426 main and head studs
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=62479
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Topic: 426 main and head studs
Posted By: Peterson
Subject: 426 main and head studs
Date Posted: 01 Jan 2013 at 7:44pm
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Does ARP make the studs and have them in stock or are they special order? Or does someone else make them? Any help would be great. Thanks ------------- 7095-685I at 255hp, 8070-225HP,8050-210Hp,8030 with 155HP,220 with 670T engine with A-pump, 7580, 185 with 140HP, 2-6080's,6070, S4 D17,wd45,CA,st34 agco, S1 D17 with 3500MK2 |
Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 01 Jan 2013 at 8:08pm
| Until you get over 1000 HP OEM main cap bolts and head bolts are fine. |
Posted By: Peterson
Date Posted: 01 Jan 2013 at 8:43pm
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Ok. I still atleast would like to do main studs. I like to over build my engines somewhat. If one was to have some made, what would you get them made out of? Like 4340 or? ------------- 7095-685I at 255hp, 8070-225HP,8050-210Hp,8030 with 155HP,220 with 670T engine with A-pump, 7580, 185 with 140HP, 2-6080's,6070, S4 D17,wd45,CA,st34 agco, S1 D17 with 3500MK2 |
Posted By: wi50
Date Posted: 01 Jan 2013 at 9:11pm
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If you want to overbuild your engine spend all the money you were going to spend on head and main studs, drive to Eau Claire and see Gary Baxter, Baxter Engines. o-ring the head and heat treat the connecting rods. Those things will give long before the hardware will. ------------- "see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet" |
Posted By: Peterson
Date Posted: 01 Jan 2013 at 9:14pm
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Rods I got already. And I was really thinkin about o-ringing the head too. But if I could get the mains done, then later I could do the head and head studs. ------------- 7095-685I at 255hp, 8070-225HP,8050-210Hp,8030 with 155HP,220 with 670T engine with A-pump, 7580, 185 with 140HP, 2-6080's,6070, S4 D17,wd45,CA,st34 agco, S1 D17 with 3500MK2 |
Posted By: wi50
Date Posted: 01 Jan 2013 at 9:30pm
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How much fuel and wind do you plan to push in this thing? The clutch will give long before any other problems, next will be the head gasket before the mains move. Might as well girdle the mains, studs will do verry, verry little to keep the caps from walking when you get to the point of pushing enough wind in it. What I'm getting at is that I'm runnung bolts in the girdle and mains on a 3000+ hp 7 main block application and the block will rip open above the main saddles before those bolts will give or the main caps will walk. The head bolts came from a John Deere engine. Though it's on alcohol. The neighbor is pushing in the real high 2000's hp and nothing more than a thin girdle and bolts hold the crank in his 4 turbo diesel SS. ------------- "see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet" |
Posted By: Peterson
Date Posted: 01 Jan 2013 at 9:34pm
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Well for starting out i've got a dm4631 thats at 320cc's and 4x18 injectors. And i have a billet wheel hx52 holset, which is 67/70/16. ------------- 7095-685I at 255hp, 8070-225HP,8050-210Hp,8030 with 155HP,220 with 670T engine with A-pump, 7580, 185 with 140HP, 2-6080's,6070, S4 D17,wd45,CA,st34 agco, S1 D17 with 3500MK2 |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 01 Jan 2013 at 9:45pm
------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
peterson wrote:Posted By: Todd Domann
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2013 at 12:59pm
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Peterson,
Call my Dad Elvin at 785-224-4560. We may have some main studs leftover from our 426 days.
Thanks, Todd
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