Allis D17 electrical problem, no spark
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Topic: Allis D17 electrical problem, no spark
Posted By: boscoe
Subject: Allis D17 electrical problem, no spark
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2010 at 12:51pm
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I am not getting spark. Power wire from switch to neg on coil, (power when key is on) I have power neg terminal on coil , positive on coil to distributor gets power, I get power to post on inside of dist where points and condenser are at, wire to condenser gets power, power to points, I took off coil wire from cap turned over engine with wire close to block and no spark.I tested all of this with a test light that was well grounded. I dont have spark to the plugs. Is there a way to test coil, points condenser ? The points are set @ .20 I have always had spark and now nothing
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Replies:
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2010 at 1:12pm
Turn your engine so the cam in the distributor lets the points close. If you put new points in, pull a piece of heavy paper or an uncolored piece of thin cardboard through the points. They normally have an oil like coating on them to prevent corrosion.
Still no spark, check for power on the points side of the coil. With the points closed, the test light should not light, points open it should light. Use a non metallic item to open the points. You can manually open the points and cause a spark to jump. Points and condenser are inexpensive and not the quality they once were. The points would be unlikely to be bad out of the box, but it is possible the condenser could be. You can remove the condenser and still get a spark by working the points, but it will be much weaker. If all is coming up ok, the coil could be at fault.
Before you put a coil on it, how is the battery? I had a similar issue on my Oliver 60 once. It was originally 6V, I converted it to 12V. It would crank fine, but would not fire until the start button was released. My battery had a bad cell. The voltage was dropping to about 8 volts while cranking. Below about 9.5V, a 12V ignition system can't produce a spark under compression. It cranked fine because the starter being 6V was well within the intended working voltage.
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Posted By: firebrick43
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2010 at 1:17pm
If you are running a coil with an internal resistor, unhook the wires to the coil. The resistance between the two outside studs should be somewhere near .7 ohms to 1.7 ohms. From one of the post to the center post should be 7.5K ohms to 10.5K ohms. Not hard numbers but should be close. You can test a condenser by checking its resistance, again unhook, hook up lead and touch case with other and resistance should start at 0 and climb slowly to infinity, Points can be checked by manually breaking them open, seeing a spark, check for corrosion and pitting on the faces, touch up with a file.
condenser and points should be replaced yearly as part of a tune up, to cheap really to fool with, available at your local napa.
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