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226 block and crank

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=54234
Printed Date: 15 Nov 2024 at 6:12pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: 226 block and crank
Posted By: nyacdon
Subject: 226 block and crank
Date Posted: 26 Jul 2012 at 10:13am
how much stroke will work in a wd45 and d17 block without grinding? also is there any difference in a 226 leroi clearance either more or less with the 8 inch rods--we have three of these off fox choppers.what can you tell me?



Replies:
Posted By: wi50
Date Posted: 26 Jul 2012 at 10:30am
That will be dependent on the rod used and the crankpin diameter.  But if you're useing stock rods you'll run out of room sooner than canted cap rods with a smaller journal.
 
Also on canted cap rods, there's usually plenty of material to remove.
 
So it's a bit of an open ended question, but if you have stock rods, by 5.25 stroke things may take a little grinding, just guessing.  The Leroi rod may be a little advantage here.
 
If you're welding the crank anyway, use a different rod.  I use some Farmall H and 350 rods time to time and they fit pretty well, and are much stronger than the Allis rods.  Some guys use Buda rods but they bend pretty easy, and are not that strong to start with.  Fine in lower hp applications.  I'll try and narrow rods and berrings also to help keep things stronger.  I used the Farmall rods out to 5.75" stroke in the D-17 block and it gets tight, and takes a lot of cutting.  I've heard of a few guys going to 6" with them, but they also say they'll never do it again.
 
I've seen some differences in the WD-45 blocks, some have a little divit cast under the distributer, which is where things will hit.  I just did one with a 5.375 stroke and the Farmall rods and only had to relieve this a little bit to clear.
 
But some guys go out to 6.25 stroke with lots of clearance and custom rods, small crankpins, etc.  Just depends on how hard someone wants to work, what someone wants to do, and how much you wish to spend.
 


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"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"


Posted By: KGood
Date Posted: 26 Jul 2012 at 10:59am
We went 6.125 stroke on D17 engine. Rod caps are 4 bolt and slanted. I can't remember the journal size right off. We are on the second crank because of rear main breaking so we girdled the mains and have just never put it together yet. Put a turbo diesel in the 17 so not worried about it.


Posted By: farmer_rob
Date Posted: 26 Jul 2012 at 4:43pm
so doing the math that would work out to 308 cubes an increase of 82. just doing that alone what would the troque and hp be??

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if farming was easy everybody would be doing it


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 26 Jul 2012 at 4:50pm
Dont know a 5 3/4 stroke with 1 3/4 journal takes alot of grinding and oil pan rail alteration.i dont recomend anything less than 1.88 rod journal .a 4.125 by 6 320 cubes will.take 14.1 compression with flat tops on 110 octane and make great low end torque

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: Rod B
Date Posted: 26 Jul 2012 at 5:10pm
Originally posted by mlpankey mlpankey wrote:

Dont know a 5 3/4 stroke with 1 3/4 journal takes alot of grinding and oil pan rail alteration.i dont recomend anything less than 1.88 rod journal .a 4.125 by 6 320 cubes will.take 14.1 compression with flat tops on 110 octane and make great low end torque


That's cause you used a straight cap farmall c rod. Broke the crank didn't it. Fixed it with a new crank and broke it again.

It pays to keep a good rod ratio, strong rods and take advice from people who know.

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for the money there is nothing better than provoking idiots and posers


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 26 Jul 2012 at 6:11pm
Only broke one crank it was a 1 3/4 after 5 years of pulling. Rod ratio had nothing to do with the crank twisting into behind the number 4 rod. Stress on crank flange from power did.thats why i tell the truth so i give good advice unlike you who hasnt ever gave truthfull numbers or advice on this site.the broke crank brought home trophies and unloaded itself here before totally dropping flywheel at a angle into starter snout.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 26 Jul 2012 at 7:49pm


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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: KGood
Date Posted: 27 Jul 2012 at 6:50am
I should of mentioned that we run 4.5 inch pistons the rods are hand made everything balanced but had to have a deck plate. Wich is against the rules of our tugger class but nobody noticed. also had to grind parts of cam so rod caps cleared and had to customize oilpan like Pankey mentioned. Ran 2400 RPM's. We ran almost 2 seasons before a rod bearing started knocking and noticed pitting were they built up the crank. Then we put total seal rings then started breaking rear main cap and all down hill from there. I got tired of tearing it apart wasn't to much fun in it anymore. We have a WD running about 283ci and I've never had to tear it down.



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