Maybe too much to ask
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=60641
Printed Date: 27 Sep 2024 at 4:02pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Maybe too much to ask
Posted By: DMiller
Subject: Maybe too much to ask
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2012 at 6:21am
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Hi guys, I have been finally working the old girl and she does do pretty well in dirt to light rock, the old three bar slick pads do slip but not any more than the trans does. I want to remove some trees, the old monster just doesn't have the bite nor the trans to do it, am I asking too much of the machine? Should I be looking to a direct drive or at least a heavier shuttle shift dozer for a tag team effort? Rolling off the track last Sunday was pretty rough on the old gal, she was trying to work but I pushed a little too hard.
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Replies:
Posted By: Dozer
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2012 at 7:36am
| I was able to do great things with my HD5G when I pit full grousers on it. Perhaps you could bolt angle iron to your semi grousers. |
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2012 at 9:17am
| I have been looking to add rebar weld ons as suggested by coke-in-mn but am a little skittish of the old trans. I don't have low reverse already, and it seems to want to slip with any load against it if the rails don't slip in low forward. |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2012 at 9:57am
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It's learning how much push and where , it will do a lot of work and move a lot of trees but the fact you might have to dig around tree and break up roots first . Leverage is the key. Look at a few of those pictures posted by the guys down under and see the A frame they have mounted on their machines for land clearing. They can push on trunk at a higher point while keeping a lot of track on the ground. I used my HD4 for land clearing but will say for straight push the HD5G did better. Using the HD5B dozer did not work well at all but my FD5 will work after i use blade corner to break up roots on 3 sides of tree. Might try making a ripper shank to attach to bucket to break up roots first and then do the pushing. ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2012 at 10:03am
 
------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2012 at 1:21pm
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That's where I have been with the 7G, working the sides of the stumps breaking up the feeder roots to get the trees unstable but it tends to want to hang up and slip on the root wads. I am learning and working at it. The last cedar had up to a foot deep of cut around it, still broke the stump off when I pushed on the trunk with bucket up.
That 11 sure looks like a work horse.
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Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2012 at 2:24pm
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I took out full trees with the HD5G up to couple feet in diameter but with a lot of grubbing . Trees about 1 ft or less across the trunk that were cut off at 4 fit high take some pushing from several sides . Found the backhoe first and then the HD5 worked good ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2012 at 9:33am
| Coke, you said at one time you added rebar to the shoes on your crawler, what size did you end up using, I have access to some old 1/2, 5/8 and some 3/4 stock, rusty but still pretty much full dimension. Did you use 7018 to attach it, I have access to end of shelf life rods thru work, they pitch them by the bucket full at times. |
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2012 at 9:36am
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I am still considering a little heavier direct drive unit, gent has a HD11 in Camdenton MO with a similar tree spear on it for $4800, I need to get down to take a look at it, is a full hydraulic unit. http://loz.craigslist.org/for/3392776242.html" rel="nofollow - http://loz.craigslist.org/for/3392776242.html That way I can use the 7G for cleanup.
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Posted By: TREVMAN
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2012 at 10:43am
| An old 11 like that is a nice beast for around the farm, it doesn't look too bad. Tracks look a little loose, but the man is honest in his advertisement and sounds like you could take it for a try, good luck, Trev. |
Posted By: michale34
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2012 at 11:13am
| my dad had an 11 like that the only difference i see his had the steering clutch leavers on the dash and he did a LOT of clearing with it . my dads brother bought 2 hd11b just like the one for sale in 1959 brand new and they were good machines one burned up in a woods fire and the other one went to the sale after it was pretty well worn out. |
Posted By: TREVMAN
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2012 at 5:50pm
| There is an 11 similar to the one you are contemplating in my neck of the woods here, asking price is $8500. Says engine rebuilt 1000 hours ago. Just to give you some perspective on the one your thinkin about, seems like a fair place to start on the negotiation, Trev. |
Posted By: Lazyts
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2012 at 9:40pm
| DMiller- I know of a couple of HD11 tractors close to your neck of the woods that could probably be picked up pretty reasonably. One is an old HD11B, probably late 50s, and the other is an HD11E, about 1963, with hydraulic tilt. Both need TLC, but both run. The guy has an old HD11B with no dozer as well, just has cable control unit, and another HD11E half torn down. PM me if you want more info. |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2012 at 11:32pm
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I used 5/8 - #5 bar- and used 7024 drag rod . I clamped the bar onto track using a vice grip clamp - 2 bars to each pad - then welded a short bead at each end on one side, then welded the full length of bar on one side, I did 3 pads in from and 3 pads in back. > I then rotated track forward 3 pads and did it again. Soon the pads came around and needed welding on the opposite side so just kept welding each one until the track was complete. 7018 would work also but the 7024 laid a flat bead and as it was a v notch almost i was filling I used a larger rod and higher heat and filled the area with one pass. ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2012 at 5:08am
| Thanks Coke, I will look into the 7024 rod, sounds a better plan. We used those in barge hulls when replacing the bottom sheets welding between the inner bottom and true bottom while scooting along on a creeper. |
Posted By: HD6 Merv
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2012 at 1:35am
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Track shops have proper shaped and bevelled relug grouser bar in different size hights. Would ask about these first. I got some of this bar when i relugged my worn D4 grousers, worked great and really added some performance to it. cant remember the cost, but it wasnt much, came in 10ft lenghts. That dzr is a early HD11B, late 50s vintage by the long steering levers, Buda engine, unless updated. Were a good machine and it looks tidy and price seems fair. ------------- tits tyres and tracks they all cost you money |
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2012 at 4:21am
| Thanks Merv, should be looking to test it in two weeks if it doesn't sell from under me. I was going the rebar route as I have access to a ton of it in scrap metal my Brother In Law collected some years ago, has all sort odd length standing in the V-notch of a tree at his house so it is the right price! |