in-frame overhaul for D grader
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49142
Printed Date: 23 Jun 2025 at 5:48pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: in-frame overhaul for D grader
Posted By: krusty
Subject: in-frame overhaul for D grader
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2012 at 2:41pm
Hi gang,
My new D burns a bit of oil when running and want to put new rings in it. I have only rebuilt engines that have been completely removed and rebored. Nothing with sleeves. From a process/effort perspective this seems much more palatable and of course cheaper.
I see kits with new pistons & sleeves etc and was wondering what the effort is to remove sleeves? I am still looking to procure the service manual but dropping the oil pan seems pretty reasonable. How the heck does one get the sleeves out? I could turn a hardwood drift to drive them out if needed too.
Krusty,
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Replies:
Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2012 at 7:10pm
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Is it a 226 gas engine? If it is the sleeves are wet type with an O ring at the bottom. they come out fairly easily. After the first couple inches they are loose. One thing to look at is the front and rear crank seals, if they are leaking I would pull the engine and do the rest like cam bushings- main bearings - crank seals. To me pulling the engine and working on it is easier than doing it in the macine.
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Posted By: krusty
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2012 at 8:38pm
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Ya it is a 226. I am torn about spending the time to do it properly or just doing a quick and dirty for now to stop the oil burning. Seems I may have a lead on a 226 replacement engine I could drop in for now and then rebuild this one properly. That would be my ideal.
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Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2012 at 10:26pm
dont waste your time putting rings in it.. the kits are readily available and your going to be into it nearly as far as a complete rebuild anyway. a hard block of wood should get the sleeves out.. if not a metal rod can be used as your not reusing the sleeves anyway... just be carefuld of the crankshaft and the under side of the block where the sleeves come through
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Posted By: DonBC
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2012 at 9:55am
I agree with the consensus that if you are going to change rings you are better off to do a total rebuild. When I got my D grader it was running poorly (big understatement). I did pull the head off to take a look and determined it should have new sleeves. I decided to close it up and run it until I had enough money to do a total rebuild. I did have the head worked on as it had a couple of burnt exhaust valves, the rocker shaft was broken and one rocker shaft support had been broken and brazed together. I still haven't rebuilt the engine and it still smokes, goes through oil and fouls #4 plug now and then but it still has lots of power. I hope that I can do the rebuild within the next year.
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Jack of all trades, master of none
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Posted By: ron mi
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2012 at 1:06pm
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Hi Don, Cut about one quater of an inch of windsheild wiper washer hose and slip it over the spark plug metal cap, make sure the wire does not touch the spark plug. You want the spark to jump from wire to plug. About a sixteenth. Works wonders in keeping plugs from fowling out. Ron Finney
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Posted By: DonBC
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2012 at 12:13am
Ron, I had discovered this concept years ago when I had a twin cylinder snowmobile and one cylinder would often foul when I first started it up. I would pull the plug wire off and hold it a small distance off the plug until it warmed up and it began to fire normally and then I would put the wire back on the plug. I have often done this with my grader in the past to clear up the fouled plug but I only did it intermittently and then put the wire back on the plug. I have done two things that have helped. I put in shorter plugs which seems to keep them from fouling as badly and I installed electronic ignition which seems to have a hotter spark.
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Jack of all trades, master of none
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Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2012 at 7:33am
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Going to the next hotter plug in series for the manufacturer you are using also helps to keep them from fouling as fast.
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Posted By: krusty
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2012 at 3:21pm
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Looks like I may have found a donor engine that I can swap in that is a reasonable price. Then I can take my time and do a proper rebuild....thx for the comments!
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Posted By: Ages Cat
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2012 at 10:20am
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Several summers ago I removed the engine from an AC615 industrial, again. The previous owner had put a sleeve kit in the engine, ground the valves, but did nothing with the crank or its seals. When I finished restoring the tractor, the front and rear main leaked. I removed the engine and replaced the front and rear crank seals. Now it works as it should. Every time I assume that something will be OK, it is not. Listening to the little voice regarding what should be done to a machine always works.
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