope mine turns out half as nice as yours! |
Posted By: AJ
Date Posted: 12 Dec 2013 at 7:26pm
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Think I'm gonna have to build one of these... ------------- Can't fix stupid |
Posted By: firecowallis
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2013 at 9:18am
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how are we getting oil to the right spots of the bull gears ------------- allis g 7045 200 wd45 wd45d c ca 6080 u |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2013 at 10:31am
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The bull gear only needs an inch of oil on the bottom and it will sling oil all over. Kinda like the way it works in any normal B. It might not hurt to put a double seal in the pinion shaft (one facing in and one facing out) to keep oil in the finals from seeping into the differential.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2013 at 4:19pm
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In the brake rod photo a couple posts above, you can see a 2 inch hole thru the heavy plate, bolted to the final drive case... about 3 inches forward of the bull gear shaft brg cover (plug).. That is the access hole to the pipe plug in the final drive oil pan. You can pump gear lube thru that access. FActory holds less than 1 quart. When angled at 90 degrees, you can get about 1 quart in the pan. As Charlie said, it all works by the bull gear flinging oil all over the inside... same as the factory setup. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |