2 down, 2 to go....LONG
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=47221
Printed Date: 29 Aug 2025 at 5:48pm
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Topic: 2 down, 2 to go....LONG
Posted By: Eldon (WA)
Subject: 2 down, 2 to go....LONG
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2012 at 10:23pm
Did the RH side brakes on my 175D this afternoon...thought I had seen the worst that could be, but oh no.......This one, the spring pin for the 3pt cylinder pin was broken off! The hydraulic valve assy bracket was almost rusted in half, so I decided to take the assy off instead of tying it back. That came off ok. Since the pin was rusted in the cylinder, I had to take the pin out at the lift arm, and remove the hose and fitting from the cylinder in order to get the final drive off. The brake adjusting rod was froze up, so I had to take the cylinder bracket off to get the lower pin out, which means the cylinder has to come off. Got the final drive off, then went to work on the broken spring pin. I was able to take a punch and get it part way out, but it bottomed out on the bracket, so I needed to rotate the pin (which was froze in place). Time for some heat, a big hammer, PB blaster and a wedge. I drove the pin in with a big hammer, then used a wedge to drive it back...about 1/8" back and forth...many times! Finally was able to rotate the pin with a visegrip and drive the springpin out. More driving in, wedging out and the pin finally came out. Removed cylinder. Now for that dang 12pt bolt that holds the cylinder bracket on. I split an 11/16 socket on the other side.....and forgot to get another one. Found that my Craftsman combo wrench and hammer works just as well....as long as you use lots of heat. Heated the small top pin at the same time. Got the bracket off. Small pin still won't rotate with vise grips, so more heat. Also heat lower pin till Orange. Unhook brake rod from pedal. Try small pin again and this time it rotates a little...apply pb blaster. Get my 1/2" puller bolt around for the bottom pin. Pin slides right out :-) surprise, surprise! Get top pin out. Snake brake bands and rod out the top. Heat threaded end of rod to orange. Clean mouse nest and assorted seeds out of brake housing. Get the 185 final drive on the cherry picker. (I decided to use the 185 finals out of a parted tractor since the lower seals were both out of the 175 finals and they were noisy). Put 185 final on tractor and checked the "critical dimension" Removed final drive and added .005 shim. Freed up brake rod and cleaned up threads. Removed differential bearing plate, cleaned it as well as the shims, installed new axle seal, O-ring and put sealant on the bolts. Reinstalled in tractor. Assembled new brake bands, used anti-seize on pins. Installed brake actuator rod with anti-sieze. Installed cylinder bracket with anti-seize on bolts (hope it helps if there is a next time). Installed final drive w/brake drum. Adjusted brake pedal free play to 2 1/2". Only 5.5 hours ticked off the clock......hopefully this will be the toughest one I ever see! Another 175D and D17 SIV to go!
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Replies:
Posted By: Eldon (WA)
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2012 at 10:31pm
P.S. This is probably pretty confusing unless you have done one of these tractors.....
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Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2012 at 10:36pm
Eldon I'm going to start calling you the "Spokane Brake Dancer"! lol
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2012 at 5:59am
With all that you made good time. I used to do brakes on those tractors back at the Allis dealership but I never had that much seized up. Usually just the brake rods but those tractors had 20 years less time on them then yours.
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Wink
I am a Russian Bot
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Posted By: TexasAllis
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2012 at 6:28am
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I remember my dad working on tractor brakes at his dealership when I was a kid. Most of the tractors had so much grease and oil on them in the rear they had to drop all the pins and bolts in the parts washer to clean them up. They finally bought a hot water pressure washer and cleaned the tractors up before they worked on them. I cleaned a lot of them and easily spent an hour or more on one tractor.
Eldon, maybe you need to cause a few oil leaks to keep all the pins and bolts well lubed.
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1944 Allis C
1960 Allis D-17 LP
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Posted By: JoeO(CMO)
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2012 at 8:21am
Eldon, you did good. BTDT
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Posted By: Eldon (WA)
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2012 at 10:49pm
Well 6 hours today putting on the cylinder, removing a twisted off bolt for the fender mount, and replacing the hydraulic mounting plate...then I find out the height position control isn't working at all. Also found out that if the bolt head on the power adjust clamps is crossways it will break off the stud on the upper final drive cover.....oh well. Moved on to my "good" 175 and it was even more of a pain than the last! Spring clip was also broke off...and the cylinder wouldn't clear the flange on the final for some reason...wound up using a jack to force the final drive out! Then I found a torn up brake drum and a pile of filings under it....more fun tomorrow.
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Posted By: captaindana
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 5:41am
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Eldon you have the patience of a Saint! I feel those brake jobs are relly tough jobs, especially when tackled alone! Great work!
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Posted By: skipwelte
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 7:53am
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Sounds like Murphys Law is in effect at your place Eldon!!!! I used to work for Murphy Tractor and Equipment so I can relate very well. Hang in there!!!
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Posted By: Eldon (WA)
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 10:30am
Captain I'd still take brake work over what you went thru with the 190 :-)
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