changing hd5b bullgear axle shaft
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=53236
Printed Date: 24 Jun 2025 at 1:06pm
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Topic: changing hd5b bullgear axle shaft
Posted By: dadsdozerhd5b
Subject: changing hd5b bullgear axle shaft
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2012 at 3:34pm
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nothing better to do on the hottest day of the year. took 4.5 hours to split the track, move the track frame forward, remove outboard bearing(cut off shaft) remove sprocket, shaft and bullgear. reinstalled good shaft, adjusted bearing preload and set sprocket back on. whew, i am tired. need a cooler day to finish. i will post pics once i resize. ------------- HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE. |
Replies:
Posted By: dadsdozerhd5b
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2012 at 3:57pm
homemade pin driver holder. used old bushing welded to track pad. broke off once as hardened pin does not weld well. worked good as i had noone to hold pin while i swung sledge. i don't know why, i am a dead eye. i only missed a few times. lol ------------- HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE. |
Posted By: dadsdozerhd5b
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2012 at 4:20pm
heat, beat, repeat. good workout though. ------------- HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE. |
Posted By: dadsdozerhd5b
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2012 at 4:22pm
this is the reason for the shaft change. no lube on the outboard bearing. shaft was not drilled and no lube since install in 1986. they just don't make em like they used to ------------- HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE. |
Posted By: dadsdozerhd5b
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2012 at 4:24pm
track and frame out of the way. time to remove the outboard bearing and sprocket ------------- HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE. |
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2012 at 4:26pm
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I am headed down this same rough road, no helper to hold the driver rod, thanks for the pics and idea on driver guide. My 7G is a bit different as it has a bolted connection to the shovel support pivot, that one will be a bear to get loose. Looks as you have good pins/bushings, not much slack or gapping between the shoes. I have a take out final sitting on a skid awaiting time and energy.
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Posted By: dadsdozerhd5b
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2012 at 4:26pm
shaft shot so i used the hot wrench. neat smoke while cutting. ------------- HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE. |
Posted By: dadsdozerhd5b
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2012 at 4:28pm
sprocket was loose so it almost fell off once i removed the nut. removed the lock ring and seal retainer and with the help of my trusty forklift, shaft came out. woo hoo! ------------- HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE. |
Posted By: dadsdozerhd5b
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2012 at 4:32pm
out with the old, in with the new. good shaft in and ready for retainer and seal. i got seal in and it was getting closr to 100 degrees so i had enough before the heart attack set in. now to finish with the sprocket and outboard bearing, change the rollers, free uyp the adjuster, change the tracks, it never ends. sad part is the outboard bearing is shot on the other side. i just hope the shaft is still good. in fact i prayn the shaft is good. ------------- HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE. |
Posted By: dadsdozerhd5b
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2012 at 4:33pm
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sorry for the multiple replies to post all the pics but i do not know how to put multiple pics on the same reply. what do i do once the pic is uploaded to be able to keep writing? ------------- HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE. |
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2012 at 4:35pm
| Not much other than what you are doing, otherwise the writing gets pieced out thru the photos. Looks like a good job so far! Could save the sprocket for the ring as the teeth don't appear too worn. |
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2012 at 4:36pm
| Sometimes a Gas Axe is the best tool for the conditions! |
Posted By: dadsdozerhd5b
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2012 at 4:41pm
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dmiller, pins and bushings need a turn but i have a better set than these. this set the rails are worn on the sides and they come off easy on the side hills. coke talked about cutting the track frame to remove the sprocket after making a line up jig so you do not have to remove that pin. i have a hd5g and would not like to have to remove that pin. the track frame is cut just in front of the outboard bearing to give enough clearance for the sprocket to come off. a bar drilled through and bolted to the track frame to hold it in place to reweld it would work well. not sure if i explained it correctly. ------------- HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE. |
Posted By: dadsdozerhd5b
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2012 at 4:42pm
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dmiller, did you get new inboard seals or are you reusing old ones? ------------- HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE. |
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2012 at 5:00pm
| I managed to find ONE new seal assembly, shop in CA had it. The shaft I picked up shows no signs of leakage and I may leave it assembled to try as is as the 7G used a 'Live Seal" guess all AC's did. May as well try it first as is, once dissassembled should be easier to pull second time and as I could only find one new want to try to save it for that rainy day when one will not seal up. |
Posted By: HD6 Merv
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2012 at 5:33pm
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Good pics and story boys. heat might be bad, but at least you get to cool off with beer, well if its me thats what would happen ! gotta be better than working in rain and mud ! And thanfully will never have to contend with snow in my part of the world ! cheers ------------- tits tyres and tracks they all cost you money |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2012 at 7:46pm
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Take and drill and tap that outboard bearing for a grease zerk , seem a lot of them done that way after bearing failure , those outboard bearings are Link-Belt Bearings and are hard to come by also Spherical double row (inner/outer) roller bearing. Like you mentioned on the 5G I made a plate and drilled and tapped the frame rail to accept the plate , then removed and cut the frame , did work then bolted the frame back into position , then welded frame back . removed plate and plugged the tapped holes. Saved removing the full loader to do track work. ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: dadsdozerhd5b
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2012 at 7:36am
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the cover plates for the outboard bearings are tapped and plugged for greasing but the dozer pivot covered them so i did not know they were there. i am drilling the pivot block to allow access to the fittings. i am going to use john deere corn head grease which is very thin, 00 or 000 grade, liquifies when warm but solidifies when cool. tried it on a few bearings with good results. i am going to use it on the rollers also. has anyone run into idlers without grease fitings? i am contemplating drilling a hole into the center of the idler and putting in a grease fitting after the outboard bearing issue. in would rather prevent than repair. ------------- HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE. |
Posted By: Mactractor
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2012 at 4:55pm
| Have not yet seen greased idlers. as long as the seals retained the oil (were not used to spool up your fence wire), they were ok. The problem with the outboard bearings on the sprocket shaft was the small slit along the shaft designed to carry final drive lube to the bearings was not carrying anywhere near enough lube to them. I pump truckwheel/roller grease into them through the zerks. It is thin grease and has no additives that will not be compatable with the final drive oil. The grease will eventually work its way along the shaft slit to the final drive. Give that some thought when you choose a grease for those bearings Mac |
Posted By: dadsdozerhd5b
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2012 at 5:26pm
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one of my idlers has a grease plug like the rollers but the other does not. it hink in will drill it and get some grease in it while i have it apart. ------------- HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 16 Jul 2012 at 7:05pm
What I do is type any letter hit enter twice and repeat as many times as you might want pictures. Then go back between the first to letters on the empty line and post your picture. This way you can type your description of the pictures in between after loading the pictures. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
dadsdozerhd5b wrote: