Pictures of WC pulling hitch..Need help
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Forum Name: Pulling Forum
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=69537
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Topic: Pictures of WC pulling hitch..Need help
Posted By: WCCLASON
Subject: Pictures of WC pulling hitch..Need help
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2013 at 3:23pm
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Ok I have been building a puller as a lot of you know over this winter. It has come along way but I am kind of stumped on what I want to do for a hitch.....Would like to hear peoples input and most of all pictures if they would like to share. I know the basics....Are rules are 18'' from the ground and we must be 18''behind center of axle. I know the u want to build it as tight to those spec's as possible, But also need it to be adjustable. So any help....Input ....Is very helpful. Thanks in advance! |
Replies:
Posted By: cotncrzy
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2013 at 8:40pm
  Try and pull from directly underneath the rear axel. I will change mine soon, I have mine foreword some to help hold the front end down. If I can trim some more weight I will shift it back more to pull down more on the rear wheels, right now I cant because of the weight factor. I don't mean back over 18", I mean where you bolt it, the "fulcrum". I have saw hitches similar to these and they work well. ------------- C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM! |
Posted By: WCCLASON
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2013 at 9:42pm
| Thanks bud....I have seen these pictures before so that gives me a better idea. Any one else have a design....Somthing i havent seen before.....Not sure which way i want to go yet....But that is a good design though. |
Posted By: Larry(OH)
Date Posted: 01 May 2013 at 5:47am
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I'll get some pics of mine this weekend. Similar, but different ------------- '40 WC puller,'50 WD puller,'50 M puller '65 770 Ollie *ALLIS EXPRESS contact* I can explain it to you, BUT I cannot understand it for you!! |
Posted By: WCCLASON
Date Posted: 03 May 2013 at 12:24pm
| guess I am going to go back to the drawing board and build something different. I'll have to come up with something new than what I've seen but ill go off what I've seen. unless anyone else has pictures. |
Posted By: firephight
Date Posted: 03 May 2013 at 1:03pm
| Google antique tractor pulling hitch |
Posted By: firephight
Date Posted: 03 May 2013 at 1:14pm
 |
Posted By: firephight
Date Posted: 03 May 2013 at 1:21pm
      these i found on the internet |
Posted By: WCCLASON
Date Posted: 03 May 2013 at 1:29pm
| Yea I know...lol I have seen them all. A lot of those are WD's and I am looking for just WC's to get some ideas. I think I am going to get a few good pictures I have found and print them off and then brain storm to and see if I can figure out a good way to build one how I want it for my needs. They all look like really good hitches too...! |
Posted By: Larry(OH)
Date Posted: 04 May 2013 at 6:09am
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here are a couple of mine...hard to see, but you get the idea
------------- '40 WC puller,'50 WD puller,'50 M puller '65 770 Ollie *ALLIS EXPRESS contact* I can explain it to you, BUT I cannot understand it for you!! |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 04 May 2013 at 7:47am
The fulcrum is the center of the wheel axle. You can bolt the hitch on to the front pedestal and it won't change how it pulls as long as the hitch point is 18 inches above ground and 18 behind the wheel axle. Moving the hitch mount forward, only puts more stress on the mount.  Kinda reminds me of a neighbor that brought his loader tractor to the welding shop. He had the welder add gussets from the front of the loader subframe to the rear axle so the "Back wheels could take more of the weight" All that did was add the weight of the gussets to the front wheels. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
cotncrzy wrote:Posted By: cotncrzy
Date Posted: 04 May 2013 at 8:01am
------------- C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM! |
Posted By: cotncrzy
Date Posted: 04 May 2013 at 8:03am
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I disagree, Charlie. I still say the more towards the rear the better the rear tire load. ------------- C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM! |
Posted By: WCCLASON
Date Posted: 04 May 2013 at 9:59am
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is it slotted on the back part of the hitch for it to move up and down for adjustability ? Just wonder how it moves the up and down. good looking set up though....And IMHO different hitches and different track conditions is what plays a big roll. I pull on black top and clay/dirt....and i have been to Iowa and tracks down there pull a little different than around here. Good pictures though guys! |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 05 May 2013 at 11:36am
 So you believe that if D, L, and H are all the same, you can put more down force on the back wheels F,by moving your drawbar mount from point B to point A. Sorry, it don't work that way. The geometry hasn't changed, so if D is downforce on the drawbar then F is going to be the same no matter where you attach it, A, B or C. what you will do is put more force on the attaching point if it is at C and probably bend your drawbar down, which WILL change the equation I do believe. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 05 May 2013 at 12:33pm
| I don't care how you design and build a drawbar to try and gain advantage over other competitors. The fact is, if your hitch point is 20 inches high and length is 18 inches rearward from the center of the rear wheel and the drawbar is bolted solid so it cannot move or flex, there is no "magic" way to make it perform any better than any other drawbar. All those who think their drawbar pulls better because of the way they designed it must have it designed so it pulls upward under load, which according to good rules is illegal. Drawbar "bolted solid" means just that ......it cannot move whatsoever and any time. |
Posted By: cotncrzy
Date Posted: 05 May 2013 at 3:05pm
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Ok, Charlie I may have to eat crow on this one. I see where you are coming from. I moved ours to the front holes to try and hold the front down without using weight, seemed to help, guess it was my imagination trying to accommodate for the extra work. This is why I love this forum, experience way overcomes rookie ideas. I have sat out here for several hours and looked this over, I now agree with you and the good DR. ------------- C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM! |
Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 05 May 2013 at 4:05pm
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the one on my wd moves . never been dqued you just have to have it where it takes more force to move it than the little old man checking it can exert. lol its all part of knowing what part of the little details at a pull on each and every tractor to look for. rules are only as good as the tech. man enforcing them ------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra |
Posted By: patrickmull
Date Posted: 05 May 2013 at 5:38pm
riding on the sled pull after pull the one thing i know is to make it heavy so it won't flex under a load or you will lose drawbar height if you have a 20" drawbar it flexes 2" you have the same thing as a 18" drawbar you want to get your support close to the hole as possible mine is 1" in front of the hole  |
Posted By: patrickmull
Date Posted: 05 May 2013 at 5:50pm
| i have a war time rear end i would like to turn my final drive back and make the wheel base longer but against the rules |
Posted By: nborga87
Date Posted: 06 May 2013 at 8:32pm
| ha that one with the red dodge pickup in the background is mine. where did u find that pic. i actually changed it up some since then. i incorporated my wheelie bars into the new one. i also put a rear weight bracket on it, moved the seat to the center, and put 15.5 x 38's on it. |