Allis Engine overheats what is wrong?
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=7591
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Topic: Allis Engine overheats what is wrong?
Posted By: boscoe
Subject: Allis Engine overheats what is wrong?
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2010 at 4:25pm
| Tractor engine overheats top hose wasnt warm so I replaced the therastat and now the hose is still not warm/ hor but I can feel water in it. The hose coming from the pump to the therm housing is hot . Could it be water pump is not working anymore? or something else. I drained coolant it seemed fine but a little dirty. Do i take out thermastat and see if it helps at least to see if it will circulate or take off water pump? |
Replies:
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2010 at 4:38pm
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I think I would take the stat out first and warm things up and look in the top of the rad to see if you have any circulation. Did you back flush the rad when you drained it? Could be stuck thermostat, if there is no movement with the stat out it could be the water pump or could be plugged up somewhere. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Gary in da UP
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2010 at 4:50pm
| How do you know it is over heating? Do you have coolant overflowing? It is normal for a freshly filled system to burp , it needs to find its " happy place" and as long as coolant level is above the tubes in the radiators header , your good. An infrared thermometer will tell exactly what temp you have whereever you point the laser beam, buy or borrow one . Don't expect your engine to run properly below 180*,and it won't reach that temp without a thermostat. Don't run a pressure cap of greater than 4lbs Most allis tractors will perform perfectly without the cooling system being pressureized Over pressureizing the system will lead to a leaky radiator eventualy .Did you install your new thermostat in the proper orientation?. Check your fan belt for proper tension and are you sure that the impeller IS turning and not spinning on the shaft or that the fins on the pump impeller are not rusted/ eroded away ? Unless your rad is plugged , I doubt it is overheating, Tell us more specifics. Hope this helps , Gary |
Posted By: ALinIL
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2010 at 5:11pm
| You can also check the thermostat before installation. Just drop in a pot of hot water and continue to heat til it opens. Should open before it comes to a boil(212F.). The thermos usually are marked and open at 180-190 pending on marking. - AL |
Posted By: Dave Richards (WV)
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2010 at 5:12pm
| The most common heating problem is called "all of the above". Often when you fix one thing, it just shows up another. Has to do with age. you should flush the Radiator whether it needs it or not. When I drained the coolant on a D-12 I had just bought, I found 12 hickory nuts in the bottom hose. Guy I got it from said it always ran hot and that was just its nature. With out the nuts, it ran fine. |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2010 at 5:58pm
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What engine? I saw once on a Chevy Cavalier the coolant was so rusty that the impeller on the pump disintegrated. It had very little circulation. Was fine at idle, but overheated while driving. The best way to fill a cooling system is with an "Air Lift". Works great on vehicles with air bleeds on them or on vans with rear heat. It pulls a vacuum on the cooling system, then you stick a hose from the tool in a bucket of coolant and it completely fills the system with no air pockets. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: boscoe
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2010 at 7:59pm
| I was thinking about taking the water pump off first and checking that out, I installed a new themastat in the proper direction and place, but also thought about taking it out and running it just to see if things circulate , My temp gage shows the heat creeping up to 230 then 240 and then I shut it off it doesnt overheat when idleing only when driving. As far as flushing rad I thought about that already today.thanks |
Posted By: DREAM
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2010 at 8:35pm
| What tractor? I'd check the water pump. Pull the pump, clamp some vise grips to the front of the shaft, and see if there is any slippage from the impeller. That's after you check all the hoses, make sure all of the radiator fins are washed out thoroughly, make sure the tubes inside aren't clogged with stop leak or rust, blow air through one hose(with the tstat removed) to make sure nothing is blocking the inlets/outlets, and make sure the fan belt is tight. If it's a CE engine, watch that bottom left water pump bolt. I've had to drill out and retap a few of those after the bolt wrung off. Bolt will go into the water jacket if it's a little long. Always measure the replacement to make sure it doesn't stick out to the inside. |
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2010 at 8:42pm
| Dave, I gotta ask , how the devil did kickory nuts get into a rad hose ???? |
Posted By: dhexom
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2010 at 9:05pm
| I had trouble with my D-19 diesel and I had to drill a little hole in the thermostate so it would not air lock on me. Tis solved my overheating I hope this will help you. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2010 at 11:22pm
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Were you the guy a few days ago that couldn't get a tractor running? Timing was off?Anyhow,if you have retarded timing it will run hot and sound labored...and the cooling system won't fix it. |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2010 at 6:07am
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About nuts in the rad hose.......my buddy and I found a large collection of acorns in the radiator on one of his tractors. We THINK he had some "help" from one of his grandkids who loves to climb up on his tractors and play with things like radiator caps! ------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: TexasAllis
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2010 at 7:09am
Take out the Tstat and check it first. Just because it is new does not mean it will work. I have had brand new Tstats not work.
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boscoe wrote:Posted By: ac-mike
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2010 at 7:21am
| I had this problem with a 185 AC. Went to the farm to see why it was overheating after it had been serviced. The engine was hot but thermostat housing was cool. Of course changed thermostat but made no difference. Tried warming up engine several times but nothing changed. I then loosened thermostat housing and bleed out air trapped in top of head. Problem was solved. I thought this to be odd but it worked. I had never had this problem on a 185 before. Don't know if this is your problem but sending you an idea. |
Posted By: Adam Stratton
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2010 at 9:03am
| I have a D14 that always ran hot, the radiator was full of pecans. I think I counted 39 that came out when I took it off the tractor and shook it and back flushed it. That tractor also had trouble with the carb, and when I took it apart, it had sucked a pecan out of the air cleaner and was lodged in the choke body. Dont remember how many I found in the air cleaner. Tricky things like that arent in the "how to" manuals most times. Sometimes the gauge can go bad also, never hurts to check. |
Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2010 at 12:03pm
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To me, it sounds like a circulation problem. Either air pocket, stuck stat, or water pump impeller heading South. BTW, don't overlook the easiest thing. A loose fan belt.... mailto:Steve@B&B - Steve@B&B |
Posted By: Bill Long
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2010 at 1:39pm
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You know, we had a B one time running hot. Worked on a golf course. Radiator had a leak and from time to time they were filling the radiator with creek water. Creek water has mud in it. Come to find out that the block was clogged with mud. Cleaned it out and ran fine.
Don't think this is your problem but good story.
Good Luck!
Bill Long
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Posted By: boscoe
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2010 at 3:24pm
| It was plugged so water could not circulate, on the opening from the top of the block to top hose, twigs ,leaves, I took rad off and flushed OK now. Power steering didnt work well I drained crud and oil out flushed with diesel, then filled again and now works good. this tractor was abused by its former owner, I am learning that slowly. |
Posted By: Dennis(IA)
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2010 at 9:02pm
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Hey Brian, where would I get an "Air Lift"???
Dennis
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