Construction and other equipment - HD5 Rules of operation

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HD5 Rules of operation

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=66335
Printed Date: 06 Jun 2024 at 6:39pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com

Topic: HD5 Rules of operation

Posted By: heron
Subject: HD5 Rules of operation
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2013 at 4:59pm

Can someone give me the low down of what to do and not to do with my grandfathers 1955 HD5? I read somewhere else that Coke said to always engage clutch but keep the shifter in neutral while idling. My dad has run this machine since a young man..he is 75 now and never told me anything like this. Is there more I should know? Should I bother having the final drives fixed or will they just leak again? I'll be using the machine in the next couple of months(when the weather finally gets better here) pretty regularly and I want to be prepared. All fluids are changed, rollers done and general maintenance complete..including installing new seat. Any suggestions?

Replies:

Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2013 at 5:42pm

Keep the cutting edge of the blade on the down side!

Posted By: derekhopkins
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2013 at 6:16pm

I think Coke meant to keep the clutch engaged when not in use and when idling..this means that the gearbox main shaft is turning with the clutch and flywheel. Also the clutch springs are not left in the depressed state and you are not wearing out the bearing in the flywheel.

My rear seals have been leaking for years,,,not a lot ...mabye a couple of pints each year. I suggest that you make sure that the rear bearings are OK by jacking up the frame and check each rear drive wheel for movement. If all OK and leaks are not serious then can be left...up to you.

HD5s will go forever if used carefully, but not really a modern machine suitable for heavy contracting. Mine is a 1954 model and motor is orginall, never been touched except for new water pump and radiator. Has had a new set of tracks back in 1960s when it was used to pull ploughs and seeding machines and rollers have been rebuilt.

Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2013 at 6:17pm

Idle it when setting still , run it at full throttle when working. Use the steering clutches first to maneuver, and light brake pressure to assist, Stab brakes and not ride them.

Treat the master clutch easily as it is a dry single disc clutch.

Run machine in proper gear for the work your doing, controlling ground speed with the bite of blade to point of just about slipping track

In the clutch there is a brass bushing that keeps the over-center part of clutch centered and it rides on trany main shaft . If it sets running with clutch disengaged the brass bushing rides on stationary trany input shaft . The bushing has grease fittings but as they are inside clutch housing - many forget to grease them regularly

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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."

Posted By: heron
Date Posted: 06 Mar 2013 at 7:38am

On checking the rear bearings. Once the machine is jacked up do you place a long bar in the rear sprockets and rock to see if there is excessive play? I know for a fact my dad has not checked that for years as I don't remember him doing anything like that. I told him when I ran it the first time a couple of months ago it seemed like there was a lot of noise coming from the back of the machine but it simply sounds like gear noise but not having a lot of seat time on this machine I don't know if this is normal.

Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 06 Mar 2013 at 10:01am

As there is two bearings inboard of the sprocket and one at track frame you should have NO movement in anything there in back . As sprocket fits onto splines of tapered shaft of axle again movement should not be present. A large nut that is torqued to around 1000 ft lbs of torque holds sprocket to axle.

Leakage of rear seals might be one sign something is out of specification or could just be worn or split parts of seals.

Posted By: Herb(GA)
Date Posted: 06 Mar 2013 at 10:59am

I have never operated a crawler; hope to sometime. Have no desire to ever work on one. However, Coke's 1,000 ft lbs of torque caught my eye; that is 200 lbs on a 5' long wrench!

Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 06 Mar 2013 at 1:27pm

I used a RIDGID nut wrench (like a pipe wrench with flat jaws) and a 10' length of pipe, figured my weight and distance back from nut and then hung onto pipe at that point.

Only broke one jaw so far and only a slight bend in handle of wrench.

Posted By: heron
Date Posted: 06 Mar 2013 at 6:26pm

Are there any other signs of possible bearing issue other than leakage and movement? I don't think the bearings have ever been replaced on that machine so there is a good chance they are shot although when operating nothing seems off...machine rolls well if that means anything.

Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 06 Mar 2013 at 7:00pm

When releasing the steering levers Don't let them snap back. It will jerk teeth off the steering clutchs. Leon

Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 07 Mar 2013 at 10:16am

Only bearings I have had to replace in the last 40 years on mine have been - front ideler wheel bearings, transmission bearings ( rear trany output bearing -double row ball bearing) side bearings on the ring gear, pilot bearing changed to sealed unit for clutch shaft. One upper track idler roller, brass bushing in the over-center clutch sleeve and the ball bearing in clutch

Then did go through engine with new rod and mains, grind crank 10 under, replace generator with a 10si alternator , seal in hyd pump, and water pump.

Yes to the steering clutches in feathering them and not using them like a on and off switch . Main clutch is in or out but also used with care in applying .