HD11
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=71773
Printed Date: 22 Sep 2024 at 1:42pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: HD11
Posted By: Andrew_D
Subject: HD11
Date Posted: 12 Jun 2013 at 10:27pm
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Thought I'd start a new thread about our new-to-us dozer ( http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=70998&title=new-to-me-hd11-how-to-operate" rel="nofollow - http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=70998&title=new-to-me-hd11-how-to-operate ) So I've been reading through the manuals and have some questions about filters and fluids. The previous owner estimates they only put on 40-50 hours pushing some fencelines and have done very little maintenance on the machine. (I think he said they only bought it last year.) I think it would be wise to change all fluids and filters once I get it here since who knows when it was last done. I'll put some notes here and please have a look and see if I need to change anything: Cooling System: Don't see a filter listed. Planning to drain as best as I can and re-fill with water, run the engine up to temp, then drain. Once cooled, refill with 50/50 antifreeze. Eng Crankcase: Manual lists SAE30. Is the standard 15w40 that we use on the farm OK here? Or should we go to 10W-30 diesel oil? (We keep both of these in stock.) Could also get single-grade sae30, but it's always nice not to have to stock another type/grade of oil! Filter (A/C#: 4371021) crosses to Fleet Guard #: LF509N. Fuel Filters: A/C#: 065583 crosses to Fleet Guard FF109. Baldwin # PF906. A/C#: 4347787 crosses to Fleet Guard FF106. Baldwin # PF916. On Baldwin's website, both the PF906 and PF916 indicated they could be changed to a spin-on using filter head FB1302 and filter BF593, which crossed to Fleet Guard 3833200s for the base and FF5021 or FF5335 for the filter. Thoughts on changing to a spin-on?? Should the same filter be used on both? I would think the second stage should be a finer filter.... Air Cleaner: Manual says to use the same oil as the engine. Transmission, Final Drives, Track Release Housing: Manual says Engine Oil SAE50. Would 15w40 work or should I look for a 15w50 or single grade sae50? We use 50 weight oil for class 8 truck transmissions, would this work? Grease for Support Roller, Truck Wheel, Track Idler: Manual says to check with my dealer.....hmmm.... Around the farm we use John Deere "Multi-Purpose SD Polyurea". Will this be OK? Or should we use something with "Moly"?? Any other filters or fluids that I missed? Andrew |
Replies:
Posted By: Dozer
Date Posted: 13 Jun 2013 at 6:39am
| Heavy equipment works hard and deserves its oil. Oil has evolved since the manuals were written. Most important is to know where your new machine leaks oil because most old machines do. Most expensive repairs are to the final drive if it runs out of oil. The manuals say motor oil 50wt summer & 30wt winter. Many use GL5, I use universal transmission/hydraulic oil. I use 15w40 diesel motor oil. The hydraulic system is the most neglected. My HD6G's have a screen in the hydraulic tank and 2 filters in the top of the tank. On one of my machines the hydraulic oil was severely contaminated with water and mud. The paper filters had fallen appart and clogged the screen. I suggest cleaning the hydraulic tank. I use universal transmission/hydraulic oil here also. Give your new machine a good start change and check the oil. These are my opinions. |
Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 13 Jun 2013 at 12:32pm
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That's why I want to know what to use. I figure 50 years in the oil game, things have changed! Sounds like 15w40 for the engine and universal hydraulic for everything else?? Wasn't aware of filters for the tanks. I'll have to check the parts book again! Andrew |
Posted By: Dozer
Date Posted: 13 Jun 2013 at 2:57pm
| I have told you what is working sucessfully for me. The most important thing is if your machine has an oil leak, check the oil level often. The oil tank filters is a reference to my HD6G track loader. Allis Chalmers used other manufacturers for loaders and dozers. The hydraulic systems are different. |
Posted By: Lazyts
Date Posted: 13 Jun 2013 at 9:30pm
| I use GL5 in final drives, 15w40 for engine, tractor trans-hydraulic oil for everything else. I know a lot of guys run 15w40 in everything in older Cat machines and it works fine. Really the main thing is that it has oil, and it's not so old as to be half water and out of lubricating quality. |
Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2013 at 5:04am
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Thanks for the info Trevor. Yeah, I figure any oil is better than no oil. (Have used that theory on leaking combine gearboxes to get through the day actually...mix in a bit of this and a bit of that, just keep 'er full!) If my research is correct, GL-5 doesn't really refer to a viscosity though. I see GL-5 referring to 75w-90, 80w-90, 80w-140, 85w-140. Obviously, 85w-140 is going to be a fair bit thicker than 75w-90!! Andrew |
Posted By: Lazyts
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2013 at 12:14pm
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80W90 is what I use, although I have used 85W140 in a leaky final drive. I know what you are talking about with combine gear cases- corn head grease works good. |
Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2013 at 8:22am
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Well, got them home yesterday. Only drove 'er enough to get off the trailer and parked. Question on loading: The seller backed on to the trailer. Since there is so much weight over the front (engine, blade), the machine was standing almost straight up (well, it seemed like it!) trying to go on. I didn't have as much trouble driving off, but I kept the blade down. I've almost always seen dozers hauled facing forward...thoughts?? So the plan is to top off fluids as needed and run 'er up to temp. (There's a few things that need pushing here at the yard.) Then drain fluids, change filters, refill, adjust clutches, etc. Then I've got a yard site that needs some clean-up. Mostly old buildings and such. That will give me a chance to get used to it without watching for trees falling! Steering clutches: The book talks about 1"-3" of free play, then pull back to steer. On this machine, the lever stands almost straight up/down. It can be pulled back to steer, but then the lever is hitting me in the berries! Also, from the straight up/down position, the lever can be pushed forward towards the dash. It feels like it is "snapping" over-center. Adjustment time, I think???? Andrew |
Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2013 at 12:07pm
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Found the serial number: HD11B-3880 Is there a list out there somewhere to narrow the year down? Andrew |
Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2013 at 1:08pm
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So looking through the parts book, I see that there have been a few different fuel filter set-ups. The parts books I have show that they filters used 2 seperate mounting blocks up to S/S:4415, then switched to a single block that held both filters. As mentioned, my serial is 3880, however I have the single block that holds both fuel filters. I'm also seeing different fuel filter numbers. 1 parts books shows filters with seperate filter heads. These filter numbers are different than all of the other parts books I've found. However, all of the other parts books use the same filter numbers, even though some are using 2 filter heads and others are using 1 double filter head! I think I'm going to have to sit down with all of the numbers and do some cross-reference checking! Andrew |
Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2013 at 2:55pm
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OK, so the first stage fuel filter listed above was 4347787. It crossed to Fleetguard # FF106. The first stage filter listed in my other books is 4055563 which also crosses to FF106. So far, so good! Second stage was 065583. It crossed to Fleetguard #FF109. Second stage filter in the other books was 4056633. It also crosses to FF109. So I definitely have the fuel filter numbers straightened out. Not sure why my S/N of 3880 has the 2 filter head when the parts book shows that for post S/N: 4415. Who knows, maybe there were problems with the filter head and it was upgraded. Or maybe the machine has had an engine replacement at some point. I'm still trying to find the engine serial number. It seems to have been buried in a generation of gunk! Andrew |
Posted By: Lazyts
Date Posted: 17 Jun 2013 at 8:27pm
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Somewhere around 1957... (if my memory is correct) |
Posted By: HD6 Merv
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2013 at 12:51am
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yep go along with 57 vintage. you can use the same 50 oil in the finals as 'roadranger' gearboxs I run the chevron 454 series in all my finals cat and ac. Its actually abit thicker than the 90 gear oil if you look at whats called ISO oil charts. Although a lot of it boils down to preferences, and I in no way disagree with what trev prefers and he does own 11s. ------------- tits tyres and tracks they all cost you money |
Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2013 at 6:16am
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Need some help here guys... Took the oil bath air filter apart to clean it yesterday. The oil cup at the bottom was FULL of oil, congealed oil, mouse carcasses, mouse nest, misc debris, etc. Even though the manual and parts book shows the canister as non-serviceable, I decided to disassemble. There are 3 layers (each approx 3" thick) of steel wool/brillo pad/??? The bottom one (closest to the oil bath) is completely congealed with oil. Next up isn't too bad. Top one was good. The middle one came apart while pulling it out, leaving me with a million feet of steel wool! I'm thinking of finding a paper filter canister to use in its place. Has anyone changed over to a paper filter on these? What canister and filter number? The space to fit is approx 10" diameter - might get to 11" if I relocate the blade hyd lines. Max length approx 24". Inlet to the engine manifold is 3 3/4", but I can make an adapter to any size needed. First thing I thought of was our swather. MacDon swather has a 4-cyl 3.9L Cummins - small sibling to the common 5.9L. The housing is approx 9 1/2" x 18" so it might work. In and Out was 4 1/2", but has a 90ยบ elbow to 3 1/2" or 3 3/4". Was after 5pm, so couldn't call for prices or check wrecking yards. Andrew |
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2013 at 6:36am
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You may want to check a few truck salvage yards, look for Peterbilt , White, Autocar or Kenworth units as they preferred large round dry element air cleaners usually mounted vertically. If you just want a air cleaner period look to Donaldson Filters for their specs charts and they may have a interchange unit Air Cleaner assembly. You may be better off to find another 11B and buy the filter assembly off of it. Chartrand Tractor Redbud IL ships parts, as does Zimmerman Tractor Versailles MO and General Gear Boise Idaho would be best choices for a OE Oil bath. On this forum, on your side of the border; Gemdozer, gemdozer@hotmail.com Hector has quite a collection of old Allis. |
Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2013 at 10:39am
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I thought of checking out trucks. Problem is the size 10-11" max diameter, 24" long. Unless I was going to mount it above the hood....mini D8K look?? Andrew |
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2013 at 11:43am
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Some of the older Petes used smaller diameter filer housings, may be too long though and the inlet will be 6-8" diameter. I would definitely give hector a try then general gear as they will be closest to you. |
Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2013 at 9:57pm
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Time for an update! Well, the ol' girl is back together finally. Drained all fluids out. Replaced the filters and re-filled everything. Greased as per the manual. (Had to make an adapter to grease the rollers.) Finally got the air filter in on Friday. The local shop had it ordered for me, but after a month and not hearing anything, I phoned them and they couldn't find where it had been ordered. Took another 2 weeks to come in! Ended up going with a RC-5171 from K&N. It's got a 4" inlet and the intake manifold is 3 3/4", so spent today with some 4" exhaust elbows fabbing up a way to get the 4" above the hood. Used on of the old 3 3/4" rubber hose connectors that was on the machine - a soak in hot water and I was able to stretch it over the 4" pipe. The 4" comes up through the original air filter hole in the hood, then I put the K&N on it. Still need to make a bit of a protective cover around the filter, but she was running this afternoon! Also adjusted the steering clutches, engine clutch, steering brakes. Everything runs much better. Before, it would barely steer Left and only somewhat to the Right. Now, it will almost spin me off the seat! Still washing out the rad. I filled with water today, ran the engine for a bit and drained it again. Going to fill with water and Rad Flush in the morning and head over to the neighbour's. He's been diggin in water lines at his place so I can work the engine for a bit while filling in the trench. The original plan for the machine is pushing bush, but this will give me a chance to get used to running it before there are trees falling around me! Andrew |
Posted By: Ian Beale
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2013 at 5:12am
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Andrew,
Does that dry filter have safety elements inside it? If you're going to be in dusty conditions that seems to be the go.
The AC 45 grader we got has been fitted with a Donaldson Duoclone (? spelling) with no safetys. I'm contemplating getting a second hand FA 10 filter unit which would simplify our spares as we have that dozer.
We encounter a particularly fine dust here. A serviceman tells of a Cat rep getting samples with the comment "We can't grind it this fine".
|
Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2013 at 5:50am
No safety element. This K&N filter clamps onto the end of the 4" pipe, so not even sure how a guy would install a second one. The filter: http://www.knfilters.ca/search/product.aspx?Prod=RC-5171" rel="nofollow - http://www.knfilters.ca/search/product.aspx?Prod=RC-5171 They also have a couple of options for covers: http://www.knfilters.ca/search/product.aspx?prod=25-5166" rel="nofollow - http://www.knfilters.ca/search/product.aspx?prod=25-5166 http://www.knfilters.ca/search/product.aspx?prod=RC-5166DK" rel="nofollow - http://www.knfilters.ca/search/product.aspx?prod=RC-5166DK Haven't decided on if it needs a cover yet. Am planning to make a cylinder out of expanded metal to place around the filter for a bit of protection. Then add a cone on top of that to shed water. For those unfamiliar with this type of filter, here's a pic of some from different angles:  The 4" pipe goes into that hole in the center, then tighten the clamp. Andrew |
Ian Beale wrote:Posted By: Ian Beale
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2013 at 4:52pm
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Andrew,
The FA 10 filter (and other dozer ones I think) has a second set of elements inside between the main element and the pipe to the engine. So, in case of a pinhole in the main one, you have a back-up set. Which, being smaller, chokes up faster and triggers the filter warning.
I've heard of a D9 just overhauled that was ruined quick time by taking out the secondaries "because they kept choking up".
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Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2013 at 5:43pm
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Yes, I know what secondary filters are. I think pretty much all of our farm equipment has them. Our rules for them are: Never take out the inner filter to clean it! If it's plugged, it needs changing - Replace both filters with new ones! Well, pushing dirt for the neighbour went OK, I guess. It was damp clay, so I couldn't get very much into the blade before it would spin out. Ended up moving around a bunch so that stuff could dry out a bit, then going back for another pass. At 3:30 we shut down for some lemonade and dessert and when I went to fire it back up, the starter solenoid wouldn't release. By the time I realized what was going on, I ended up burning off a battery cable before I could get the clamp off the post. Heading back in the morning to repair... Andrew |
Posted By: Mactractor
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2013 at 6:24pm
| Those type of filters are only for automotive, marine, or industrial application, and will not be effective in the high dust earthmoving and agricultral environments. End result, a dusted, wrecked engine. |
Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2013 at 7:32pm
I didn't know that! Good to know. I wonder if the foam cover would be sufficient? For some reason, I'm thinking not... Will have to rethink the filter I guess. Andrew |
Posted By: creeperfreak
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2013 at 7:38pm
Invest in panty-hose, two precleaners to a pair!
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Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2013 at 8:35pm
I've heard stories that panty-hose will keep something else out of somewhere else....maybe they'd work on keeping dirt out of filters as well?????  Andrew |
Posted By: Lazyts
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2013 at 11:05pm
| I'd just go to an ag wrecking yard and find something that would fit on- pretty well every tractor and combine has had a dry element system with safety filter since the early 70's- you're bound to find something it will fit. I know one guy was telling me he mounted the air cleaner from an old combine on his HD11. |
Posted By: Ian Beale
Date Posted: 23 Aug 2013 at 4:07am
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Andrew,
The serviceman I mentioned above ran a large machinery workshop.
He went so far as installing a stud in the pipe after the air cleaner with a dob of grease on it which could be checked for signs of dust.
|
Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2013 at 7:28am
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Lazyts: Trevor, sent you an email. re: HD11 Andrew |
Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2013 at 1:23pm
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So once I got the dozer back from pushing at my neighbour's, I saw that it had developed a water leak in the vicinity of the water pump. I grabbed the pulley and found way too much movement in the shaft. Rebuild time! In the process of removing the belts, I found that the fan hub had about 1/8" forward/backward motion, so I pulled the hub out, disassembled and cleaned everything. Turns out the bearings are fine, just needed the castle nut on the end tightened and since I was in there anyway, I made some new gaskets, etc. Also took apart the fan belt tightener, cleaned out the old grease and re-assembled. Now on to that darn water pump. It corresponds to the "Fourth Type" of water pump listed in the parts book. I got the four 5/16"NF bolts out that hold the pulley to the hub, but could not get the pulley to come off of the hub. I tried prying, tapping with a hammer, etc. Nothing worked. Finally ended up hanging upside down between the engine and rad while I slowly turned out the six 3/8"NC bolts that were holding the pump to the timing gear housing. The bottom two are not easy to get when the pulley is still on there!! I figured that once they came up against the pulley, they would either jack the pulley off of the hub, or jack the entire assembly out of the timing gear housing. Either way should work....hopefully. Well, the pulley came off of the hub. I still had to get the pump out of the timing gear housing and after tapping sideways back and forth, I was finally able to get a small razor-thin chisel edge in between and eventually the pump came out. Taking the pump apart on the bench revealed that I am in for a fair bit of searching at this point. Both bearings are toast. By toast, I mean that all of the balls are rattling around inside the housing. Seals are go0ne as well, obviously. I have no idea how this wasn't leaking before??? Well, off to the WWW to see if I can find cross-references for these parts. Anyone know off the top of their head? 4044210 BEARING, ball, front 4044212 BEARING, ball, rear 4507084 FLINGER, water 4507091 SEAL ASSEMBLY Andrew |
Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2013 at 1:33pm
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OK, first up is "4044210 BEARING, ball, front". The bearing that came out has the following info: "New Departure" "Z3304" ID measured to 0.790" which is a hair over 20mm. Uh oh..... OD measured to 2.049" which is a hair over 52mm. More uh oh.... Thickness measured to 0.590" which is 15mm. Hmmm.... This is looking more and more like a metric bearing. What are the chances of this on a 55 year old machine?? Andrew On Edit: OK, looks like a 6304 bearing. I'm going to guess that the original bearings were open-frame since the ones in the fan hub and idler were open-frame. Also, the pump uses a cork sealing washer instead of an o-ring or seal. |
Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2013 at 1:43pm
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Next is "4044212 BEARING, ball, rear". The bearing that came out has the following info: "N D" "_204" The first digit looks to have a loop at the bottom, so it could be 3, 5, 6 or 8. ID measured to 0.790" which is a hair over 20mm. OD measured to 1.853" which is a hair over 47mm. Thickness measured to 0.550" which is 14mm. Again, looks like it just might be a metric bearing. Andrew On Edit: Looks like a 6204 bearing. Also, open frame. Or should this one have a seal on the impeller side?? Just in case the water pump seal goes, it would (help) keep water out of the bearing. Although, I guess the grease should be doing that! |
Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2013 at 1:53pm
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Finally, the seal: "4507084 FLINGER, water" and "4507091 SEAL ASSEMBLY" No markings of any kind on either piece, so I'll have to go off of measurements. I found a seal that seems to match the dimensions. It's from http://www.nbseal.com" rel="nofollow - www.nbseal.com . It's their # TPSB3B-16. Andrew |
Posted By: Lazyts
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2013 at 3:39pm
| Go to www.minnpar.com- type in your part number preceded by a 7- Fiat Allis part numbers were changed to an 8 digit number starting with 7, so you need to add a 7 or 70 to old part numbers to "update" them. |
Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2013 at 3:54pm
Thanks Trevor. Now that I see that, I seem to remember reading that in the past... Andrew |
Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2013 at 4:31pm
Looks like minnpar has the bearings, but not the seal. Website says to call. Guess I'll have to do that tomorrow. The bearings are crossing to 6304 and 6204 open-cage bearings, so I should be able to source them locally. Andrew |
Posted By: Steve allis dozer
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2013 at 5:37pm
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Andrew , if you are loading the machine onto a trailer up ramps at the back it's better to drive up rather than reverse up them also be sure to have the truck on level ground if possible,(if your not happy with how the trailer is sitting get the truck driver to move it rather than drive on a trailer that's not level) its good to have someone looking from a safe distance in front of the trailer to guide you on making sure both tracks are even as the machine goes up the ramps, if you find the machine is not going up the ramps straight its better to slowly reverse off and have another go rather than try and turn as you go up as to avoid touching the steering levers as you go up the ramps and over the balance point. make sure no one is standing to the side of the trailer when your loading ,If its wet and muddy I will wait until it s dry to load a machine as they will slide off very easily and them old machines don't have ROPS canopy's. hope this helps regards steve |
Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2013 at 1:05pm
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Well, I was able to find the bearings locally and they should be here this afternoon. The water pump seal is proving more troublesome. Minnpar doesn't have any, but their supplier does. However, with a less-than-$50-order surcharge, shipping, etc the seal has gone from $10 on the web site, to almost $30. And that's still USD. Convert to Canadian, add in GST, duty, etc.... I'm still checking with a couple of local place, but no one has returned my inquiries after 2 hours, so it doesn't look good.... Andrew |
Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2013 at 8:31pm
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Well, after checking with 4 other places it looks like I'll have to order it from MinnPar. Any other good-to-have-on-hand items? I'd rather spend the extra $40 on something I might need than $4 on a small-order surcharge! I tried the number for the impeller, but it comes up as a no-go on MinnPar's website. I'll have to check with them. The ceramic disc is not attached to the impeller. Parts book shows it as one unit, but are they supposed to be attached? Or seperate? Could this be reattached with something ???? Andrew |
Posted By: Ian Beale
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2013 at 4:51am
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Andrew,
AC 45 grader service manual says
"Ceramic insert - bonded to impeller (not serviced separately)"
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Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2013 at 6:56am
OK. Does the AC45 have the same engine? The parts book for the HD11 says "IMPELLER ASSEMBLY (includes ceramic insert)" so I wasn't 100% sure if it was 1 piece or 2. I'm going to be phoning MinnPar today to see if they have, or can get the impeller, but it shows not available on their website. That's why I'm wondering about re-bonding it to the impeller. Anyone have any ideas? Andrew |
Posted By: Ian Beale
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2013 at 3:53pm
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Andrew,
The AC 45's all have the 516 engine. Early ones are ADS 516 (Lanova head with horizontal injectors) and later ones 10000 and 11000 series. So I'd punt the same pump.
I got a seal for ours from Minnpar a while ago as a spare.
I'd also punt that you'd be OK with a used impeller so long as the creamic was OK - didn't look too fragile to me.
|
Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2013 at 5:26pm
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Just a quick note on today's progress. After fighting with getting the water pump out of this machine (4-5 hours), I didn't even bother to go to the HD11 parts machine I got as part of the deal. I had figured that a few bucks for some bearings and seals was worth the hassle and then I'd know where I was at. Well, this morning I went over and had a look. As luck would have it, removing the water pump was a breeze on this machine. Being the ag version (HD11S), it didn't have the large hard nose with the cylinder brackets which meant easy side access. The pulley came off very easy, unlike the one on the running machine. Having learned a couple of tricks on getting the first one out of the timing gear housing, the parts machine gave up its' water pump quite easily. Once I got it out, the seal is in good-enough-to-use condition and the impeller/ceramic looks good too. Bearings were pretty loose though, so I took it all apart and had 2 water pumps in pieces. I cleaned out all the old, dry grease and reassembled with the new bearings I picked up yesterday and the old seal and impeller. I'm hoping that it will last for a bit while I get my hands on a pair of bearings and a seal to rebuild the remaining pieces - if I have a ready-to-go spare on the shelf, this one should last an eternity! I didn't even try to remove the old seal - just used the water pump housing from the parts machine! Andrew |
Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2013 at 6:58pm
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Anyone have thoughts on ordering a new impeller? Or is there a way to bond the ceramic disc back on to the impeller and use the one I've got? I've read a bit on-line about using RTV silicone to bond the two together. Wasn't for this specific engine, but should work... Andrew |
Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 28 Aug 2013 at 9:11pm
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dad and i just went through this on one the 8550's. the seal was leaking because it came loose from the back of the impeller. we ordered a new seal and come to find out, the rest of the seal is bonded to the back of the impeller and you had to buy it also. luckily it was still available so we didnt have to try any bonding. we wondered if an epoxy of some kind would work better than silicone? good luck be careful not to touch the ceramic faces with anything even your fingers
------------- Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20 Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 29 Aug 2013 at 4:39pm
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Well, after rebuilding the water pump from the parts dozer with new bearings, it appears to be working. Tested first with water and no leaks. Drained overnight and refilled today with coolant. All looks well! On the second pump front, the RTV silicone appears to be working to keep the silicon disk and impeller together. I'll order some bearings locally. The other set I got was cheaper delivered to my door than MinnPar's price on the website, so I'll do that again. That will give me a spare water pump "just in case"! I've got an email in to MinnPar about the seal. Also getting prices for the 3 v-belts. Was able to find the generator/water pump belt available locally, but can't seem to match the length of the fan belts. Might end up ordering a set along with the water pump seal... Andrew |
Posted By: Steve allis dozer
Date Posted: 29 Aug 2013 at 5:57pm
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its hard to find parts for a forty to fifty year old machine also with the company that made them gone for around thirty years, track rollers were up to $600 compared to cat rollers for $300 over here and because no one would buy them for that price they stopped making them ,sooner or later minnpar will stop making parts for the same reason , you cant buy some final drive seals anymore and transmission parts I think you can still buy the water pump complete if your rebuilt one fails but I think you mite have to sit down when you get the price ! |
Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2013 at 6:49am
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Just a bit of an update. Finally got finished with harvest and fall field work - fertilizer, etc. I borrowed my neighbour's lowbed and moved the dozer to some land we purchased last spring with a bit of bush on it. Ground is froze here now, so it skims off the willows and small stuff fairly easily - cuts them off at ground level. I started on a smaller bunch of poplars to get used to the machine and am pushing them over 1 or 2 at a time, then piling. The biggest problem so far is that the original owner did some clearing in the early 1980's. He had everything pushed over, looks like he windrowed it and burned it.....but that's it! He never cleaned up the left over windrows. So now 30-50 feet in from the edge of each slough is a mound 2 feet high and 5 feet wide that is mostly frozen! I'm piling the trees on top of this mound. Hopefully next fall we can burn the windrows and piles and then re-pile it all to get the dirt out - gotta make a root/rock rake for this machine! With the poplars being so close together, I've had to push on them with the corner couple feet of the blade in order to only get 1 or 2 at a time. (Where possible I push in the middle of the blade.) Is this going to be trouble over time? (The blade is 12.5 feet.) Andrew |
Posted By: Lazyts
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2013 at 10:28pm
| Do what you gotta do- probably won't be doing anything that hasn't been done before with the old dozer. |
Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2013 at 6:44am
Yeah, that's true!! Hoping to get down your way to pick up those pads Trevor. We've got friends in Somerset, so am thinking on heading that way and drop the wife and kids off to visit on my way there. Not sure when though.... Andrew |