D-21 injection pump mods?
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Topic: D-21 injection pump mods?
Posted By: ALLISMAN32
Subject: D-21 injection pump mods?
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2013 at 6:23pm
| Getting ready for the county fair pull on saturday, doing some work on the 21. Have the pump apart and had been told that you could take the leaf springs out of the pump to increase fuel delivery. One fellow says it will probably seize the head another says been done before no problems. I should mention it is a 220 pump, i have also ordered the 7080 injector tips from agco. Looking for some first hand experience or advice on the matter. Thanks!!!! |
Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2013 at 6:57pm
| Leaf springs out on a D21 pumpt. Leave out two governor weights (opposite each other) 7080 tips set at 2500 psi if it is a D21 pump head with .290 diameter plungers. If it really is a 220 pump head with .310 plungers, I'm a little wary of removing the leaf springs....maybe jus bottom out the screws all the way. Remove the glass ball and spring from the return outlet on the cover. Don't run it over 3,000 rpm (much over). Leave timing set stock. Use some Stanadyne fuel additive double strength. Do this often enough and you'll spit the turbo out the stack and if it has an old obselete Thompson turbo, be really careful. Your clutch better be in good shape. Alcohol injection is good for another 60 to 80 HP if you do it right. |
Posted By: ALLISMAN32
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2013 at 11:05pm
| Checked the pump and the plungers are .310" , last checked engine speed was 2800 wot with number of weights currently in the pump. Turbo is an air research, dont have the numbers off it right now. I bottomed the allen screws out last year but was needing a little more to try and catch some red guys. Had thought about building a water injection system using washer fluid but time is getting tight, at least for this event. Power was 165 before turning the screws in another half turn or so and backing out the torque screw. What turbo would be a descent upgrade to install that didnt require mangling the hood up? |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2013 at 5:51am
| Direct bolt-on would be from a 7060-7050-7045 for some improvement. You had the leaf springs bottomed and didn't have 7080 injector tips??? go ahead and yank the leaf springs and you're on your own. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2013 at 9:25pm
You should have got a hold of me before buying tips from agco. lol! I can make that pump really run, but it takes some tweaking in all the right places. Do not leave out the leaf springs, the rollers and cam will grind themselves up in short order. DC/DM shoes come in different sizes .005 at a time. I usually file them down carefully to get more roller dimension. too bad I didn't have some time to help you out here! lol! Good luck! ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
ALLISMAN32 wrote:Posted By: ALLISMAN32
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2013 at 6:28pm
| So we went to the fair last week for the 13000 farm stock class and i got 2nd and the wife got third. Got beat by a real hot 970 case, but we beat a 1066 and a 4320 not much competition. I used 6th gear and the 8 button clutch disc i installed a couple years ago slipped but held ok using 5th. Split the tractor this week and put a 6 button back in it and just playing around seems to be holding better than the 8. Put a boost guage on it last night and in high gear taking off ti would get up to thirty pounds of pressure. Brought my timing light home tonight and checked it. Timing was at 8 degrees at 850 rpm's and the injector popping pressure is 2500 with the 7080 tips. Suppose i could advance the timing some more and what would be the optimum point? Never checked one before with a light always set injectors to factory popping pressure and static timing to factory specs. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2013 at 8:33pm
Checking timing with a light on a roosa pump is a very poor way to do it unless you can check it when under full load. The beginning of injection changes as load increases or decreases on a roosa pump. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2013 at 9:28am
| Open the tailgate to your pickup truck. Set that mailto:#@%" rel="nofollow - #@% & timing light on the tailgate. Go for a long drive and hope it's missing when you get home. They were only designed to verify advance movement of a pump, not actual timing. THROW IT AWAY. |
Posted By: hayzhissd17
Date Posted: 18 May 2016 at 11:39am
| i am looking for help on how to get more power out of my d17 diesel quick for pulling season. are d series injection pumps interchangable like a d21 to d17 and what can i do to my injectors to get more fuel. |
Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 19 May 2016 at 9:56pm
|
as to the d17 , sorry, you can put in more fuel, but all you get is black smoke and little if any increase in HP - add a turbo and then you can use more fuel... ------------- When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money.. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 20 May 2016 at 12:32pm
| the Lanova fuel system on a D17 is a different animal than more modern direct injection systems.More air will help but you can add more fuel than will ever burn and make hp. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 20 May 2016 at 3:17pm
| 35 plus years ago, I "turned-up" a D-19 diesel and actually got just a tad over 100 HP for a local tractor pull. Much easier to do the same thing to a 190XT and wind up at 150 HP. |