D14 power steering install
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=7853
Printed Date: 23 Sep 2024 at 11:20pm
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Topic: D14 power steering install
Posted By: Steve(SEMN)
Subject: D14 power steering install
Date Posted: 09 Feb 2010 at 9:20am
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Purchased a factory power steering unit and installed it. The steering wheel will only turn if I turn the wheel with arm strength. The steering wheel is easier to turn with the engine off. Could it be a bad steering valve(motor) which is on the left side when sitting on the tractor. We do have the lines hooked up correct.
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Replies:
Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 09 Feb 2010 at 9:35am
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if you are sure your inlet and return are not reversed, then the inner workings are not sliding and are stuck. When the wheel is turned the spool slides to help push the cylinder rack forward or rearward to assist the mechanical steering. Check the plumbing, return, and then you maybe in for a tear down of the body of the control valve unit.
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Posted By: BrettPhillips
Date Posted: 09 Feb 2010 at 10:29am
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Check to be sure that the steering input shaft is free to float in and out of the valve housing. This end play is what actuates the valve spool. If the splined shaft that comes forward from the universal joint is too long or bound up in the coupling, it could cause a problem like you describe. The reason I say this, is that there are two different length shafts. Perhaps you have modified the longer one from your manual setup by shortening it to fit. (do-able, but the length is important.) Also check to be sure someone hasn't got the cylinder lines mixed up at the valve. That's not likely unless the lines have been replaced with homemade versions. Basically just what tbran said....
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Posted By: john(MI)
Date Posted: 09 Feb 2010 at 11:37am
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I just put one on one of my D14's. If yours came with the original rigid lines, there is no way you could have hooked them up wrong. I had a heck of a time just getting them connected, there was no way I could have swapped them!
You might try loosening the large screw/bolt on the side of the pump. It has a spring inside and acts like a relief valve, but I'm not exactly sure what it does. I'm not a hyd expert! You don't want the tractor running when you do that!!!
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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Posted By: TerryMN
Date Posted: 09 Feb 2010 at 1:01pm
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I think Brett has something with the free play on the shaft splines. The Steering motor also acts like a valve and has to center itself. If it is bound one way or the other by the manuel side of the system it will keep sending oil to the cylinder.
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Posted By: Steve(SEMN)
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2010 at 7:56am
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Okay guys edited my post again after a night of evaluation. Any other ideas. Will the pump not run if the steering valve motor does not work.
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Posted By: BrettPhillips
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2010 at 8:08am
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Well, if the lines are hooked up right and the valve spool is free to move, my next move would be to check for fluid flow. Try cracking the small line that runs from the back of the pump to the valve with the engine running. If there is no pressure or flow there, check for obstructions in the large suction line or a sheared key in the pump. The Barnes pumps are bad for wearing out the woodruff keys and keyways in the shaft and gears. I put probably 40 hours of machine shop time into rebuilding mine with new parts that I made.
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Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2010 at 8:13am
If you have a Barnes pump and need parts, that will be a challenge. I also had to search for parts - got the drive gear (NOS) from Eldon in WA and the driven gear from someone in MI. Had to have that one machined down - it was for a higher capacity pump and thus too wide for mine. But it works!
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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Posted By: Steve(SEMN)
Date Posted: 27 Feb 2010 at 10:46am
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Update on the power steering.I have good news. Brett Phillips was right about the spool valve needing to float freely in and out. The first one did not move. Examined a second control valve body and noticed that the spool valve moved 1/4 inch or so by hand. Installed this second valve last night and I now have one finger power steering. Do these valves get stuck on working tractors or play out in time from sitting? Does anyone rebuild them? Thanks for all your input guys.
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Posted By: norm [ind]
Date Posted: 27 Feb 2010 at 8:48pm
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we have the 228850 gear in stock neew repos 10t 1-800-254-3116
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Posted By: onetotaltoolman
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2024 at 6:16pm
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Ok - finished a stem to stern rebuild on a D14 that was headed to the salvage yard. New paint, and it looks cool. It was gushing oil from anywhere there was oil, so now complete. Except,,, one oil leak. After a few weeks of prodding, the seal on the rear of the steering control motor leaks. It isn't the seal. Replaced the original when i rebuilt the power steering unit , and when the ONLY leak on the tractor appeared after the overhaul, i pulled the front support, and replaced the seal again. still leaks. only hint i have that something is not right is a slight delay when the tractor is still and i turn from right to left. Very minor hitch before smooth operation. I have spent a ton of time trying to figure this one out. Now i'm wondering if i may have done something wrong on the overhaul of the steering control motor (which is really just replacing o-rings). For those that chimed in on this thread, does anyone have any ideas? Facing reality that i will have to pull the front support off again (3rd. time),,,,, Thanks to all.
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Posted By: BrettPhillips
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2024 at 9:28am
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Sounds like you may have a shaft problem, or possibly a bearing problem? My mind is now rusty on the D14 power steering, since mine has been flawless for nearly 15 years. Sounds like you're going to have a really nice tractor when you get the steering sorted out!
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