8070 got hot fast
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=47270
Printed Date: 29 Aug 2025 at 3:24pm
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Topic: 8070 got hot fast
Posted By: darrel in ND
Subject: 8070 got hot fast
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2012 at 8:58pm
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I finally got my 2 year long project 8070 running the other day. I ran it for 5 to 10 minutes in the shop just for trial before putting the shields and stuff on it, and the heat guage moved off the cold side just enough to give me an indication that it works. Today I was going to put it to a light test, so I hooked the disc up to it. It was probably running for about 15 minutes by the time I got the disc hooked up and ready to give it a whirl. At this time the heat gauge was just up to the first mark. As soon as I started discing, the heat gauge started climbing very fast. I hadn't even gotten an eighth of a mile, and I had to stop and shut er down, cause the heat gauge was brushing up against the red. It definitly was not getting over worked, cause it was just playing with the disc. The engine I put into the tractor is used one out of a 7580, and if I remember right had about 800 hours on a major overhaul. It had been sitting for a few years, though, before I bought it. The radiator is a fresh re-cored one, so is to say "Just like brand new." When it over-heated, the top of the radiator, the upper radiator hose, and the thermostat housing were all very hot. The bottom of the radiator and the lower radiator hose were colder than a cucumber. The possibility that the gauge isn't reading right is real, but doubtful, because things seemed pretty hot. Thermostats were not changed, so it is possible they are stuck shut, but I doubt it, because it was hot on both sides of them. I don't know if that is an accurate assessment of them, though. Anyone have any ideas for me to check out? Thanks, Darrel
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Replies:
Posted By: Unit3
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2012 at 9:23pm
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Check the therostats first. Did a hose shrink up stopping the flow? In a hotrod show I saw a new Ford motor over heat. They had an air bubble in the head that did not work its way out. They had a hard time of it but, it finally came out and sprayed anti-freeze all over when it did.
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Posted By: ron nca
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2012 at 10:05pm
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Darrel i would say take the thermostats out an put then in hot water an see if they open, that wont coust much if they open . Ron nca
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Posted By: Richardmo
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2012 at 10:16pm
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when i put my case 730 it was doing the same thing i though the thermstat was bad.
I did what Ron said i put in water heated it up it open.
I found what the problem was it was air locked and the water never reach the thermstat and it would not open i had to bleed the air out till reach the thermstat this did fix my problem
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Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2012 at 10:27pm
is the lower hose clogged? maby the radiator has a rag or plug in the suction side. sounds like the thermostats are opening or the rad would not be hot at the top. sounds to me like there is no circulation. i would check for blockages or as previously mentioned, air pocket.
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Posted By: Amos
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 6:02am
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My 8010 would run right over to the right side of the red when we got it, good rad good thermostats could not figure it out. Put foam on top of the rad and underneath it to seal off the hot air from recirculating back to the front of the rad and it went to running right on the first line of the gage. My 210 would run up to 220 when working in the warm weather did that for years, had given up trying to find the problem, the water pump bearing went out of it and when I took the pump off the impeller was like 3/16" away from the housing, set the new one at what the spec came with the rebuild kit said (I think it is like .040) and it rarely ever flirts with 200 degrees in the hot summer days. I wonder if one thermostat is opening and not the other or your foam is gone.
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Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 6:19am
I hate to jump on the band wagon, but I think what you have is a thermostat that is not opening all the way up, if it opens a crack you will get a hot upper hose, and top tank, but you will not get enough flow to do anything. Also like Amos said, make sure all the foam is in the right place.
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Still in use:
HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060
Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7
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Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 7:58am
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I think I'll change out the thermostats this morning and try that. I did pull the lower radiator hose off to check for restrictions, and it had none. I've got a brand new foam sealer on the top of the radiator, but is there supposed to be foam on the hood side panels, also? Our 8050 didn't have any and it never ran hot. Also, the bottom quarter section of my shroud is missing, but that should not make it heat up that fast. By the way, if some one has the bottom section of the shroud for sale off of a parts tractor or something, I'd be interested in buying it. Thanks, Darrel
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Posted By: Dale Hardtke
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 8:13am
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Check for nest building materials that mice could have put up inside the block & head water passages. You mentioned the motor had been stored for some time. Was it stored removed from the tractor?? With rad. hoses removed??
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Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 8:48am
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Consider vacuum filling the cooling system. There are a couple versions of the "Air Lift". As difficult as the automakers have made it to get all of the air out, the air lift is one of those tools that once you use it, you'll never go back to the other way. The way it works is you start with a drained system. The tool fits in the radiator neck and uses compressed air to pull a vacuum on the system. There is a hose on the tool that you stick in a bucket of coolant. Once you've pulled all the air out, open the valve and the vacuum pulls the coolant in leaving no air pockets anywhere.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 3:43pm
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I'm still stumped. I put new thermostats in today, and that didn't help a bit. When the engine water temp is bordering on overheating, the whole radiator is plum cold. I put a hose on the pad-cock on the bottom of the radiator to drain the coolant into jugs, and the first 4 gallons out were cold, then it turned so hot you couldn't hardly hold the hose for the rest of it. I've checked for restrictions in both the upper and lower radiator ports and hoses, and they seem fine. One thing that I have not done is to get coolant circulating through the heater core, because the temp control slide is stuck on cold position. Could that make an air-lock that won't give up until I have the heater core circulating, too? I really don't know what to check for next. It is possible that mice got a nest built in the engine somewhere, but I wouldn't know where. When I bought the engine, I thought everything opening was plugged, and I would hope that the guy who put the engine in took all of the plugs out! The thought of running it over a cliff has crossed my mind, But I couldn't do that to something orange. Hope there is some under-lying problem that I'll laugh about a year from now, Darrel
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Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 4:36pm
the water pump is apparently not pumping anything. Mice could have built nest in it, or the impeller shaft could be spinning inside the impeller. good luck! Ed.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Posted By: ALLISMAN32
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 7:56pm
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Check for a plug stuck inside the lower inlet side of water pump neck. Left a plug in a customers D-14 in my youth had the same symptoms as you describe. Those guys were really mad at me when they finally figured it out! Learned the hard way to always check holes for plugs.
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Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 9:21pm
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Leave one thermostat out to see if will circulate. Be sure to put it back in before you finish your project and put it back in service. MACK
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Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2012 at 1:32am
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MACK, I pulled one thermostat today, ran it for a good long time and it stayed well below normal operating temperature. Then I drained just enough coolant to put the thermostat back in, refilled the rad, and ran it again. Once again, the temp gauge was heading straight for the red zone. Any ideas what I should do next? Thanks, Darrel
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2012 at 5:48am
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Install a manual temp gauge (like a D17) and hang it from the left cab headlight by the door and compare what it says to the one in the dashboard. There are a couple of un-used pipe plugs on the thermostat housing to get tapped into for this test. If you have never vomited coolant from the overflow, it probably isn't hot.
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Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2012 at 6:14am
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If it ran cool with one thermostat out and hot with both in I would say it is not getting hot ( funkey gauge).
You said you could barley hold the hose to drain it. 110 degrees is about as hot as the human hand can stand. So my guess is it isn't as hot as gauge shows.
I use a hand helt radar gun to check temp. It will tell temp. any where you point it.
Hope this will correct your problem. MACK
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Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2012 at 8:28am
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I will put a number gauge in and see where I am at. I may feel pretty stupid if it is not really getting that hot. I'll get back to you with my findings. Thanks, Darrel
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Posted By: randy
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2012 at 9:03am
I have used a laser therometer to check the block temp and the radiator, and double check the temp gauge. Got one on sale at harbor freight, it's close enough to check for hot spots.
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CA WD WD45 D17 D17 Diesel 7060 8050 8070
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Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2012 at 9:54am
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Well, that problem is solved, and we'll just say "I feel stupid!" (note to self; step one in overheating problem. Always double check the heat gauge. You may not even have a problem.) But now it's on to the other 50 blankety blank problems that have surfaced. The front wheel assist doesn't work, and the steering cylinder has about an inch of play in it from the ends being wollered out, air conditioner; well God only knows what all that needs. I would guess that the front wheel assist issue; just start at the switch and keep going form there, and hope it's not internal. Thanks for all the help guys, Darrel
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Posted By: MI8050
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2012 at 10:32am
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On my 8050, I had it split to fix some seals, when it came back the 4wd wouldn't go on. The wire was off the shift solenoid on the side of the trans. I was relieved!
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Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2012 at 12:44pm
I did the same thing replaced the thermostats on my 7050 a couple years ago. I thought I could hear it boiling in the block so since it was easy I put stats in. Funky gauge was the problem. I should have known better being a former mechanic. Of course I was a mechanic for only 4 years about 20 years ago before getting a factory job then partsman, yada yada yada.
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