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ignition

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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=58918
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Topic: ignition
Posted By: mufflerboltz
Subject: ignition
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2012 at 5:45pm
is there a good aftermarket ignition system that can be ran on a 226 engine? like a MSD set up, i would like to try it and if anyone has done this can you help me out on what i should all run? 

Thanks



Replies:
Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2012 at 6:57pm
Check the class rules, some places do not allow electronic setups

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Charlie

'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2012 at 7:04pm
If you have new spark plugs that are gapped properly and fresh points ( or electronic pointless set-up) you'll see no HP improvement in an AC Power Crater engine with any other ignition system at under 3,000 rpm. It's hard to beat a spark plug located in the center of the combustion chamber.


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2012 at 5:08pm

With the capacitive discharge ignitions like msd .I have started engines just by turning on the ignition and never turning the engine over with the starter. ofcoarse it was oxygenated fuel and the cylinder was aligned to fire on compression . Sometimes all the stars align like that.  So i tend to think they have some hotter better fire. jmho



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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: Mrgoodwrench
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2012 at 5:24pm
the advantage in a msd ign in the "Multi Spark Discharge" meaning it fires a little before through a little after the typical one shot fireing point. that mostly comes into plat at higher rpm but the do fire hot with a hot coil and create a more complete burn through all rpm ranges. but i doubt that youd notice much difference over a properly working factory system with a good coil unless you are dealing with high compression

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There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!!


Posted By: wi50
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2012 at 5:57pm
If you really want to spend time and money on your engine put a ground cam in it and degree it in correctly. If you just want to spend time with your engine degree your stock cam in correctly to about 104* ATDC intake centerline.

You'll notice the advantage from the above. You won't notice any advantage weather you have a good set of points or an electronic with an MSD. Nothing beats a good mag though.

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"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"


Posted By: mufflerboltz
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2012 at 6:02pm
all good point of views, those are the answers i was looking for! I have noticed hot spark with a hotter coil but with the hotter coil i have burned up point sets!


Posted By: Mrgoodwrench
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2012 at 6:39pm
leave the coil loose the points....pertronics it the only way to go with a hot coil


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There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!!


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2012 at 8:33pm
Originally posted by Mrgoodwrench Mrgoodwrench wrote:



leave the coil loose the points....pertronics it the only way to go with a hot coil
if your gonna do that spend the money on a hei out of a chevette or pontiac 1000. A stock cam degreed to 104 is better than a stock cam thats not.it comes from the compression increase you get . Before degree wheels old timers would advance the cam untill they reached the highest cylinder presssure reading on a compression tester. Compression is the ace in the hole. Back to ignition one can create issues trying to increase the spark joules at the plug with the stock delco allis distributor cap.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: Rod B
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2012 at 10:20am

I know of some running nothing more than a petronix electronic ignition and a good coil running RPM's over 5000 with no problems.   

Take WI's advice and change the cam timeing or get a ground cam.  The most important thing for engine performance is the closing point of the intake valve.  By altering the cam timeing of  your stock cam you are changeing the point of closure to allow maximum cylinder filling.  Low RPM engines need to be closed sooner than higher RPM engines.  As the intake valve starts to close the pressure begins to rise in the intake port, the mass of air and fuel rushing into the cylinder slows down and pressure rises.  When the piston comes around BDC or bottom dead center and starts to rise on compression, pressure begins to build in the cylinder. Pressure in the intake must rise high enough to overcome the cylinder pressure in order to continue to fill the cylinder.  When you change your cam timeing the position of the piston to intake valve cycle change helping to ram more air/fuel into the cylinder. 
 
Cranking compression pressure has little to do with how the engine will respond to these modifications when running.  It will indicate changes but the highest compression will come after the cam is to far retarded.  Read some old threads on cam timeing and have a good laugh at the armchair expert. 


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for the money there is nothing better than provoking idiots and posers


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2012 at 8:35pm
Rod your wrong as usual advancing the cam raises cylinder pressure not retarding it as you stated. When you advance the cam you close the intake valve sooner. You cant build compression untill valves are closed. Your so good for a laugh. When your in your chair look up effective stroke and how closing the intake valve sooner makez for a longer effective stroke.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: Rod B
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2012 at 9:00pm
You're ignorance is forgiven, when you get some experience you will understand what I posted. As in Larry's sig line "I can explain it to you but I can't understand it for you". So true here.


We all know that advanceing the cam raises cylinder pressure. But peak pressure will come when the cam is to far retarded. Try it sometime and see where peak pressure is and how it runs at that point.   Sounds like a good homework assignment for pank. He still hasn't done the last ones I gave him.

I'm sorry, I forgot. Pank has no clue how to degree a cam, or where to set it at or how it works. Past threads have shown that. I wouldn't take any camshaft advece from pank, he still thinks that no matter where you place an 8 degree chevy bushing the cam timeing will change 8 degrees no matter what. No consideration to basic geometry. Pank realized his invalid attempts at understanding camshafts upon unable to move the pulling sled so he bought one from someone who had it figured out.

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for the money there is nothing better than provoking idiots and posers


Posted By: wi50
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2012 at 9:21pm
Originally posted by Rod B Rod B wrote:

<FONT style=": #000000">.   



Low RPM engines need to be closed sooner than higher RPM engines
 

IV]


......sooner is the same thing as advanced.... just sayin. Sooner, earlier and advanced share a common meaning in the english language.

But on the ignition subject at hand, I built a GM HEI setup probably 15 years ago for my pulling tractor. It's fine but a friend of mine from across the river in MN turns his engine pretty hard and I'm sure it's got a Petronix a good coil and nothing more. A few friends run 6 cyl's with the same setup that run pretty fast. You've got to rember that with a 4 cyl there's a lot of room between terminals on the cap and a lot of dwell time for the coil.

I have seen a difference in caps, rotors and points from cheap alumnium terminals to good brass terminals. We had a tractor on the dyno and for kicks changed things around and seen some gain when switched to Napa Echlin which had brass terminals but the last one I got there had junk alumnium. I'll have to try and find a few good ones and put away for future tuneups.

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"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2012 at 7:22am
rod wrote the highest  compresion reading will come after cams to far retarded . and that is wrong read again .  the highest compression reading will come when cam is advanced to correct degree If you add another degree or two compression will start to fall off but the cam is still being moved in the advanced direction . Retarding a cam always reduces cylinder pressure . ford did it alot on detonation prone engines.  here is rods statement cut and pasted so you can see his error."It will indicate changes but the highest compression will come after the cam is to far retarded"   . engines that run under 6000 rpms and need to lug see benefits from advancing and checking for the highest cylinder pressure reading at starter cranking speeds . it really increases the torque and power due to the effects on "effective stroke".

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: Rod B
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2012 at 7:39am
Why don't you take some time and play with the allis and tell us at what point peak pressure happens. You'll find that the cam will be to far retarded at 107 degrees. Trust me, you'll want it more advanced. It's because of the inline 4 cyl design with siamesed intake port. 3 valves in the paired cylinders have activity to close to each other. This isn't about a ford or 6000 rpm.   When the engine is running up to speed things happen that don't show at cranking speed.



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for the money there is nothing better than provoking idiots and posers


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2012 at 8:09am
Originally posted by Rod B Rod B wrote:

Why don't you take some time and play with the allis and tell us at what point peak pressure happens. You'll find that the cam will be to far retarded at 107 degrees. Trust me, you'll want it more advanced. It's because of the inline 4 cyl design with siamesed intake port. 3 valves in the paired cylinders have activity to close to each other. This isn't about a ford or 6000 rpm.   When the engine is running up to speed things happen that don't show at cranking speed.

The more you advance a cam the higher the cylinder pressure will go unrtill it falls off  from being  advanced to far . Now depending on how much duration the cam has and how small the engine is in cubic inches will depend on at what degree the cam will be advanced to when  the compression reading will be the highest.   There is no such thing as to big a cam due to duration. There is such a thing as to small cubic inches and to low of static compresion ratio  for big duration camshaft and when that happens you will see helpful gains in advancing a camshaft to large amounts of degree change to the advanced postition as long as you are looking for the highest cylinder pressure reading. A cam thats correct shouldnt need advanced at all unless your attempting to make a flatter torque to power curve. If you use the highest cylinder pressure method and you find the highest cylinder pressure at cranking speed is with the cam 15 degrees advanced then you know you have the wrong cam in your engine build.  Using the longest effective stroke will show up at cranking speeds and will stil be a benefit when the engine is at running speeds below 6000 rpms. if your wanting to run 7000 rpms or higher do not use this method for your engine will like the cam straight up for the most part some may even like it retarded a few degrees.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2012 at 8:26am
as for the siameezed or paired valves this is where ron iskyderians splatter pattern cam makes its biggest impact in performance.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: Rod B
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2012 at 8:29am
Go read my original post in which I say "by altering the timeing of your stock cam".

Sure a custom ground has different charistics. That's not up for debate. You can stop your teenage girl cat and mouse games by simply learning to read.


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for the money there is nothing better than provoking idiots and posers


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2012 at 8:37am
I do read and simply posted your inaccuracy . quote rod ,"It will indicate changes but the highest compression will come after the cam is to far retarded"   admitt this statement is wrong and my engine intellegence caught your mistake and move on.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: Rod B
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2012 at 8:58am
Originally posted by mlpankey mlpankey wrote:

I do read and simply posted your inaccuracy . quote rod ,"It will indicate changes but the highest compression will come after the cam is to far retarded"   admitt this statement is wrong and my engine intellegence caught your mistake and move on.



I posted where peak pressure is and 107 is retarded further than 104. You have no intellegance if you can't figure that out.



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for the money there is nothing better than provoking idiots and posers


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2012 at 10:19am
smaller the number the more advanced . 107 is not retarded its advanced to 107. peak pressure may be at 107 ,104 ,102. or 92 degrees depending on the size of motor and the duration of the cam you simply just dont pull a number from the magicians hat you research by doing it on each and every build. the cam is not retarded untill the degree number increases larger than it is at straight up.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: Rod B
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2012 at 11:29am
We are not dealing with custom cam. Peak pressure is at 107 which is retarded compared to 104. So you can play around all you want but this still means the same thing as in my original post.

Are your failed attempts at building a competitive pulling engine a result of your fake engine intelligence or yout real engine ignorance?

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for the money there is nothing better than provoking idiots and posers


Posted By: mufflerboltz
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2012 at 12:43pm
Wow gentlemen, all i asked for is ignition advise! Not a battle about cams and compression! (like i have seen in alot of other post) Im not trying to build a high dollar puller, just a good 60-70 horse machine!


Posted By: Gary in da UP
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2012 at 12:44pm
   Getting back on track with your ignition question.   I have been very satisfied with pertronix systems and also use their stealthy stock looking black coil.  There are two more things to do that are cheap upgrades for your ignition. First is to index your plugs to each cylinder. , when that is done trim the outer electrode on your plugs to  a sharp square  that just ends  at the outer edge of the center electrode, This opens up the spark to face the piston top, and you can open the gap then to as much as 45 thou.  This is  a worthwhile mod......   for not a lot of money.


Posted By: Mrgoodwrench
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2012 at 4:49pm
not taking sides but 107 degrees btdc is more advanced than 104 degrees btdc

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There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!!


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2012 at 7:52pm
On the ignition when you find the brown residue inside the black distributor cap then you will need to drill holes between the post to let the plasma ions out. If your worried about moisture then you will need to go to the hei cap with wider posts.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: Rod B
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2012 at 6:41am
Originally posted by Mrgoodwrench Mrgoodwrench wrote:



not taking sides but 107 degrees btdc is more advanced than 104 degrees btdc


That is correct, but when dealing with intake centerline timeing is measured ATDC, in which lesser numbers are advanced.

You boys don't need to go drilling every distributer cap you have full of holes. They worked fine for the last 60 years with little regular maintenance and will work for many more.

Index the plugs so the ground strap isn't hindering spark exposure in the plug pocket of the head, gap your plugs and if available I chose NGK. Had the best luck with them, not that it makes any difference. The biggest performance upgrade some people can do is to leave things alone and not take advice from bad sources.

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for the money there is nothing better than provoking idiots and posers


Posted By: BennyLumpkin
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2012 at 8:24am
I love how a simple question becomes a pissing contest lol

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Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254
1945 WF
1945 WC135755
1951 WD68085
1953 WD45-150217
1957 WD45D-230744D
B110


Posted By: WildBill
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2012 at 1:15pm
Reminds me of our presidential election!! SUCKS . Poor mufflerboltz just trying to take his pulling career to the next level turns into a suicide attempt?? I love my Allis tractors but cannot stand fighting .

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Allis fan for life !   B,C,2-WC'S,WD45G,D19G,190xt ,LLSS 8010, terra tiger refurbished


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2012 at 3:59pm
every distributor cap wouldnt have the brown residue from plasma in it just the ones  sending several joules to the plug and you dont need that unless your running high compression ratios.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: bradley6874
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2012 at 7:54pm
29 post on this subject and 17 by the rob  and ml show sorry mufflerboltz this happens with these two all the time and it was a good topic start a new thread and let them have this one  its a da**  CryCryCry they cant see how frustrating it is

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You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul


Posted By: Mrgoodwrench
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2012 at 7:58pm
Originally posted by mlpankey mlpankey wrote:

every distributor cap wouldnt have the brown residue from plasma in it just the ones  sending several joules to the plug and you dont need that unless your running high compression ratios.
 
 
not sure i understand...how do you have extra spark energy? the spark will just get fatter and brighter blue any why would this "extra" energy end up in the cap? unneeded maybe but i can't see extra


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There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!!


Posted By: Dnoym N. S. Can.
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2012 at 8:12pm
mrgoodwrench  the way i was told a coil will built only
to the point it need to jump the gap in the cap or plug
(plug wire ) no matter how big the coil is .  to make more
fire you need to open up the plug gap.
IMHP
 B:)      Dnoym


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2012 at 7:35pm
Yep the higher energy ignition systems require a larger cap with a wider area between post to keep from cross firing. I am certain the penny pinchers at gm and ford would have not let the engineer waste the material it takes to manufacture the large hei caps if the small caps would have worked seeing you could make three small caps out of the material one hei cap takes

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2012 at 8:07pm
Originally posted by mlpankey mlpankey wrote:

Yep the higher energy ignition systems require a larger cap with a wider area between post to keep from cross firing. I am certain the penny pinchers at gm and ford would have not let the engineer waste the material it takes to manufacture the large hei caps if the small caps would have worked seeing you could make three small caps out of the material one hei cap takes
capacitive discharge systems hit the primary coil with 500 plus volts so the secondary increases voltage to

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: Mrgoodwrench
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2012 at 8:52pm
still don't understand the "brown residue" you're talking about from the added energy. the larger cap is needed to keep from crossfireing  i get that but if the residue is caused by more than needed energy then every 70's hei engine would show it with something like 8:1 and 30,000-50,000v coils 

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There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!!


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2012 at 6:34am
When a electrical arc occurs in free air space the air around the arc is turn to plasma , its a miniture plasma fireball under the cap as one would see on a larger three phase electrical scale when a electrician causes a arc flash in a cabinet that burns three or four electricians in the room around him . Its not caused by needing more energy . Its created by having more energy for the arc to jump a larger gap a msd 6  box on a 10.1 cr can jump a 1/8 inch gap at the plug and without the compression under the distributor cap (free air)it can jump even a larger gap so when you increase the energy the distributor cap size and terminal spacing needs to be increased and a vent in the cap needs to be free of deposits to release the plasma if its occuring if it has one if it dont one will need to make a vent. Go to some local racing event dirt track drag race etc . look at the ignition boxes and distributors and caps . ask why they are running a msd ford cap adapt with adjustable index rotor button.  some will probably say cause everyone else is . monkey see monkey do but for the lead monkey he will have a legitimate reason.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: Rod B
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2012 at 8:28am
I'm going to point out a few things so far overlooked in this topic of HEI ignition. Pankey says to go ahead and use one, but does not say anything about being careful with the timeing of it. He also blew his engine up within 5 runs on the track under load.

What he forgot to do himself or give in his advice to use one is that it's a quick way to over advance the spark curve causeing detonation and bent rods. Lock the vac advance out but compare the cent. mechanism to that of what the OEM has and by setting the static timeing correct the engine will go to far advanced.

Onto more pank drama. But I want you new mwmbers to be aware of potential problems. Some of you should search the archives for a thread from last winter callde Crossbreading by wi50 if you really want to see something.

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for the money there is nothing better than provoking idiots and posers


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2012 at 9:51am
 Rod doesnt point out anything . He doesnt know anything about my engines or any pulling engines. He is a spectator . As for advance I didnt have any mechanical or vacuum it was electronic.  The beauty of a pulling forum is for pullers to tell and show what they have experienced to make fellow allis team pullers and their shelf more competitive. You will see post with rods sticking out of blocks  ,turbos entire blocks ran over by the rear wheels etc.  Pullers know that in the quest to win parts get took to the breaking point. Spectators in the cheap seats look for engine or component problems as a way to bash the rivals of the puller they are fans of. Plain and simple.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: Rod B
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2012 at 10:15am
You finaly admitted as to why you are so jealous of wi50. Go read the crossbreading thread again for yourself pankey and see just how many told you the same thing.

Where's your pulling video you promised us? How many years have you been sitting in the stands and how many more to come?

Take it all with a grain of salt, I'm only demonstrating the same things you do to others.

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for the money there is nothing better than provoking idiots and posers


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2012 at 5:18pm

I havent been in the stands at tractor pulls and my tractor when i pull it makes more than appearances at one goto



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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: WildBill
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2012 at 5:33pm
Post the pictures and video . Us new to the form wanna see. Wi 50 has pics and Charlie 175 has lots of pics. They both impress me . In fact I would like to see your ignition set up ! Pic?

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Allis fan for life !   B,C,2-WC'S,WD45G,D19G,190xt ,LLSS 8010, terra tiger refurbished


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2012 at 10:46am
They are already on the forum in the archives. I can repost but it would be repetitive.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: WildBill
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2012 at 11:41am
If you cannot post the pictures you full of $ hit. !! If I'm looking for advice why would I believe you??? I have nothing to brag about but only trying to learn this great sport . I go to this form to learn and we have to listen to your garbage fighting with fellow pullers. Repetitive is consistant . Post ur pics and prove me wrong .

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Allis fan for life !   B,C,2-WC'S,WD45G,D19G,190xt ,LLSS 8010, terra tiger refurbished


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2012 at 1:34pm
Pictures are in photobucket under pankeyc.i am away and on my phone. There is also a hei a msd 6 box and blaster two that i posted in the classifieds. I run a msd 7box and hv coil with a p1000 pontiac hei modified from a computer controlled p1000 so theres no advance in the disrributmor. Distributor is locked at total timming with msd two step pulling timing if needed.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: WildBill
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2012 at 6:10pm
Thanks Pank when I get home I will check this photobucket and your Allis creation.

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Allis fan for life !   B,C,2-WC'S,WD45G,D19G,190xt ,LLSS 8010, terra tiger refurbished


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2012 at 5:36pm


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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: Rod B
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2012 at 6:26pm
Where can we see that hideous plumbing run in person?

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for the money there is nothing better than provoking idiots and posers


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2012 at 7:53pm
Rod you know that in the archives when picture first posted that plumbing was temporary function trial. After all some was saying the oil pump would blow the oil filter off but it didnt. Its good to have extra oil pressure when doing a competition clearance setup. Dry sump is the only way to go on a rpm turning stroker you wouldnt believe how it scares individuals.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: Mrgoodwrench
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2012 at 8:07pm
hey rod its an old pic who says it runs now

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There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!!


Posted By: Rod B
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2012 at 8:14pm
I know and he avoided my question as to where we can see it run.

His RPM turning stroker was governed at 3000 before someone showed all of us how to turn one hard.

Guy is full of bs.

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for the money there is nothing better than provoking idiots and posers


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2012 at 7:23am
Wild Bill I posted a few pictures again on a few various topics from pulling to farming forum. I wonder when your going to put the challenge out there for Rod to post some. I would like to see some of this mystery pullers pictures as long as they are not from the wi rainbow fan club meetings .If i wanted to see drag i just get on some marti gra louisina fifth quarter site.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: Rod B
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2012 at 8:24am
Last excuse for the hideous plumbing was for drain back. This time for pressure. But it's a stock base which accepts many common filters. Pressure argument is pointless, excesive pressure is only wasted power. With those wide berrings less pressure is needed, they have enough drag the way it is.

Couldn't be much of a stroker with straight cap rods either and a stock oil pan to clear.

Just how excessive of an rpm machine can it be with no safety equipment?

Experience and truth are powerfull allies

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for the money there is nothing better than provoking idiots and posers


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2012 at 8:33am

 drain back occurs in the block and head through the oil ports and gallies . daha . since your not familar with a 226 oil system . the oil pump takes suction from a pickup tube and screen located as close to the bottom of oil pan without touching the oilpan flows through the pump outside the block through the filter and back into locations on the side of the block  where the oil drain oils inside the head and block allow it to drain back to the oil pan. the differences on the one in the picture is it flows from the pump to a two quart cooler out of the cooler to th e filter then into the original side locations on the block and head  then through the original internal locations to drain back into pan. Hope this helps you become a better bs.



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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: D21Puller
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2012 at 6:23pm
Heres some pics of the ignition system we are running, distributor is from a 2.3 litre ford engine commonly used in rangers and mustangs. Pretty simple turned outer housing down in my old lathe then shortened shaft slid gear on and drilled new hole for the roll pin. Then used some wiring from donor vehicle and the ford box. A msd box could just have easily been installed, but we had the ford one. Did away with the vaccum advance and installed light springs on mechanical advance so they would open up sooner. Waaaaayy better than the fairbanks morse mag that was on there. Wc block, 45 crank, flat top pistons, bigger valves in the head.


Posted By: WildBill
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2012 at 6:44pm
Funny you posted that . Was looking at my old engine that was in my mini mod circle track car which was 2.3 . Guess you have that figured out. Nice post d21 puller. Thanks for pic I may contact you for specs . :-)

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Allis fan for life !   B,C,2-WC'S,WD45G,D19G,190xt ,LLSS 8010, terra tiger refurbished


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2012 at 7:01pm
D21 its the same to make the hei work. Just dont have to have the box unless your wanting more spark.   The allis 226 flat cylinder head and flat crank is the automotive rage for 2012/13 but some try to reinvent it to the 80s instead of things that need to be upgraded to the, 980s like ignitions.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: D21Puller
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2012 at 7:27pm
Those parts were laying around the shed, really have nothing invested other than time. The problem i had with pertronix was after a while the pick-up module would quit after it got hot. Then there you are on the phone ordering one and waiting for the man in a brown truck to drop it off. Ford parts are everywhere!!!!!!! Would have used HEI and tried one but the cap will not fit with the aluminum wd-45 or d-17 style distributor housing. Guessing thats why mitch used the delco mag adaptor distributor drive housing.



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